Drive Shaft (Separation)

[markmac]

So, my 235/5 trans is done (Pete's Gear Shop), just need to collect it at some point next month.  

 

I figured I should have the drive shaft sent out and balanced/re-balanced and a new center bearing put on it.  The one on there seems ok but has to be at least 30 years or more old, no brainer to replace it.  I looked at a couple of videos on-line of folks doing this work.  Seems like on all of the drive shafts there is a 18mm (?? or something like it) that gets unscrewed to separate the two pieces.  Nothing even remotely close to that on mine.  No nut of any sort.

 

Let me know if any of you have seen anything that looks like this.

 

As an aside, if anyone has a 235/5 output flange they want to part with let me know (otherwise it's WN).  Tx

[halboyles]

That driveshaft is missing the retaining nut that screws onto the threads that are exposed.  You should be able to just pull the two sections apart with that loosened/missing.  You probably need to source a replacement for that nut.

[halboyles]

BTW, that driveshaft is telescoping, so you might be able to use it as is without shortening depending on what bimmer it came off of.  You might also have to add a CSB support bracket if that driveshaft CSB doesn't align with the OEM brackets in the tunnel.

 

[Son of Marty]

Also be sure to mark the d/s so it can go back together with the same clocking/

[markmac]

Tx.  It is part of my Alpina Gr.2 parts assortment.  I have to assume they were using it in the car (or at least the PO).  Since the car has a short neck diff and a 235 trans it has been shortened (although I haven't measured it.  In theory it should bolt up as it was in the car before it was dismantled 20 years ago.

[TobyB]

Looks E30ish to me...

 

t

[Mikesmalaga72]

The 235/5 driveshaft is supposed to have an 18 MM dodecagon still available collar nut part number 26111101782. 

Edited August 27, 2023 by Mikesmalaga72

[markmac]

So I have had this car since 2002 (funny enough), prior to that stored some outside/inside in upstate NY for 15 or so years.  That owner didn't do jack sh&t with it after he ran it into a tire barrier.  I think (but don't know) it is at beast case early 80's, more likely late 70's.  No idea really.

[tzei]

+1 what Toby said. Yoke part (sans nut) looks like one from E30. Someone has been crafty. Nut would be good idea so grud does not get to splines. I think the nut also took some slack out of it iirc.

[uai]

Early driveshafts of NK and Longneck 02 also have this layout with the spline.
However there is no nut but just a sleeve to hold the felt protecting the spline.
The old ones are indexed too so that you cannot make a mistake during assembly.

 

Here in the pic

A= Neue Klasse
B= 1600-2 with Longneck
The result of this marriage was a shortened A1 with the rest of B2 and the splines of the A shaft
to fit a ti/sa gearbox with a longneck diff

Middle bearing is hold in place with a circlip
 

Edited August 27, 2023 by uai

[markmac]

Boom, and there you have it.  Now to figure out how to get the two apart so I can more easily ship it.  Sometimes the most seemingly simple things are complicated.  

[uai]

1 hour ago, markmac said:

Now to figure out how to get the two apart so I can more easily ship it.

Just mark them (in case they aren't indexed) and pull them apart

 

[mac]

We're talkin' about a 275HP race car, right?

Those rubber bits should be in the bottom of your neighbors pool. 

A stock '02 driveshaft isn't the right one to have. 

Visit your local HotRod/Truck driveshaft service center.  They will

get you going in the right direction.

 

Mac.   

[markmac]

Yes

 

The car retired (DNF'd) a number of races for a variety of reasons, but never because of a drive shaft failure.  I am pretty sure this one was part of the car back in the day.

 

As you suggest, it is probably worthwhile making an inquiry about a custom drive shaft.

Edited August 27, 2023 by markmac