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Finally broke down


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Hi everybody,

I did, not my car. I love originality and my ‘73 has been, except for an engine rebuild a few years ago. Even kept the wore out Solex on it. A few months ago I put a Weber 32/36 DGEV  and a Petronix ignition on. What a difference, love it. I did modify the original air filter housing to fit. Took me a bit of fiddling though.

Question, does the Weber still use the fuel return valve? Still have mine connected. After the car sits a day or two, one pump on the gas pedal, it cranks over several times before it fires.

Thanks, Robert

PS. Now I’ve been thinking about jumping up one cam spec. I guess this is how it starts, huh?

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11 minutes ago, RD02 said:

Question, does the Weber still use the fuel return valve?

Sure, I still have the fuel return system on my 76 with Weber 32/36, no reason to remove it as long as its working properly.

Weber 32/36 carbs have been synonymous with the 2002 for so long I pretty much consider it "original", a "standard" worthwhile upgrade. You wont regret it or the Pertronix.

20 minutes ago, RD02 said:

After the car sits a day or two, one pump on the gas pedal, it cranks over several times before it fires.

Thats pretty common, a carb spacer/insulator can help, better yet, a stealth in tank electric fuel pump will fix that.

Yep, this is how it begins, along with that mild cam get your flywheel lightened😉

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  • Haha 1

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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1 hour ago, RD02 said:

I’ve been thinking about jumping up one cam spec.

Are you up to removing the head?  That's what it takes to change a cam.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Thanks tech71, the cranking issue isn’t really a problem. I can live with it. 
 

jimk, yeah I can do it. Had it apart already a while back. Even made my own jig to remove the cam.

Thanks guys

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I had the same starting issue and resolved it with a one-way fuel valve.  I think I got it on Amazon - pretty cheap too.  I cut the fuel hose before the fuel pump and inserted the valve.  Couple of clamps and it's a go.  If the car sits for a month or so, it needs more cranking but for a day or 2, it fires right up.

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Hi Motorrod, I did that very same thing. Seemed to work first couple of times but then back to the same thing. Maybe the check valve quit working. I’ll swap it with a new one and see what happens. Thanks

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53 minutes ago, Motorrod said:

had the same starting issue and resolved it with a one-way fuel valve.

That works sometimes but often the problem is the carb heat soaking after the engine is shut down. Evaporates the fuel in fuel bowl, then you have to crank a bit to get the bowl filled with fuel again. An insulator can help, an electric fuel pump does away with that particular problem. Or you can just live with it.

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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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20 hours ago, RD02 said:

PS. Now I’ve been thinking about jumping up one cam spec. I guess this is how it starts, huh?

I'm in the same boat. My engine is completely apart right now and I'm trying to decide whether to keep the stock cam or go up. I've read so many differing opinions on here, but the 284 seems like a good middle ground choice for street driving (no plans on going to the track ever). And then to figure out the pistons and compression. So many rabbit holes. Keep us posted on what you decide.

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18 hours ago, tech71 said:

That works sometimes but often the problem is the carb heat soaking after the engine is shut down. Evaporates the fuel in fuel bowl, then you have to crank a bit to get the bowl filled with fuel again. An insulator can help, an electric fuel pump does away with that particular problem. Or you can just live with it.

Early on in my Beetle journey I had the same problem.Hot start was a bear.Switched to E fuel pump and never a problem since.I switched to E fuel pump on my '02 even though when I bought it last Fall it seemed ok.Now that the car is almost done with resto lets see how it does with new fuel pump.

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'67 Derby Grey VW Beetle

'76 Inka BMW 2002

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tech71, I think an insulator is out for me. Since I’m using the stock air cleaner I need the clearance from the hood. Electric pump is an option, but I’ll just live with it for now.

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gordon415, my engine has already been done with 9.5 compression pistons. I’d have to research the needs for an upgraded cam before I decide.

Thanks

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9 minutes ago, RD02 said:

Anyone not use the fuel return valve with their Weber?

Yes more than a few.

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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You can fit a stock air cleaner on a Weber 32/36 and still have room for the phenolic spacer between carb and manifold.  Both my 1 barrel 69 and 2 barrel 72 have stock air cleaners and spacers--they both clear the hood.  But even with the spacer, the 73 has a hot start problem--the longer it sits hot the longer it cranks before catching.  I've learned to turn the key to start, let it turn over once or twice, then very slowly depress the accelerator pedal.  That seems to work best.

 

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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