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123 Install Results...and a Surprise


2002#3

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Nick,

 

Thanks for the prompt.  I am starting to think like you (is that a dangerous thing?) and replace the cam. 

There are three reasons for my installing a new cam:  the current one is missing a chunk, a 292 would be a nice upgrade (as far as I know), and I have never worked on a head.  All good reasons and I'd love to do it. 

 

For my education, I might start a new topic:  "What are the Top 10 things to do (and be aware of) to the head and engine when the head is off and installing a new (+/- upgraded) cam"

 

Larry

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Consensus:  OK as is but...  Probably best to install a new cam.  OK with me.  I'd love to do it.  After all, the car is an educational project.  To help me, and perhaps others, I will start a new topic: 

"What are the Top 10 things to do, be aware of, and/or consider when removing the head to install a new (+/- upgraded) cam?"

Thanks for all your advice and comments.

 

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2 hours ago, mosman58 said:

Assume the 123 is fine with an automatic?

 

Yes, different curve though.  It also depends on what year and distributor you are trying to replace

 

1000 RPM - 11 to 15 Degrees  BTDC

1500 RPM - 17 to 21 Degrees BTDC

2000 RPM - 23 to 27 Degrees  BTDC

2500 RPM - 30 to 33 Degrees BTDC

2700 RPM ---

 

This is the curve for a "003" distributor.  I would set the flywheel ball (25 Degrees BTDC) at 2200 RPM and see how it performs.  The cool thing is you can change it with your phone.

 

Mark92131

1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)

 

 

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On 8/5/2019 at 8:10 AM, 2002#3 said:

Will adjust the curve and play with the 123 "tuning" function for fun and educational purposes.

 

I kind of went through the same process to work out an initial curve for my partial "Ti" setup.  With 3 curves in the Blue Book for the Ti, it was difficult to figure out where to start.  Like you, I started with the 2200 RPM, 25 Degree BTDC recommendation for the "026" distributor and worked it out from there.  The blue book curves don't always match some of the ignition valves for the same distributor.  For example is you try to map the 2200 RPM, 25 Degree BTDC value for the "026" distributor to the advance curve, it has you getting to 25 Degrees BTDC at around 1700 RPM.

 

My values are close to your values, I wanted a little more advance at idle and slightly more on the top end.

 

1000 RPM - 10 Degrees BTDC

1500 RPM - 17 Degrees BTDC

2000 RPM - 23 Degrees BTDC

2500 RPM - 28 Degrees BTDC

2700 RPM - 33 Degrees BTDC

3000 RPM - 35 Degrees BTDC

 

Mark92131

Edited by Mark92131

1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)

 

 

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7 minutes ago, mosman58 said:

 

I have one of these on my Citroen 2CV - very cool!!

 

 

Wait. What? There’s a 123Ignition distributor that fits a 2CV? Very cool is right!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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9 hours ago, 2002#3 said:

Consensus:  OK as is but...  Probably best to install a new cam.  OK with me.  I'd love to do it.  After all, the car is an educational project.  To help me, and perhaps others, I will start a new topic: 

"What are the Top 10 things to do, be aware of, and/or consider when removing the head to install a new (+/- upgraded) cam?"

Thanks for all your advice and comments.

 

 

Sign me up for that new Thread! I installed a 123 a few months ago and love it for my stock '73 with a 32/36 Weber. My curve is below. I picked up 3 nice Weber DCOE 40's (I know I only need two, but it's nice to have a spare!) and I'm dying to install them, but obviously need to redo cam and compression to get the most out of them.

 

image.png.923f3cc6d5adff7160528aa379679984.png

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Sign me up for that new Thread! I installed a 123 a few months ago and love it for my stock '73 with a 32/36 Weber. My curve is below. I picked up 3 nice Weber DCOE 40's (I know I only need two, but it's nice to have a spare!) and I'm dying to install them, but obviously need to redo cam and compression to get the most out of them.
 
image.png.923f3cc6d5adff7160528aa379679984.png


I would install the dcoes and get them sorted, many folks struggle with them. A cam and compression may help, but the basics like float level, linkage , sync, fuel pressure, cold start etc... won’t change.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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