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our new-to-us 1600-2


autokunst

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6 hours ago, Conserv said:
6 hours ago, Conserv said:

Well, I don’t speak German, but I believe rechts Liegesitz translates into “right reclining seat”. So (a.) this backrest started life on a reclining seat — in contrast to the 1600-2’s standard 3-way adjustable seat, and (b.) although I can’t see all of your front seat’s hinges, they look like full recliners and not 3-way adjustable hinges. Below is a photo of a full recliner, as would have been found on a July 1969 2002.

 

This, combined with the rarity of full reclining seats on a March 1968 1600-2 — I don’t know if that ever happened — while any July 1969 2002 imported by Hoffman Motors certainly had recliners, would lead me to conclude that the entire July 1969 seats were moved from the 1969 model to the 1968 model.

 

That’s where I’m at!

 

Regards,

 

 

Hey Steve,

Wow - this just got really serious about seats and vinyl colors.  If I understand your comments, you'd suggest that the original front seats in my Feb 1968 car were replaced with front seats from a July 1969 1600 or 2002.  That seems reasonable to me.  

 

At some point I'd love to understand the difference between 3-way adjustable seats and full reclining seats.  But I don't intend to change these seats, so it really isn't mission critical at this point.  

 

Some more critical mechanical items presented since my drives yesterday.  I'll post some comments in a moment.

Stephen

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Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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So, I'd mentioned that I had replaced many of the fluids in the car before/as I do some shake down drives.  And I did drive the car about 30 miles yesterday at speeds ranging from an average of 35 mph to as high as about 55 mph.  Everything seemed pretty good save for two things:

- A sound that I'd classify as a rotational noise coming from the rear (could be rear diff, wheel bearing, tire noise - not sure yet).  Center bearing is another theory.

- A clunking or thud type sound when going over bumps.

 

Today I went out to the garage to change the rear diff oil (or at least drain it for a fill tomorrow).  I was greeted with a puddle of very brown brake fluid leaking from the left rear wheel.  Perhaps this evident wheel cylinder blow out is contributing to my "rotational noise"?  I doubt it, but glad I saw this right away.  The new diff oil may help the sound - we'll see...

 

And also the left rear shock is loose at both the top and bottom.  The top pair of locking nuts cannot be tightened down enough to compress the rubber bushing around the shock tower such that the top shock connection is just loose - wiggles easily by hand; and the bottom nut appears to be stripped such that it cannot be tightened nor can it be removed.  Perhaps these two conditions are contributing to the clunking sound. Shocking (sorry, couldn't resist).

 

While I didn't anticipate these ailments, I am glad they are presenting now rather than half way to The Vintage or something...

 

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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Just to put the seat issue to bed, I can confirm that the seats are, as Steve suggested (and already knew) full recliners.  I looked up some details and now understand the differences.  I also took the liberty of reclining in the car - pretty cool!  

1114191408_20220821-seathinge1.thumb.jpg.d951a32d45e7f10be4a112fcd67938dc.jpg

1699670723_20220821-seathinge2.thumb.jpg.41b3679516cc3e9b9334186cd8da67fa.jpg

2131593645_20220821-seathinge3.thumb.jpg.62d41bb6e671dcc25f694b468aceb802.jpg

 

In other business, I've ordered new rear wheel cylinders, some miscellaneous nuts and bolts, various other items I'm discovering I need.  The car is getting better every day.  Today I finished replacing the rear diff gear oil and also fixed the turn signal release mechanism which was only releasing in one direction.  Now it works in both directions and will help us not be "that car with the blinker on".  

  • Like 1

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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While investigating the "loose" shock attachment, I found that the car has a pair of KYB Gas-A-Just performance shocks (which are coincidentally not adjustable).  But they feel really good - I don't think they are in need of changing.  I have a pair of Bilstein HDs to replace them, but maybe I leave them on the shelf for a while longer.  More important is the need to replace the knurled studs that the shocks attach to at the bottom.

1448867671_20220821-kyb1.thumb.jpg.8cef5b8a95bb986841ba27064db04afc.jpg

1787270982_20220821-kyb2.thumb.jpg.67c6e1eb67cfed314f9cca8f48df8635.jpg

Edited by autokunst
  • Like 1

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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I fixed the outer seat back release tonight.  The cable had broken at the lever after over 50 years of bending at the little clamp.  This new cable will hopefully provide a few more decades of service.

1157579988_20220823-outerseatrelease1.thumb.jpg.e811bb8b7d3f9484f10fc2038d9e6453.jpg

  • Like 1

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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  • 1 month later...

The weather is quickly turning and I feel I only have about 6 to 8 weeks of driving season here in Wisconsin before this car gets tucked away for the winter.  This reality is in opposition to the "while I'm in there I'll fix or update it" attitude I've been taking.  I still have two critical parts that should arrive this week (new brake carrier plates and new brake shoes).  But I've been able to get a lot of the rear axle/suspension back together.

 

Rear wheel bearings are done.  Here is the inner bearing packed and installed.

2079701298_20220924-rearwheelbearing1.thumb.jpg.23f7e5edb5fe083e5d324223ece780fc.jpg

 

Exactly 35 grams of grease on the spacer.  I wonder if the Redline grease is lighter in weight than what BMW so carefully specified 54 years ago.

1121427251_20220924-rearwheelbearing2.thumb.jpg.4de073207e9aaf6e85b61b8df9c397b6.jpg

 

The wheel bearings slid in like butter with the proper bearing driver set-up.  Thanks to @Luis for the tip.

376017106_20220924-rearwheelbearing3.thumb.jpg.7f54826ec1e703f8862a79f4982ddd44.jpg

 

All bearings and seals installed, awaiting the brake carrier plates...

1933786370_20220924-rearwheelbearing4.thumb.jpg.b0a5818fecfa0d002efb571b93d907d6.jpg

 

Next were the shocks.  I had to replace the bottom studs (one of them was stripped).  I don't have a photo, but I used a 2-arm puller to set them.  And I came up with this threaded rod and a block of wood to set the top bushings into the tower.

1296847431_20220925-rearshock1.thumb.jpg.1476d5a3440f677f7cdf91dce1e9ac0a.jpg

468271734_20220925-rearshock2.thumb.jpg.54a106c7f00269673a44afc07673f27f.jpg

 

Shocks installed.

202962965_20220925-rearshock3.thumb.jpg.5cf5c167f981939ef76022c6d3a063f5.jpg

 

All of our cars have names, and typically also mascots.  The previous owners of this car named it Stuart and it stuck.  Amy just found the mascot:  Little Stuart.  He's ready for his first ride.

908350570_20220925-stuartsmascot.thumb.jpg.3130a945da99aa2fc6cf1006f0a1793e.jpg

 

  • Like 5

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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  • 1 month later...

Speedometer/speedometer cable question

 

Today I went on what will likely be the last drive of the year for me in the 1600.  They have not salted the roads yet, and it was in the mid 60s.  But by the weekend it may be freezing temps and precipitation - which means the old cars are not coming out until spring.

 

Every drive with this relatively new-to-us car reveals the next thing (or several) that I need to fix.  Today was no exception.  In fact, it was quite exciting.  

 

During the last several drives, a small sound presented that I audibly diagnosed as a speedometer cable issue.  It was a small scratching sound that appeared when we were in motion.  Today's drive took my over about 120 miles.  The speedometer cable sound presented shortly after I left the house.  After a number of miles it started to get louder.  I also noticed the speedometer needle pulsing in sync with the sound.  This further proofed my speedometer cable theory - or was it the speedometer itself?  

 

After another few miles the sound was louder.  And the pulsing on the speedometer was greater as well.  Then, suddenly, the pulsing sound connected into one continuous screeching noise.  The needle was now pulsing all the way to 100 and 120 mph (I was only going 45).  Then the needle spun around clockwise several times - it was like my car was the star in an exorcist sequel.  I looked up at the road for a moment.  When I looked back down, the longer end of the needle was gone!  I still don't know where it is, but it must be in the speedometer case somewhere.  The center button remains along with the short back span side of the needle looking quite inadequate.  

 

I pulled over and pulled the speedo cable out of the speedo.  That solved the sound and the oscillation.  

 

My question is: Has anyone else experienced a similar event?  Obviously I need to fix the speedometer needle now.  But do the original symptoms sound like a speedo cable?  Or a speedometer problem?

 

Thanks for any input!

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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13 minutes ago, autokunst said:

Speedometer/speedometer cable question

 

Today I went on what will likely be the last drive of the year for me in the 1600.  They have not salted the roads yet, and it was in the mid 60s.  But by the weekend it may be freezing temps and precipitation - which means the old cars are not coming out until spring.

 

Every drive with this relatively new-to-us car reveals the next thing (or several) that I need to fix.  Today was no exception.  In fact, it was quite exciting.  

 

During the last several drives, a small sound presented that I audibly diagnosed as a speedometer cable issue.  It was a small scratching sound that appeared when we were in motion.  Today's drive took my over about 120 miles.  The speedometer cable sound presented shortly after I left the house.  After a number of miles it started to get louder.  I also noticed the speedometer needle pulsing in sync with the sound.  This further proofed my speedometer cable theory - or was it the speedometer itself?  

 

After another few miles the sound was louder.  And the pulsing on the speedometer was greater as well.  Then, suddenly, the pulsing sound connected into one continuous screeching noise.  The needle was now pulsing all the way to 100 and 120 mph (I was only going 45).  Then the needle spun around clockwise several times - it was like my car was the star in an exorcist sequel.  I looked up at the road for a moment.  When I looked back down, the longer end of the needle was gone!  I still don't know where it is, but it must be in the speedometer case somewhere.  The center button remains along with the short back span side of the needle looking quite inadequate.  

 

I pulled over and pulled the speedo cable out of the speedo.  That solved the sound and the oscillation.  

 

My question is: Has anyone else experienced a similar event?  Obviously I need to fix the speedometer needle now.  But do the original symptoms sound like a speedo cable?  Or a speedometer problem?

 

Thanks for any input!

Yes.

 

:D

  • Haha 2

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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Stephen,

 

The noise you heard was actually Stuart complaining about being taken off the road for the entire WI winter.  At the risk of repeating myself, and I am, I have  driven 8 classic BMWs, a 1600, four Bavarias, two e9 coupes and my current drive, Lilli, a pristine rust-free, really, 76 2002 through five decades of NE Winters. 

 

Climate change has made it even easier. Fewer snow storms, more rain that washed the salt from the roads and many more milder, sunny, clear days. And the older BMW engines all love the cooler temperatures.

 

Life is too short and fleeting to go classic carless all winter.

 

Steve

 

 

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Thanks to the folks who replied about the speedometer needle business.  And special thanks to @Mike Self and @Mucci for the amazing write ups on this system.  Now that I understand how the speedometer works, what happened on the road that day makes perfect sense.  I only wish I'd pulled over sooner and pre-emptively pulled the the speedo cable so as to save the needle.

 

One detail that differs from the images that @Mucci posted is the end of the shaft where the speedo cable engages.  His photos show an enlarged disc at the end of the shaft, but my 1600's shaft remains within the housing.  I assume the difference is simply a later car verses an earlier car.

1289094930_20221111-speedoshaftplay.thumb.jpg.4c5f283dc6c51b4d7b343e876b3a36c7.jpg

As you can see, the play I get with the shaft is a good 3mm!  That definitely exceeds the 1mm max that was discussed in earlier posts.  

 

With that in mind, I tried "tapping" the shaft to seat it flush in the larger solid drum.  I don't think I made any headway yet - but this operation did manage to vibrate the steel ring out of the housing.  I am not sure how it is fastened in there.  Could it be just the green anti-seize that is supposed to "glue" it in place?

954473319_20221111-speedosteelringoff.thumb.jpg.dd01ba4daf3ccb7439b17ba2fae517dd.jpg

1856026872_20221111-speedoshimloose.thumb.jpg.b5e404c5c29df5f55fb7a4274df39957.jpg

1382707816_20221111-speedosteelringin.thumb.jpg.ed3af8f4d5822f4d273bc86d28f09d6a.jpg

 

Here you can see the contact scratches that occurred from the drum.  

61690862_20221111-speedoalumdisc.thumb.jpg.edf1a8b7cf27edd2f29d5fd6c88e00ac.jpg

 

QUESTION: Is the solution for this earlier mechanism the same as what was posted previously?  In other words, do I just need to "tap" (or press) this together with more gusto?

 

Edited by autokunst

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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