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KFunk

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Everything posted by KFunk

  1. Ahhh, thats way over there in the part of WV that sticks down near DC.
  2. Wait, there's an 02 in West Virginia? Any idea where he's from in WV? I've had my eye out for one, but never even seen another one on the forum, on the FAQ map, or otherwise. I live right across the border (Ohio River) from WV, and I'm over there quite a bit. edit: just checked the FAQ map, looks like a couple recent ones have been added (bnb and Jackson2002tii). Still nowhere near me, but its a start.
  3. So the support shocks can go bad like the ones that support the hatch or hood in every other car of mine?
  4. If it saves you some obsessive clicks, I did find a profile and he barely posted anything on forum. Last visit was 2013, so congrats to him (unless he has aliases).
  5. I stayed at the Euro Youth Hotel (hostel) for $15 a night near Hauptbanhof. Nothing much bad about it at all, much cleaner than much of San Francisco. Hostels are awesome for cheap/shitty accommodations, and you can meet lots of interesting travelers in the hostel bar / breakfast. I don't know how my wife would feel about staying in one with me though. It's not like a full hotel, just a place to sleep and meet people and have a great time. There are lots of free walking tours (tips encouraged), well worth it. Do go to Dachau, and probably Neuschwanstein. By all means, defintely go to the Deutsches Museum as well. It's a mechanical wonderland of all sorts of engine cut-aways and such from a historical perspective.
  6. and you'd be downgrading from a 2.0L to 1.8L...
  7. Also, your car most likely has a relay above the steering column that links the ignition switch to the starter, as most later cars do. It might not be a 'relay' exactly, and more of a safety interlock of some sort. But, it can go bad and deliver weak power to starter. When mine went bad, the starter just made clunky noises, but yours may be different. New starter didn't fix problem, of course. The relay isn't available, but you can just bypass it by putting a jumper in. Figure out which post gets 12V when key is switched to starter position, and figure out which posts makes starter spin. Then just stick a wire between the two and wrap some tape around it. Earlier cars did just fine without a starter relay, so it should be fine. If you want to test if your starter is really bad, and not just ignition switch or circuit, just jump 12V from your battery straight to the switched post on your starter. You can even do this by just laying a screwdriver across the posts just right (it will spark, a lot). If giving 12V straight to starter makes it spin fast like normal, then you'll want to be looking elsewhere. Your 200ner may already bypass the relay though with its starter button, not sure, and not sure what other weak connections it may go through though. .
  8. http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-fuel-intake/02lwpsrFUELpmp.html
  9. As always, I'm the exception that speaks up. Screw the angle torque method. I did it all exactly correct on my freshly rebuilt engine, and 300 miles later it worked loose and blew the headgasket between two cylinders. It needed re-torqued to keep that from happening, but there's no good way to do that with the angle method. I went back to three stage old way, and re-torqueing after a couple hundred miles. That method never failed me before.
  10. Keep in mind the rears on a squaretail are going to take way more force, as they're double layered. The fancy tool does work fairly well, but so does a baseball bat too. Just depends on how much you care about paint. I did not care about paint at all at the time, as it was a beater and I just needed race tires on it. You can wedge baseball bat between tire and lip, and slowly roll car back and forth by hand. The rubber of tire cushions it well, and it's altogether gentler than you'd expect. I did damage the paint just a little, but I didn't ever use hair dryer and I didn't care. With my recent paint job I would take far more care, but probably wouldn't even do it in the first place.
  11. What's the non-sale price for a 5qt. jug? I gotta plan my investments.
  12. Damn, O'reilly's has 5 quart jugs of VR1? I've just been stuck buying 1 qt. bottles for years, and never seen the 5 qt. Unfortunately, the nearest O'reilly's is a 45 minute drive.
  13. I've got an IE 292 from new billet now, but that's neither here nor there. It can idle pretty darn smooth, even though I'm pretty sloppy on tuning. When this thread was started, I was on what I think was stock cam but who knows.
  14. It did, at least the bulk of it I think. What I said at the time was accurate. It's not incredibly smooth by any means today, but around 2009 I switched to 40DCOE sidedraft carbs that probably aren't tuned perfectly, with 292 cam, 9.5:1 IE pistons, etc. Another possibility on how the alternator could've affected idle smoothness is through the electric fuel pump. The voltage it received would've increased (I've always had a volt guage since I bought the car, and idle voltage did go up with the new new alt). I'm pretty sure it was a Carter rotary pump, but there's an off-chance I had a facet that I used for a brief time. I would think that it'd take barely any fuel for the engine to idle, so a weak fuel pump wouldn't affect that much as long as the bowl was full. Maybe it just did give it an extra bit of flow/pressure though to get it running smoother.
  15. He referred to 'carbs' in the plural sense, and mentioned brake booster interference, 2 sets of gaskets, etc., so I presumed he meant sidedrafts. With sidedrafts, you might be thinking of simple paper gaskets vs. soft mounts that are thicker with more flexy rubber. Some folks say that if the sidedraft carbs are mounted too solidly to the engine, theyll shake around too much and foam (?) up the fuel too much or something. I used soft mounts for a while, and was always suspicious that they could give more leeway for vacuum leaks. I've been running the thin paper gaskets for 5 or 6 years now though, and never had any problems that I could attribute to them.
  16. It did. I was still in Hawaii at the time, and it was running on points with a blue coil and 32/36dgv. That thing did shake like hell for the first year or so I had it. Probably one of the reasons I got the car so cheap ($700) . The Bavarian Motor Experts guys in Honolulu basically called it a turd because it idled so rough. It was quite remarkable when it finally settled into a smooth idle, by doing something seemingly unrelated.
  17. FYI, USB borescopes are super cheap now (~$15) and you can easily check out the pistons by looking down the spark plug hole. I've got this one and it's pretty sweet for how cheap it was. Don't use the included software/spyware, and just download a generic program like Oasis. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQE51DN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  18. You may have to wrestle the shocks quite a bit to get them out of the ancient rubber.
  19. No real winter in Ohio this year. Never touched my snowblower. Only had a few light snow coverings. I've still got several cords of firewood left. Barely any salt used on the roads. I drove the 02 to town Saturday, and have taken the '65 Datsun out a couple times to haul stuff. I'd have driven the old cars almost all winter if I didn't have to use the wife's Subaru for baby hauling.
  20. Screwdriver I'd worry about breaking teeth on flywheel, but not sure, never done that. Starter is kind of like using an electric impact wrench, only much easier. As long as your socket is on straight (6pt. preferably), you're fine. It's amazingly drama-free. Watch the vids ( https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=starter+bump+crank+bolt ). I've done it on my 02 several times, including with my freshly rebuilt engine with all the goodies, on a friend's Corolla, a friend's Escort, and my wife's Subaru.
  21. You, uh, sure about that 300 ft/lb. number? Maybe you're thinking of a rear axle nut? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VzY_ydaeqp_lN-NT_dpMSjvD9_rbh5g27BunmTNRKKI/edit#gid=0 That sheet shows 101 to 108 ft. lb for the v-belt pulley on the crankshaft, which seems similar to what I've found in my manual (not with me) and put on my crank nut many times before.
  22. I just bump it off with the starter. Take a breaker bar or big 1/2" drive ratchet and wedge the end between the battery tray and the frame rail, and make sure the socket is firmly in place on the crank nut. One brief turn of the key to spin the starter and it pops loose. Its surprisingly far less dramatic than you'd expect. Sometimes the ratchet falls to the ground afterward, but no biggie. Edit: Plenty o' videos of this method. I've done it in several types of cars, including the 02 multiple times. Crazy easy. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=starter+bump+crank+bolt
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