Installing remote keyless entry/alarm

[Lucky 7]

At the request of @Pablo M and @bublinki, here’s a quick write up of the keyless entry system I recently installed. 
 

I started with a relatively cheap eBay system that comes with everything you need. You can go with Viper or A1, but you’ll pay a lot more and a lot of the parts are the same. The more expensive systems might come with a useable wiring diagram, unlike mine, but they may not as these are intended to be installed by pros. Don’t worry, it’s not that hard. 
 

Here’s what I got

It came with a partial diagram, but no info on how the alarm module connects to the central lock module. After much looking, I found this helpful video:

Oddly, wires between the two modules aren’t even color matched. A brown from one needs to connect to a white/black on the other.  Madness, I tell you.
 

Anyway, most modern systems are a negative trigger.  Here’s a modified screenshot from the video that is a correct and complete diagram, this is the most important part for anybody planning this upgrade:
 

 

A few notes:

 

 - it’s totally up to you what you do and don’t install. I didn’t do the starter cutoff, the brake trigger, or the door trigger. The first two didn’t interest me and the door trigger allowed a “lock me!” reminder chirp that I didn’t like. I chose to use the ACC connection only, once you turn the ignition it tells the alarm to stand down until the next press of the lock/arm button. 
 

- some systems only have a single lead for the turn signal flash connection.  If that’s the case, you need to install a Y into the single lead, then each leg gets a diode, then you connect to the turn signal lines. If you don’t use the diodes, you’ll be effectively connecting the two turn signal circuits and all four corners will light up when you flick on the turn signal.  My system came with two signal leads making life easier. 
 

 

After bench testing the whole thing to make sure everything worked and I understood how the system behaved with/without various inputs, it was time to install. Definitely bench test first, it was illuminating. 
 

The actuators go in the doors first. Master goes on the driver’s side, slave on the passenger. They came with mounting straps and rods to connect to the factory lock button. 

 

A few holes drilled and they go in pretty easy. 
 

 

Then you have to drill the door and frame for the wires to pass through. Most rubber boots you find require 3/4” holes, which seemed excessive to me. I went with 1/2” boots. 
 

 

I mounted the central locking module up behind the hood release with 3M tape and ran all the actuator wiring through the doors, under the dash and to the module. 
 

 

Then the central locking module needs to connect to the main alarm module. I mounted mine under the rear seat for easy access to power (my battery is in the trunk), but it could easily mount under the dash too…just somewhere with easy access to power and the blinker wires. 
 

 

Then the siren went in the trunk. I used 3M tape to stick it up behind the wheel arch. This location discourages tampering since the trunk is locked, and it doesn’t muffle the sound appreciably.
 

 

This gives a clearer idea of what went where in my install:

 

 

I tape wrapped all lock/alarm system wires into a separate harness. It would be easy to remove if desired and keeps things clean in the meantime. I just have two parallel harness bundles along the drivers side now.  My setup is such that the wiring connection to the rest of the car is limited to a power lead, a ground, the ACC trigger, and the two blinker splices. I tried to keep it as separate as possible to reduce impact and effort. 
 

Hooked up and works perfectly. Signals flash on lock/unlock, alarm goes off if you open the door or start the car without disarming, and it’ll give you a warning chirp if you bump it.  I can still use the key to lock it, just won’t arm the alarm.  Locking the driver’s will automatically lock the passengers too, which is kinda nice.  
 

I’m very happy with the result and there’s nothing visible to betray the illusion of a stock car. My M20 roar, huge brakes, 16” wheels, and left side exhaust might give me away though…

Edited November 4, 2023 by Lucky 7

[Schnellvintage]

Nicely done, thank you for the write up and diagrams.

 

Cheers,

Matt

[tzei]

Nicely done!

 

I did mine with Cobra alarm & E30 central locking unit + actuators. Locks trunk lid too

[AceAndrew]

1 hour ago, tzei said:

Nicely done!

 

I did mine with Cobra alarm & E30 central locking unit + actuators. Locks trunk lid too

 

Have you posted a tutorial of this somewhere, as was done here by @Lucky 7?

 

Great write up.  Mind if it's made into a tech article?

 

 

 

[tzei]

8 minutes ago, AceAndrew said:

tutorial

No I haven’t. Wired alarm system by instructions and tapped c/l unit to it. Tank lid actuator found new life as trunk lock actuator.

 

[Lucky 7]

2 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

Great write up.  Mind if it's made into a tech article?

 

I certainly don’t mind, be my guest. Thanks! 

[bublinki]

Thanks Lucky 7!!!

[Pablo M]

Well done!

Thanks.

[aldo.navarro]

Very well done.

I paid a local alarm/stereo place to install a similar system.

I'm impressed that you did it yourself.

 

[josh72ooh2]

Great job. I was just about to search out alarm technology to see if any of this changed from 10 years ago when I installed mine. My doors are apart and I am going to revise some of my install.  
 

after seeing this, I will try to move all the control bits to the trunk. Mine was under the dash and in the way. 
 

One thing I did was install relays so one click of the remote opens the DS door lock, two clicks opens the passenger side.
One click of the lock button will lock both sides. 
Somewhere I have a diagram for it and I will share it. 

 

 

[dlacey]

 
as seen before, but still elegant!
using this kit:

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/226555-02-auto-trunk-opener-kit-pre-production-reservation/

 

[jimk]

I've had one of Cal's remote trunk operators installed for several years.  Very convenient.