Windshield Mounting Advice Needed

[borgpj]

OK, I have put it off long enough.  Time has come to install windshield glass.  Some questions:

1. I keep hearing bad things about the Uro seals.  Has anyone out there used them for the front or rear windshields successfully?  What advice would you give for using these seals?  I bought a set of Uro seals way back two years ago, but could bite the bullet and buy some genuine BMW seals if I have to.  I don't want to break my glass...

2. Is it easier to install the front glass with the dash out, or does the dash need to be in place prior to installing glass?  (1973 2002, with two piece dash).

Thanks...

[Stevenc22]

2. Dash doesn't really get in the way so either way will work. Did mine about 6 months ago. Used the rope trick and installed the locking strip afterwards using the tool.

[PaulTWinterton]

OEM only.  Period.   Lockstrip in first IMO.

 

Last recommendation:  get a pro to do it.  It's not an easy job.  Less than an hour for a pro.  Probably half an hour. 

[NYNick]

Do the rear first and have the rear seat out. Get someone who has done it before help; it's a two man job anyway. Use a lot of Dawn Liquid or similar lubricant mixed with water. Did I mention having someone with experience doing a job like this helps? (my son helped me. He had done his 911, but the rope trick is the rope trick) Sucky job IMO, but guys who've done it before will say "No Problem". Yeah right.

 

Use OEM seals.

I put the lock strip in afterwards. Fiddly job.

 

Took us 3 tries for both the front and the rear glass. The lock strip took me 2 hours by myself for the front with the tool, 15 minutes with a buddy for the rear and more lube. Two brains are better than one.

[albatcha]

I did it with dash in, 74 one piece dash, and I can't see how it would be any easier by having it out. If the way the seal fits is the same for the two piece, if anything I would think it might be harder to get the little rubber lip on the inside of the seal to go over the edge of the dash if you're installing the dash after the seal.

 

I was just reinstalling the seals that were already on the car, I assume they were BMW so I don't know about the UROs. When I installed mine there really wasn't too much force on the glass at any point, it even has a pretty significant chip right in the center but I removed and reinstalled without ever feeling like it would break. If I already had the URO seal I would try it and then if it's no good get the BMW seal, then it'll be easier the second time too.

 

Also I thought it was pretty easy, and it was my first time installing a windshield. Lockstrip first, I just did it by hand, tool wasn't useful. Just spread the gap and push it in.  Have your helper put light pressure in the center and where the rope is being pulled out, pull only one end of the rope at a time, overlap the rope for at least half the length of the glass. after all the rope is out give the glass a couple light smacks with your palm and it'll settle and center itself. I used a clothesline type rope. Lockstrip install 15 minutes glass install rear took 20 minutes to figure out front took just 5.

[Silver73tii]

I've done this several times, always with the rope and always with the lock strip in first.  BMW seals, but I agree with albatcha if I had the URO's I would probably try them (assuming they look identical to factory).  Must have a helper.  Ive used the windshield sealant per shop manual to minimize risk of leaks and subsequent corrosion but it is messy and you need to be careful not to get it on the headliner.  Cleans up with mineral spirits but its a mess.  Ive used 3M 08509 sealant in the rubber seal where it fits over the body metal.  Ive found its also very important to make sure your headliner is perfectly glued in place before starting because the pulling of the rubber lip over the body flange tends to pull the headliner loose.  I only use 3M weather strip adhesive.  Yellow.  The Factory shop manual pages attached. Good luck.  Its kind of fun when it pops in, assuming nothing goes wrong in the process.  Good luck

windshield insall directions.pdf

[dlacey]

I have the new URO seal in my Inka car, it leaks....cheap but useless...doesn't seal....

[PaulTWinterton]

Professionals use suction cup handles for the final centering of the glass.  Did I mention the value of using a glass guy? ?

[Healey3000]

Having just done the rear glass with excellent help from the FAQ and now starting on the front windshield, I can say a few things related to this:

1. Dash does not affect installation.  The difference for the front is that additional strip of rubber that makes it very difficult to tell whether the rubber lip is coming up over the pinch weld.  Fortunately, the lower edge is the easiest

2. Install the lockstrip first.  I can't for the life of me imagine trying to do it after installation of the glass.

3. Watch out for the A-pillar vinyl.  If the fold-over into the channel is a lot, like mine is, the rope promptly pulls the vinyl out of place and you get to start over (happened to me).  On the rear, I used contact cement to secure the vinyl to the metal and then with a razor blade, trimmed away the excess flush with the metal lip.  That way, the rope doesn't drag it off.

4. The headliner is a pain and in my case, pulled out like the A-pillar.  I will have to come up with a solution for that.  Perhaps the same approach will work.

5. When you pull in the gasket along the lower edge, tuck the gasket downwards as far as it will go by pressing it down along the entire length.  Then, and this is important, push the glass down to go with the gasket.  If you don't, it simply won't align along the top edge and you will want to gnaw off your arm in frustration.  I now have only one arm.

6. Have a "hook tool" handy.  It looks like a tapered rod with a right angle bend in it.  It is very useful for coaxing the rubber over the metal and is equally useful for removing pinching on the outside.

7.  As the gasket gets roped in, push down on the gasket from outside by pressing on the lockstrip.  I found that was very helpful to seat the gasket and bring the glass into alignment.

8. Here's an important one - to get good leverage when pushing and slamming the glass, stand on the bumper!

 

I'm really glad I did the rear first.  It gives you practice and you understand the nuances of the way the rubber behaves.  Good luck!

[borgpj]

Thanks much for all the collective wisdom.  I think I will order the OEM BMW seals.  Lesson learned.  I just finished installing the headliner, and fully agree with those who have used the 3M Yellow trim adhesive.  I clamped everything and stretched the liner till perfect, and then glued it in section by section with contact cement.  I found that even a week later, when I removed the clamps, the tight liner would slowly relax and pull away from the pinch-weld.  I ended up re-gluing the entire liner with the 3M product, which holds like crazy.  Same for the A and B pillar trim.  So now I will forge ahead into the next unknown, with the glass. 

Thanks again everyone!

[Healey3000]

Hi,

 

Is it the Yellow Trim Adhesive or the Yellow Weatherstrip Adhesive?  The former appears to come in a can, which would be a pain to use.

 

Thanks!

Edited July 29, 2019 by Healey3000

[borgpj]

3M Weatherstrip Adhesive.  Comes in a tube.  After the headliner project, my newest best friend.  

 

['76mintgrün'02]

21 minutes ago, borgpj said:

3M Weatherstrip Adhesive... my newest best friend

 

Hmm, was this your old best friend?

 

Edited July 30, 2019 by '76mintgrün'02

[Healey3000]

47 minutes ago, borgpj said:

3M Weatherstrip Adhesive.  Comes in a tube.  After the headliner project, my newest best friend.  

 

Thanks!

 

I think I have a tube of that somewhere.