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aa/fd

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Everything posted by aa/fd

  1. aa/fd
    Fish that is quite amazing an old Russ Collins Honda distributor drive. Last time I saw one of those (really three) was on his T/F Drag Bike The three engined beast was nicknamed "Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe" running at Ontario Motor Speedway in the 70's. Back to the distributor, if your selling post it here on the FAQ. Personally I'd use it, they are very nice parts. If I hadn't ordered a 8473 MSD 2.3 Ford Pro Billet to perform Fish's conversion I'd be all over it.
  2. aa/fd
    Oh boy the "buy a car get a check" Lee Iacocca days of Chrysler. What a great leader, gets a bailout from the government and pays it back. Saved Chrysler, The Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island and countless UAW jobs. Wisely turned down a shot at the oval office. Iacocca was a huge fan of Shelby during his Ford tenure. Rightfully so, he won everything in site with his cobras and the GT40 program. Somebody had to shine up the minivan and "K cars" image so he hired his old friend Shelby to give the Dodge Omni some much needed stripes, wide tires, an HP boost, and some prestige.
  3. aa/fd
    Fishhead, I applaud the innovation and endorse the Mallory choice as the advance curve adjustments are quite simple.
  4. aa/fd
    "jimk" has it correct, it is a standard procedure used by old aircraft mechanics and racers for setting mag timing with a "buzzer" prior to starting a new or serviced assembly. I will add one other guide, hold the rotor against rotation removing lash. When the light goes out or the buzzer quits release the rotor and it will resume, indicating your right on the mark with the point opening. Following this procedure will give you perfect initial timing at what ever position the crank is set to.
  5. aa/fd
    Just a word to the wise, castings give varying results during the anodizing processes. The inclusions/porosity can show up as pitting or spots. Color Anodizing is generally used for forged and extruded aluminum alloys. We have used Hard Anodizing for cast pump housings where appearance is secondary. Your local metal finisher will be able to advise you as to the success and or risk in trying to color anodize your aluminum casting. We have used Protective Coatings in Kent, WA. for years. They are B.A.C. contractors so they are reluctant, but will still take on our small automotive projects.
  6. aa/fd
    Yep, there is " I've heard " and then there is " I've done " Stock cast pistons will take a lot more than you guys give them credit for, after 2 years of beating on an unknown mileage motor somewhere between 20-25 PSI daily I took it apart and there wasn't a damn thing wrong with the pistons. Well I believe I fit in the "I've done" category and I would never advocate a cast piston in any friends supercharged engine, just my opinion which is ok by me. People like me see 25lbs was good than 35lb must be better and if it lives at 35 than 45 must be better yet. There are a lot of factory turbo-ed motors with forged piston and production will not be allowed to install a more expensive part unless it can be justified to accounting. There are very talented people than can make a lot of parts survive that most can not, but I always like to error on the side of having an extra margin of safety and reliability, it is way cheaper to do it right the first time. You want to see boost come visit me at Pacific Raceways this morning.
  7. aa/fd
    I would suggest using forged pistons on any supercharged application, castings no matter the source, are just not up to the task.
  8. aa/fd
    Just a thought on the same issue. I had a cheap import induction timing light, the type that just clamps over the plug wire. Anyway the 6A MSD box drove it crazy and it flashed intermittently and randomly. I check all the covered issues and even vented the cap suspecting crossfire from ozone buildup. Finely I thought maybe the timing light was malfunctioning as the ignition trace looked good on a oscilloscope, so I dug out my old 1968 era Sears Penske in line timing light, had to fab a plug to slide in the cap and plug the wire into. Like magic the flash was rock steady, it actually motivated me to index the front pulley and now I don't have to find the BB
  9. aa/fd
    Here is a segment from a tech article in Circle Track Magazine. It pretty well explains the two and their functions. "New racers often confuse scrapers and windage trays, but they perform quite different functions. At high rpm, oil tends to "rope" or wind around a crankshaft, causing power losses. A scraper is a precisely shaped piece of sheet metal that normally attaches at the pan rail and uses narrow slots that allow the crank's counterweights to spin past without contacting the scraper. The scraper catches oil off the crank and allows it to drain into the bottom of the pan. A windage tray normally separates the crank from the pan sump almost completely. It allows what drains into the pan to access the sump (either through shaped louvers or a screen), but makes it difficult for that oil, once it is in the sump, to splash back onto the crank."
  10. aa/fd
    Well I will take the other position as I most always replace all fasteners in an engine build anyway. I would replace the cap screws with a stud and nut for the pan rail, it just makes for a much "cleaner assembly". Your kit is using the preferred flanged serrated lock nuts, and I can't see clearly but it looks like the studs could be broached for an "Allen" wrench for installation. If there is no shoulder (no thread area) to locate the stud, and your pan rail holes are open and not blind you will need to select shouldered, like ARP studs. Don't forget to lock-tite the studs into the block.
  11. aa/fd
    Milodon still packages Vac-U-Pan parts, Chrysler Oil Separator, GM Diverter Valve, and a piece of 1/2 pipe. Milodon Vac-U-Pan
  12. aa/fd
    This is all speculation, but you like I assume that an oil hole for each would be a proper design. But sometimes in application even the best engineered designs have to change. It could be as simple as the small holes like you suggested might clog too easy and if they were large enough to not clog they might flow too much. I essence too big a leak for the oil pump at idle. Another reason might be fewer holes cost less to make. Bean counters always win when you are over budget. The design obviously took a change for cost issues, as the crimped design would be cheaper to manufacture than the tube with the swedged plug. Could be as simple as the low bidder won the new contract for supplying spray bars. Interesting and somewhere in Germany a retired production manager in charge of M10 engine assemblies knows the answer.
  13. aa/fd
    There is a reason people spend a lot of money on light weight clutch assemblies and flywheels. First off they are much safer at high speed (7500+) Second the engine is more responsive to the throttle revs quicker and slows quicker. The stored energy of the heavy wheel helps make it more "streetable" like in starting off from a hill. But if combined with a short gear a 10 to 12lb wheel is very usable. If your engine has a cam with no low end, you might see some added disk wear but not too bad. Personally I prefer a heavy wheel as the dampening effect smooth out the natural vibrations that come with four cylinder engines, and the drive-ability is better.
  14. aa/fd
    My Tii has a "tee" in the vent line from the rocker box to the air cleaner, with the small 1/8 hose attached to the bottom of the throttle body. This factory system works just OK. The oil separator in the cover is not adequate to keep oil from accumulating in the air cleaner, not much but not acceptable in my opinion. A revision floating around in my head is to make the hose from the air cleaner a vent (air in) eliminate the "tee" Run the port from the throttle body to a PCV to a oil fill cap revised to accept a large Mopar type oil separator, and to take crank case venting to the next level, maybe even tee it to a GM type deverter valve inserted at the "y" or collector in the exhaust. The PCV's are a metered vacuum leak and they work very well in getting your throttle plates closed back up when using long duration (low vacuum) cams. So if you are fighting the big cam idle woes, it is a good tool to get the plates off the transfer slot and back in position where the idle mixture is adjustable. The lower the crankcase pressure the more power the engine makes. Negative pressure increases oil control, aids ring seal and just makes for a happier engine because lube oil detonates at will. So when I see oil in the intake side of my engine because the venting system is not adequate, I see free power.
  15. aa/fd
    Big Dog under 10% is where I like to see motors after use. If the short block is properly prepared it will leak the best on the engine stand and diminish with use. Valve lash will not effect leakage values unless there is no clearance. Valve lash can like cam timing effect compression test numbers but you would have to again have no clearance (valve open) or .100 lash to see it. To grasp the 7 to 10 clearance impact set the lash at .010 then rotate the crank to the point where it has .007 clearance. It won't be much but the lesson is you can impact the cam timing with a valve adjustment.
  16. aa/fd
    Brian, one thing you might want to start at the beginning, it hasn't run since 96. I would in this order (1) valve adjust (2) align distributor at TDC (both valves #1 cylinder have lash) and all timing, including FI, marks aligned (3) compression test (4) ignition, has spark, points set, plugs good condition, wires correct (5) fuel delivery, cold start works obviously, fuel at each injector, crack fitting see fuel leak when spinning engine over (6) start car after resolving issues found
  17. aa/fd
    In my experience if the clamping force of the eight bolts are not securing the flywheel in an indexed position as indicated by the bolt locations. Then there is larger issue, old bolts, improper torque, balance issue, or hole condition (oblong or damaged worn surface) those ring dowels are not strong enough to do anything other than locate the flywheel for installation. Flywheels have more movement than you think, and is the main reason crank triggers are on the front hub. Remember Loc-Tite, antisize and different type oil all affect torque values. Know what you are using is correct.
  18. aa/fd
    Well with a pulley change, an inter-cooler, and a decent electronic engine management system, it would come to life in a hurry. Street rodders never really had an affinity for GMC 671 Blowers until EFI systems matured. Nothing compares to a properly prepared, positive displacement supercharged engine for drivablity.
  19. aa/fd
    The Bellville spring fingers have to be the same height. I don't know the lever ratio of the Sachs but they will need to move equally when compressed, if not the clutch is bad. Either the shoe is broken as TobyB says, the spring is dead, the disk is measurably thinner (.100) on one side, or the cover is not flat on the flywheel (hanging on the dowels or bent) Regardless of the cause the fingers need to be the same height. I will never accept a clutch out of the box with random lever heights, they don't fix them selves.
  20. aa/fd
    I was thinking on the same line a larger bore master would make the bleeding and adjustment less critical. A little more pedal effort, oh well just a thought.
  21. aa/fd
    Remember have compressor evenly and piston assembly lined up square to the bore, install with one firm stroke on the piston. I use a large dead blow and drive with the handle. My preffered compressors are as follows: Tapered ring, size specific Heavy Gauge Band with the locking pliers type handle, KD tools I think Thin wind up steel band is the last choice and not a good option
  22. aa/fd
    I am guessing, but I would venture to say the pad is induction hardened, difficult to tell as the shoot peen surface is very uniform. I don't think the weight will be a factor we never saw a difference to speak of in V8 apps where endurance mandated steel Norris or Harland Sharp rockers over aluminum Cranes or BRC's, but then again we limited the engine speed also so a true A/B test only was seen on the dyno pulls.
  23. aa/fd
    The chop saw is best, I use duct tape or (preferred) masking tape on the cut area. Clean any hangers (wire strands) at the bench grinder as they are very difficult to trim with dikes or cutters. Make sure the end is a nice square cut. With the 601/701 (rubber) types assemble the sleeve on to the hose, clamp the hose end in to a fixture (vise) lube threads and hose, screw the hose on to the hose end. Mark the hose with a sharpie so you can tell how far the sleeve has pulled down during assembly. !VERY IMPORTANT! This will tell you how much the cutter has penetrated the rubber !VERY IMPORTANT! I would advise you to not try the Teflon type as they are high pressure application (brake lines) and can put you in harms way if they fail. If you can do double flare on brake pipe you can most likely handle this type hose. If you doubt you abilities have the hoses pressure tested at your local hydraulic shop
  24. aa/fd
    I generally do not put anything into aluminum without some type of lube. In this case I used anti seize, the silver stuff. Because these injectors will be in there a long time with a remote possibility of being removed at anytime, it just makes good sense. The copper washers are good until they become hard, but they are cheap so replacing them is a no brainier.
  25. aa/fd
    People will not see 1 or 2 degrees in their buttometer dyno. Having to retard cam timing for best power is indicative of the a less than ideal profile being used for the application, or too short intake port overall. But yes retard at high speed will show pluses in a narrow region, but can damper mid-range. A basic cam drive fact is, the longer the chain the further it retards itself at speed. The 427 SOHC Ford had really long chain (10ft) and needed the right bank advanced 12 degrees to run and measure the same as the left, which needed to be about 4 ahead to register +zero BTDC at speed We have found valve timing from front to back of the engines can be different at speed too, our 8 cylinder work has found considerable deflection at #8 We specify our cams for those engines with the rear lobes advanced tapering to the front at zero
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