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Hans

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After doing Pan gasket R&R to fix leak in right rear corner, it still leaks. I've read about people "peening " the lip, or at least the bolt holes. Could someone elaborate?  Or should I find another pan?

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So this is my method others have other ways.

Set the pan flange on the edge of your work bench with the sump down just like it sits in the car I pin it there with with my belly. Take as small a ballpeen hammer and set the ball in the bolt hole then take another hammer and tap the ballpeen until the bolt hole is bent slightly outward, just tap it, the pan is soft metal repeat until you've got them all. I should mention I cover one of the hammer face with duct tape I have a aversion to striking 2 hammers together.

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/5/2022 at 9:02 PM, Son of Marty said:

So this is my method others have other ways.

Set the pan flange on the edge of your work bench with the sump down just like it sits in the car I pin it there with with my belly. Take as small a ballpeen hammer and set the ball in the bolt hole then take another hammer and tap the ballpeen until the bolt hole is bent slightly outward, just tap it, the pan is soft metal repeat until you've got them all. I should mention I cover one of the hammer face with duct tape I have a aversion to striking 2 hammers together.

Thanks. If the pan is in same position as installed, isnt it sitting on the lip on the flange?

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Yup. Yup. What happens is the pan bolts get overtightened, bend the flange inward, and the bent flange hits the block too soon, as in: before the gasket seals.  What you're doing with the ball of the hammer is re-flattening the face of the pan under the bolts so it hits all at once instead of high-centering on the indented bits under the bolts. 

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Yup, what Andy said, you can even dimple the holes slightly outward the bolts and washers will pull everything flat, as I said the oil pan metal is real soft. 

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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One other draw back to cork gaskets especially large ones, is they are "squirmy" when you tighten them they slide out of place or shape.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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21 hours ago, Preyupy said:

Also stay away from the "CORK" gaskets.  The composite gaskets don't compress at the bolt holes and you get a much better seal across the gasket.  

 

@Preyupy Do you have a composite/paper brand of M10 oil pan gasket you like, which fits? (The hole pattern was a mess on the last several paper gaskets I purchased, sent a note to vendor but received no response confirming they had or would address the issue.) -KB

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I tried the hammer method and quit.  The results are random.  I described a socket/c-clamp method before on another post and another FAQ'er had success too. 

Used a socket on the concave side and a short bolt inserted thru the hole from the convex side.  Then with a c-clamp did a cold draw of the pan to make the area around the hole flat.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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24 minutes ago, jimk said:

I tried the hammer method and quit.  The results are random.  I described a socket/c-clamp method before on another post and another FAQ'er had success too. 

Used a socket on the concave side and a short bolt inserted thru the hole from the convex side.  Then with a c-clamp did a cold draw of the pan to make the area around the hole flat.

So the bolt is pulling it flat? Can I do that in a vice I  wonder.

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