1976 BMW 2002 - First Drive Impressions and questions?

[2002iii]

In the video it was running a little rough but not too bad.

[Santawillis]

Update number 3 - I am sorry for so many and since rain is coming for the next few days this will be the last until the weekend. 

 

@Son of MartyThe brake master is hooked up correctly, and the rear brake line is connected to the brass nut BUT I had my lovely fiance hit the brakes while I spun the front wheels, after she applied the brakes it became EASIER to turn the wheel, and then as I turned it more it became harder until it was pretty tough. We repeated this on both front wheels and they both had the same diagnosis. I am not sure if this means the caliper is sticking, not sure what else it could be. 

 

@Mike Self (1) remove the cap atop the pump and clean the filter screen underneath - There was some debris in the screen of the pump and the cover, I cleaned that out, I may want to replace the filter since it has been more than likely gathering debris as well, I have a spare one somewhere.

 

(2) disconnect the outlet side of the pump and crank the engine to see how much gas the pump squirts into a jar--or remove the pump altogether and do this manually (the former is much easier). - This will be the next step once I have a jug to get this going.

 

I would also check the operation of your ignition.  The advance pod on your distributor should be connected to the vacuum advance port above the base of your Weber carb facing the passenger fender. - Indeed it is connected to the carb, but there are two vacuum ports on the carb itself, one higher than the other, might switch the two to see if I get any improvements. 

 

I also moved the filter from the hot surface of the engine so no problems should arise! 

 

@2002iii I think part of my problem is a low idle and it did not have a chance to warm up, but slow and steady

 

Anywho, any suggestions on the brakes is greatly appreciated as I continue to tackle the issues, the brakes would explain the car being sluggish.

 

[Mark92131]

16 hours ago, Santawillis said:

Indeed it is connected to the carb, but there are two vacuum ports on the carb itself, one higher than the other, might switch the two to see if I get any improvements. 

 

You want the top one connected to your advance pod (ported vacuum above the throttle plates), the lower one is manifold vacuum.  Ported vacuum doesn't pull vacuum at idle, manifold vacuum pulls vacuum idle to WOT.  So at idle with ported vacuum, you are running static timing (no vacuum advance).  If you switch to manifold vacuum, (the lower fitting) you will be running static timing + whatever advance is produced by the manifold vacuum at idle.  This all assumes that you have removed the distributor cap, wrapped your lips around the hose connected to distributor advance pod, sucked really hard and verified the points plate moved.  Otherwise, bad distributor advance pod and your distributor is only running static advance.

 

Mark92131

[Santawillis]

@John76 - Based on the diagram you suggested there are a few ways to "interpret" how to vacumn line to the carborator from the advance pod can be routed, would you suggest I route it directly to the Carb or throught the black valve? I guess I can hook it up both ways and find out but wanted to see if you had any suggestions  I market it up based on what was present and removed.

[John76]

You can connect the vacuum advance hose directly to the upper vacuum tap on the Weber if you prefer PORTED advance.

Or connect to the tap on the #4 intake runner for MANIFOLD advance.

Huge fights will erupt on this forum over which is better.  

I circled all the other things that can be removed ... I'm envious!

John

 

 

[jimk]

1 hour ago, John76 said:

Or connect to the tap on the #4 intake runner for MANIFOLD advance.

That argument only surfaced with the 123 distr which can be programmed for either port.  A vacuum pot distr needs to be on the upper nipple or there will be vacuum advance at unwanted times.

[dlefebvre02]

@Santawillis I am the owner of a '76 2002 as well. Although it is unlikely your main problem in this case, due to the other issues you are currently tackling, fixing the large hole in our exhaust noticeably increased our both bottom- and top-end torque. Since the  engine is naturally aspirated, it seems to rely on the back pressure from the exhaust more than I originally thought.

[Santawillis]

@dlefebvre02 Absolutely! I need to crank the windows when driving it because of how many fumes run into the cabin, makes the engine sound likea bit of a fart as well. I am hoping to soon acquire a header to replace the current manifold as well as dual Weber 45 152s to help on both ends of the spectrum but this is after I fix the major issues currently going on

[Santawillis]

Alright, I am still stumped. 

 

Took the 2002 for a quick drive and at first, it went GREAT! Started from 2nd gear with no problem and had plenty of pep and was a blast! But then 10 minutes into it felt lethargic and had smoking front brakes - It would not roll down a hill with the car fully in neutral. I did try to "bed" the brakes with some pretty good stops, which seemed to cause the problem to worsen.

 

Before the drive, I blend all 4 corners once again thoroughly, and checked for caliper operation and it seemed to be working fine. I am now convinced something is going on with either my front calipers or master (mind you this is a brand new ATE master).

 

Fuel pump was functioning really well and the fuel lines seem to be doing okay as well, probably a future replacement as I don't like fire very much but they are not the source of the problem. Plugging the vacuum leaks actually thoroughly improved the experience!

 

My current plan is to yank the front pads and check if they were installed correctly, but it is extremely bizarre that the front brakes seem to be getting worse the more I drive the car.

 

[popovm]

23 minutes ago, Santawillis said:

Alright, I am still stumped. 

 

Took the 2002 for a quick drive and at first, it went GREAT! Started from 2nd gear with no problem and had plenty of pep and was a blast! But then 10 minutes into it felt lethargic and had smoking front brakes - It would not roll down a hill with the car fully in neutral. I did try to "bed" the brakes with some pretty good stops, which seemed to cause the problem to worsen.

 

Before the drive, I blend all 4 corners once again thoroughly, and checked for caliper operation and it seemed to be working fine. I am now convinced something is going on with either my front calipers or master (mind you this is a brand new ATE master).

 

Fuel pump was functioning really well and the fuel lines seem to be doing okay as well, probably a future replacement as I don't like fire very much but they are not the source of the problem. Plugging the vacuum leaks actually thoroughly improved the experience!

 

My current plan is to yank the front pads and check if they were installed correctly, but it is extremely bizarre that the front brakes seem to be getting worse the more I drive the car.

 

 

Nice! More pep; one thing down at a time. You jogged my memory about this thread from 2021. Couple things discussed there... troubleshooting the booster including vacuum and (what eventually was the fix) sticky break linkage. Maybe one or the other will be the fix. Or maybe this is a red herring. 

 

[Santawillis]

@popovmthat is 100% the same symptoms I am experiencing now! I went ahead and applied a copious amount of silicone lubricant all over the brake linkages and went for a wet drive. At first, things were great again but alas my optimism was short-lived. I think I may just completely start over in terms of brakes, first checking for sticking pistons on the front calipers and disassembling from there on. I may remove the booster and get a better look at the brake pedal assembly and see if I can narrow down what is going on. The good thing is the car, engine-wise, is great, one wheel burn outs( not really but the wet pavement sure assisted) and great shifting. Once I get this figured out I think I will have a really fun car that I will enjoy for many many years

[Santawillis]

Okay! Went for another drive today after 5 days of tinkering, it was GREAT and I will explain the absolute goose chase I went down. 

 

First - Brake issues got me to remove the master and the small peg at the end of the booster, I found that when I install the master I have to push the piston for it to sit flush with the booster, I found out that it is not ideal and was probably causing my master to always have pressure when is not desired. I ground the peg so it was not engaging the master when I installed it( I will probably need a new booster but for now this will suffice my itch to drive this thing!). while I was at it popped every single piston at the caliper out and silicone greased every single one. I got fresh pads because the other ones were toast (literal toast very burnt). I lubricated every point that the brake pedal is associated with and today no sticking! I did find two further issues, my thermostat does not seem to be opening up, not sure if this is an issue with the thermostat but a new one will probably be ordered just in case. I don't think the car was overheating, my guess is it would be more apparent, I have brand new hoses and a new radiator to boot. The second new issue is that I need to pull the brake pedal up after depressing it, I did replace the return spring with a rather weak one so I probably need to get a better one. The stronger return spring "returned" onto my face causing a rather nice bruise, thank god I have 2 months until my wedding!

 

Second - I was running the incorrect coil, car came with both a Bosch "black" and a "blue" and it took me chasing the ignition wire to see if the previous owner removed the resistor, and they did. So a new 3ohm flamethrower and she is running very very smoothly vs the "blue"!!! I definitely need to rebuild the ratty 32/36 that is on there now which will further help.

 

All in all, I was able to start from a stop in second gear, I have no hesitation from the engine and I was left with a big old dumb smile on my face!

 

On to the next thing, thank you, EVERYONE! @popovm, @dlefebvre02, @John76(my savior), @Mike Self, @Mark92131, @2002iii @Dudelandand @Son of Marty for getting another 02 back on the road!