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tjones02

Solex
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Everything posted by tjones02

  1. US ‘91 318i 4dr’s came standard with these steel wheels and full hubcaps.
  2. Either 185/65-14 or 195/60-14, the 185/60 is too short.
  3. I always try to use new pinch lock nuts and check to be sure the bolts are the correct type. I try not to use nyloc nuts as these tend to back off. I also never Loctite them, because if they are at the proper torque, all the hardware is correct, and everything is in balance, the nuts shouldn’t come loose. I must’ve replaced hundreds of giubos in my life as a mechanic, on all sorts of BMWs, Mercedes, etc., and never had one nut back off, unless the giubo failed for other reasons.
  4. Oh yeah, they really only fit with stockish tires and wheels. I usually adjust rear drums with the wheel off and with the drum bolted down. Some even have cut centers out of wheels to bolt on when adjusting the rear drums.
  5. I have a Stalwille 12714 version that I bought new some twenty five ish years ago when they we still available new. There’s a different looking Hazet or Stahlwille version from the sixties and seventies that looks more like a well made forged wrench than a bent piece of flat steel.
  6. If you find the VIN of any of your dad’s old cars, most states will tell you if it’s registered in their state, and many times what city it’s registered in. They can’t legally give you the owner’s name and address, but there are other ways of finding them once you know the city. I or others here can help once you find the city. Happy hunting!
  7. I used a hair dryer and glued a piece of leather to my pry bar to keep from gauging the axle when stretching the boot over it. Other than very old high mileage and or rusty ones, I have not seen much if any wear in the needle bearings or u-joints. Simply disassemble and re-grease and re-oil as needed. No more than 180cc of gear oil in the boot side, with only enough grease to hold the needles in place for assembly…. Follow the repair manual instructions.
  8. If you knew the car Barrett is working on, you would not want to “upgrade” any of the parts to newer versions. It ain’t just any ol’ early ‘02.? While I fully understand that you’re just trying to help, please don’t assume that every’02 must be updated and modified, or that everyone should do so. It’s not always the right thing do do.
  9. Fred Freihofner at Wolfgang’s Foreign Car Services in Walnut Creek is a shop I would recommend. I’ve known Fred and family for some 25 years. He’s as honest as they come. Wolfgang's Foreign Car Service WWW.WOLFGANGSWC.COM
  10. So, so cool that you’ve kept it all these years. I wonder how many original owners are still out there? It’d be cool to have a SIG just for ‘02 original owners and family owned cars.
  11. Nate Smith’s Optimal Auto Care is the local Santa Cruz shop that many friends have taken their cars to over the years. Or, I can sometimes be convinced to travel down that way to do a PPI, if it’s made to be worth my time. ?
  12. For the most part I’ve seen nearly all very early and US market ‘02s have their color stickers above the riveted on VIN plate. Whereas most European market ones had it on the leading edge of the fender. Some US cars were stickered on backwards days.
  13. Keep in mind that all NKs have the engine further forward than that in the ‘02 chassis. Thus, the late NK engine mount brackets keep the engine further forward while utilizing the ‘02 subframe and engine mounts. Good luck with your search my friend.
  14. These days, a number of shops and mechanics I know have been rebuilding the original Solex 2bbl carburetors as when they are properly rebuilt and set up, they run smoother and cleaner than the Weber 32/36. The Solex rebuild and tuning manual is available here on the FAQ.
  15. What are the chances of getting a clear photo of the Stahlwille part number of said socket. It’d be cool to know exactly what type it is.
  16. In addition to the fact that without an original dealer invoice or window sticker, there’s no way to verify whether a sunroof is original or not. Tom
  17. It’s mainly the heaviness of the stamping that set my alarms off. The ones done at BMW were done with a backing plate underneath so the stamping doesn’t push down too hard or deform the metal.
  18. Has anyone else looked at the auction of 4290669? I don’t like the VIN stamp on the inner fender, it appears to be heavier than it should be, and is missing the +’s at the ends. I would have to see many more detailed photos of the Turbo specific bodywork, and, have a history of when that VIN stamping got redone. 1974 BMW 2002 TURBO COLLECTINGCARS.COM One of just 1,672 cars ever produced, in excellent mechanical and cosmetic condition.
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