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RD02

Kugelfischer
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  1. roberttran, you’re right about CHP, that was mentioned
  2. I had the same issue with a partially missing door sticker. I went to DMV to register my 73 after a 26 year storage. During the VIN verification the guy spent a lot of time trying to see the missing VIN. Fortunately he was a nice guy, knew 2002s because his dad had one, and then convinced the lady inside to let me keep my blue CA plates when she tried to give me new white plates. Robert
  3. Both front tow loops broken off, front end collision, possible under carriage damage? Robert
  4. Ok thanks. Something else that’s just started happening is I keep getting a message that my email address is no longer working please update email.. Thanks, Robert
  5. Hey Steve, my card on PayPal expired so I don’t think my May 2019 membership payment got made. I’ve updated my card and made it the preferred method of pay for the FAQ a few days ago, but I don’t see it on my cards online charges yet. What should I do?
  6. Yes, rattle can base and clear coat
  7. +1 for https://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/bmw/1973/all-models/ did my engine bay, very happy.
  8. Nice going guys. When I bought my 73 2002 back in 1989, it had both front and rear bumper bars on it, and still does. I don’t see pictures of many cars with them, maybe some of you that have them could post pictures, I’d be interested in seeing them. Here’s mine. Robert
  9. Well, Thursday, with my low budget mic and bore gauge (Fowler) I measured pistons and cylinders. Pistons ranged from 3.5418” to 3.5427”. Three cylinders were 3.5466” and one was 3.5460”. That gave clearances of #1= .0048” #2= .0040” #3= .0046” #4= .0039”. I doubled checked everything a couple of times and got repeatable measurements. I’m not a pro by far, but even if I’m off a thou or so, they’re still excessive. And JimK, I tried your method too, to verify what I got. I held the rod, slid the piston in upside down from the top then tried to slip in a feeler gauge. With the feelers I have, .003 was biggest I got in. Yesterday I pulled the block out and stripped it apart. I really want to save this block, mainly because this car is so original and I’ve tried to keep it so. What are my options guys? I need a pro to look at it, and I wouldn’t be comfortable going back to the machinist I used. I live in the SF east bay. Anybody have a good machine shop you’ve used you could refer me to? Thanks everybody, couldn’t do this without ya. Robert
  10. Thanks for the support guys, thanks Toby. I did pull the pistons. Here’s more photos of the head, and then cylinders. The carbon build up on #1 is typical for all four #2, the two scrub marks with the gap in between are from the ends of one of the oil ring scrapers or rail This is #1 below, right side of the cylinder (thrust side?). Scrub marks again from one of the scrapers. At the beginning of this post I said it looked like they didn’t lay flush to the wall. You can see where this one did not scrub the wall adjacent to the ends. Also, just below and just right of center of the picture is a shinny spot, corresponding with the bottom of the piston skirt when it’s at the top of the stroke. There’s also a shinny corresponding spot on the very bottom of the piston skirt. Would that be caused by piston slap, from too much clearance?? I could hear a knock at idle. With one of the scrapers in the cylinder and the flashlight reflecting behind it you can see the gaps. Took firm thumb pressure to push against the wall. Definitely more then the expander ring could do. I thought this was interesting, posted by Avoirdupois from Deves. If a mechanic is used to putting on a different type of oil ring, our rings do appear stiffer. That's the way it should be. Once the ring is in the engine, the heat in the engine will loosen it up, and it adjusts to the cylinder. The secret is the Swedish steel. I found this mark at the bottom off #2. My first thought was it’s a casting flaw. Anybody know what it’s from? So here’s what I found when I first pulled each piston out of the hole. All the rings were installed correctly. But only the first and second compression ring gaps on #2 were still 180* appart. On 1, 3 and 4 the top ring gaps moved almost 180* to within 1/2” of the second ring gap. I checked the rings side clearance and they were within spec. Took the rings off to check end gaps and found them all way too big. Top rings from .025” to .027”, second rings from .018” to .022”. With sloppy fitting oil rings, gaps almost lined up and too big, smoke and blow-by right?? Qustions: 1. Is knock and shiny spot in #1 indication of piston slap from too much clearance? 2. What caused the mark at the bottom of #2? 3. Why would top ring move the way it did ? 4. On piston to cylinder clearance, these IE cast pistons call for .0018” installed clearance. Is that clearance “on a side”, or the difference between the two diameters? I’m suspecting there’s too much clearance. I’ll take more measurements. Robert
  11. Just saw this sell on Mecum Auction in Houston this morning
  12. Stay tuff brothers, keeping you in my thoughts. Robert
  13. Been a few days. Lots of great responses and info, thanks. I pulled the head off last Saturday. Here’s where I might of gone outside the box. I plugged the oil return galley holes with foam rubber. Then filled the valve train box with trans fluid (it was the runniest stuff I had) to the top of the springs, and left it over night. Thinking if it was a cut seal and bad guide it would seep into the port. Next morning, there was no seepage. So I cut some rubber and a piece of plastic to seal each port one at a time. Rotated the cam to close the valve, hooked up my MightyVac and pulled 25in of vacuum for 10 minutes on each port. I realize a running engine pulls a lot more vacuum especially on deceleration, but in my mind if something was bad there would have been some oil pulled into the port, which there wasn’t. Not satisfied, today I disassembled the valve train. Eyeballed the late model seals and they were perfect. Pulled the valves, removed the seals, cleaned oil out of guides and off of the stems and did a wiggle test for stem/guide clearance. Each intake was .0045” and each exhaust was .005”. The Haynes manual says .008” is max. So after today I’m convinced my decel smoke is not from bad seals or guides. What do you guys think so far? Rings next. Robert
  14. You guys are cracking me up. Thanks for responding. I pulled the head off yesterday, it has to come off anyway whether it’s seals or rings, right. Didn’t have much time today but will add info tomorrow. Robert
  15. Okay Andy, will do tomorrow Yep Matt, the smoke is blueish. Thanks guys, Robert


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