M10 Rebuild Project

[TobyB]

Oh, sorry-

in my universe, the 'bearings' were the bearing surface of the cam,

and the 'journals' were the bearing surface of the head.

 

I have no idea why.

 

I used 220 on the cast iron, as much to scuff it as to smooth it,

and I'd use significantly finer on the aluminum inside the head, IF it really needs it.

But I'd really leave it alone if it doesn't, as the aluminum finish that cams like seems

to be 'mirror smooth'...

and a smooth finish on the cam itself would be ok, too, I'm sure.

 

t

confusingly confused himself.

[2002#3]

Thanks, Toby. 

After being "hand milled", the head "bearings" seem to allow the shafts and cam to turn easily enough, albeit a long way from spinning for 5 minutes after an easy single spin by hand.  Now, the head and the block will go for a professional cleaning and then into a machinist's soft, loving, and caring hands for measuring, machining, and a back rub.  

Larry

[SydneyTii]

What does it costs in parts alone these days to rebuild an engine to standard spec, I mean with new oil pump, pistons mains etc and full head refresh all new valves, guides, cam just a tired old engine, every time I walk past my spare Tii engine I’m curious.

machine shop depends a bit where you live, the rest you should be able to get from Jaymic, Walloth etc

Removal, strip down. Reassembly by yourself of course?

[2002#3]

Sydney,

• parts to produce a little more fun over stock (upgrade cam, valve train components, pistons, and carb[s]s to produce a little more [not much] fun)
• professional cleaning, machining/labor, advice
• my installing/assembling/labor

I suspect $4,000 USD, or so.  Gang, am I way off?

 

Larry  

[Rich]

as I have just finished having my M10 rebuilt, to what you might call, or what Korman calls a " Stage II " performance rebuild. along with an " ultimate rebuilt " of my Getrag 245 by Metric, and then both installed, I would have to say minium $5,000. I think the biggest variabl here would be the carbs. I went with the totally rebuilt Weber DCOE 40's. So great now you have a nice new engine on a stand, see photo, where I got suprised was with what came next. So the installer calls me and says, ( does anyone remember that old TV commercial where the voice mail says, Hey, your cars got problems, BIG problems ) hey, nce engine but it does not fit, GULP. The fancy custom air filters I used, they look great and are suposed to perform great, but they did not fit with the stock brake booster. So off I go to the inter web to find a very nice totaly rebuilt tii brake booster, and that was an other big chunk $$ that was a suprise. Then the installer called and said, so are you married to that fancy shorty down pipe header, well then you need a new exhaust, GULP. Then the Webber carbs are great, but what re you doing for linkage, back to the inter web and to the parts store, cha chng, more $$. On and ON it goes. Now mind you, all the parts I needed came from this community from great reputable sources and I am VERY pleased ith the result, but ... it is a very slippery slope, and a steep one, and you will end up spending a lot more money than you expect. 

[Rich]

[bergie33]

I am at about $3,500 for my tii engine rebuild.  That includes machine shop work (I tore the head down to the valves/springs, they cleaned, decked installed valves, guides, seals, bored block, polished crank, shaved block and timing covers, media blasted all engine parts, covers, etc.).  I did all of the assembly work (other than valves).  New everything (including Mahle pistons, all head components, used my old camshaft and crank), refurbished connecting rods, NOS e21 oil pump.  Includes all gaskets, engine mounts.  Machine shop was $900, the rest was parts.

[bergie33]

2 hours ago, 2002#3 said:

Sydney,

• parts to produce a little more fun over stock (upgrade cam, valve train components, pistons, and carb[s]s to produce a little more [not much] fun)
• professional cleaning, machining/labor, advice
• my installing/assembling/labor

I suspect $4,000 USD, or so.  Gang, am I way off?

 

Larry  

If I upgraded the cam I would be pretty darn close to $4k.

[SydneyTii]

Great guide, Yes my rebuild would be to stock or near to and just like yours, I’m happy with maybe a cam but with a Tii that’s a whole can of worms I’m not sure I want to entertain, I have a freshly rebuilt pump so that’s good as well, need to start collecting parts, W$N have good sales and Jaymic will price match often so it looks like a nice job for winter. Cheers.

[2002#3]

Rebuild Part 4

 

The block, head, and three covers are at the machine shop getting a good degreasing, cleaning, dusting, etc. in preparation for measurements and subsequent painting (only the block).  Today, I did what you told me to do:  I read the Blue Service Manual, Section 11 Engine...twice...and took three pages of notes, mostly the Refitting directions.  My notes now fill a 2" binder.  Like you said, "Collect rebuild info and read for the first 3  months."  

 

Please clarify:  "Narrow collar of rod cap nut must face the cap."

 

Today I changed the title of this thread from "M10 Rebuild Begins" to "M10 Rebuild Project" b/c I ain't beginning any more.  

 

Larry

 

[bergie33]

There is a good shade tree mechanic article on rebuilding. Let me find it and I'll send it to you. It too is a good read. 

 

[bergie33]

Here you go.  5 separate articles, all in one file.

Shade Tree Topics - Engine Rebuild Articles 1-5.pdf

[2002#3]

Thanks, Karl. 

Those articles were the first ones I collected and read some time ago prior to the beginning of the rebuild.  Exceedingly superb info for all, indeed.

Larry

Edited August 14, 2022 by 2002#3
clarified text

[2002#3]

M10 Rebuild Part 5

 

Block, head, valve cover, and timing chain covers were cleaned, baked and fired (only the block), blasted, cleaned again, blown, and cleaned again.  The cleaner put a light coat of cast iron primer on the block to prevent rust until I paint it.  The head and covers were scrubbed a little too much and are too shiny for me; however, they are as clean as a Safeway chitlin' and all too soon they will loose their sheen and present the original studly stained Al  we've grown to love and/or hate.  Tomorrow I will prime and paint the block satin black (although that grey-bronze[?] looks pretty sweet).  Yep, those are the original freeze plugs re-inserted temporarily for painting purposes.

 

Post-painting, off to my machinist for (i) many measurements to see if the head and block are rebuildable, and, if so, (ii) the first of many (expensive) decisions. 

 

Rich and Bob,

Whachatink, boys?

 

Larry

 

 

[Bob D.]

1 hour ago, 2002#3 said:

Rich and Bob,

Whachatink, boys?

Wow, lookin’ good, Larry!

You don’t know this, but this whole rebuild thing was actually our idea, subliminally implanted in your brain in April at Mid-America. In fact, if this engine turns out even halfway decent, and you play your cards right, you may become…the Official Engine Builder for Dogleg LLC!! ??‍♂️ You’ll maybe even get your own Collectors Edition ©  Dogleg T-shirt!

 

I also have to say that this whole subliminal suggestion thing has worked out even better than we’d hoped. Let’s just say that next time we see you you’re going to leave with a strong desire to learn how to rebuild dashboards. ?

 

Seriously, though, keep it up and keep us all posted, it’s great to see this progress and we’re looking forward  to hearing about the next steps. ??