Dead cylinder in 1972 2002tii

[bergie33]

31 minutes ago, Pablo M said:

Well, pulled the head and clearly I have an exhaust valve issue. 
 

 

Not only that... where is the rest of the valve and what has it damaged? 

[Pablo M]

11 minutes ago, bergie33 said:

 

Not only that... where is the rest of the valve and what has it damaged? 

Very good question !! 

[Conserv]

Presumably, while the head is off, you’re going to be carefully examining the cylinder walls and piston tops. Right?

 

The 155-165 psi compression — on cylinders 1, 3, and 4 — was certainly favorable and encouraging, but now’s your chance to measure cylinder bores first-hand (and look for cylinder or piston damage from that chunk of valve).

 

Do you have a meaningful estimate of the miles on this engine, or since a rebuild, if there ever was one? Unless I’m mixing up cars and owners — happens frequently 🙄 — this was your father’s car from the early 1980’s.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[TobyB]

The only thing the valve chunk could have damaged would be the piston crown and the head itself-

and the quench surface of the head looks fine.  

And even if it did dent some stuff, buzz off the high spots and you'll be fine.

 

Often, when they chunk, it comes out in little crumbly chunks and gets blown into the exhaust.

So unless the chunks get wedged in your catalytic converter, you're fine

 

t

[tech71]

On 9/1/2023 at 9:53 PM, Pablo M said:

Its a 121 head. 

Definitely have it pressure tested provided it passes a visual and 10X inspection for cracks.

Edited September 11, 2023 by tech71

[Pablo M]

3 hours ago, Conserv said:

Presumably, while the head is off, you’re going to be carefully examining the cylinder walls and piston tops. Right?

 

The 155-165 psi compression — on cylinders 1, 3, and 4 — was certainly favorable and encouraging, but now’s your chance to measure cylinder bores first-hand (and look for cylinder or piston damage from that chunk of valve).

 

Do you have a meaningful estimate of the miles on this engine, or since a rebuild, if there ever was one? Unless I’m mixing up cars and owners — happens frequently 🙄 — this was your father’s car from the early 1980’s.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Of course! I hope to find out more about the condition of this motor now that its apart.

I have substantial records for the car to new, but there's some gaps.

Seems around 1985 car showed 40k miles. I imagine, since it was a doctors daily driver that would be 140k. So car could only have 185k miles, but given its condition I assume car/engine has 285k miles as its showing 85k now. Records never show it going down though, suggesting it never rolled over. 185...285...Dunno.

No, wrong car. Not my fathers car. I have same memory episodes, lol.

19 minutes ago, TobyB said:

The only thing the valve chunk could have damaged would be the piston crown and the head itself-

and the quench surface of the head looks fine.  

And even if it did dent some stuff, buzz off the high spots and you'll be fine.

 

Often, when they chunk, it comes out in little crumbly chunks and gets blown into the exhaust.

So unless the chunks get wedged in your catalytic converter, you're fine

 

t

I'll post some photos when I get a chance.

Thanks!

[Pablo M]

8 minutes ago, tech71 said:

Definitely have it pressure tested provided it passes a visual and 10X inspection for cracks.

For sure. The machine shop I talked to (both actually) wont do anything until the visually inspect and have it pressure tested. No sense working on a compromised head.

[tech71]

I suggest you yourself inspect it for cracks before turning it over to machine shop. All you need are: Eyes, strong light and a magnifier 

Might save you some $$ or at least time 😉

Edited September 11, 2023 by tech71

[Son of Marty]

Be sure to include the front timing cover with the head when you ship it to the machinist so they can both be skimmed together.

[66Vette]

If you are so inclined you can now run a leak down on the cylinders.  What I do (just did on a Chevy inline 6) is to make a plate that bolts to the block over each cylinder.  It doesn't need any fancy machining, just drill the plate holes to roughly match the threads in the block for the head.  I use a rubber gasket sandwiched between the block and plate to get a good seal.  In the center of the plate, put an air fitting.

 

Now, no guessing.  Pressurize the cylinder through the air fitting and read the leak down.  If you really want to fool around, you can run the test with the piston in various positions.  You may have to brace the crank as the air will want to push the piston down.

 

I suspect you have a solid bottom end, the leak test will prove it.

[Pablo M]

Better shot of the valve. 

 

overall bottom of head:

 

#2 cylinder, looks good, as does #3

 

Overall block

 

 

Looks like some long term oil seepage from back of block, possibly rear seal. 

[TobyB]

Looks like maybe the 1-2 bridge on the head gasket was starting to get weak, but

post up a pic or 3 of the block without the head gasket.

 

Me, looking at that, would be taking the head apart and inspecting the other 3 exhaust valves,

then getting a valve job done, the injectors tested, and bolt it all back together for driving.

Send it!

 

t

 

[Son of Marty]

23 hours ago, bergie33 said:

where is the rest of the valve and what has it damaged? 

It turned into smoke and went out the exhaust, the charge when burning and is forced through a small orifice works just like a blow troch.

[Pablo M]

3 hours ago, TobyB said:

Looks like maybe the 1-2 bridge on the head gasket was starting to get weak, but

post up a pic or 3 of the block without the head gasket.

 

Me, looking at that, would be taking the head apart and inspecting the other 3 exhaust valves,

then getting a valve job done, the injectors tested, and bolt it all back together for driving.

Send it!

 

t

 

Head gasket came off easily. Concerning amount of oil under head gasket around #4. 
immediately after gasket removal, no wiping or cleaning of any kind:

 

 

after wiping:

 

 

Details:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[OldRoller]

Looks pretty good. Remove the dowels, move pistons down midstroke. Stuff oil soaked shop rags in the holes, and stuff coolant and oil passages with paper towels with a few drop of oil on'em. Get a flat block, wrap it with 150 oxide sandpaper, and go to town on the surface. Move up to 220 when it starts looking clean. 400 for the final deck polish. Clean it up and pull the rags/towels carefully. 

 

And chase the head bolt holes, and clean them like a doctor after a virus! Q-tips, brake clean, vacuum, air pressure. Stock gasket and Copper Coat it both sides, 2 light coats. And light oil on the head bolts on reassembly.

 

Just my 2 cents, resurrected many old and dead engines. I'm sure others have their preferences. The head deserves maximum attention.