Fuel pickup screen, Rusty gas tank advice needed

[BarrettN]

I knew that the '74 2002tii I recently bought had been sitting for I was told, two years. The gas gauge read empty, and I was hoping that whoever had last worked on it (it's someone's project car they never finished) had drained the tank. No such luck - it looks pretty rusty inside - and it looks like someone might have used some of the Eastwood tank sealer in it based on comparing what I see in the filler neck with pictures from a local 02 owner who was telling me about it and sent me a picture looking down the filler neck of their car.

 

On their site Eastwood states that soaking with acetone will remove their sealant - my brother suggested that a radiator shop could "boil" the tank. I've not ever had something like that done, given the scarceness of tii parts, I'm hesitant to do anything without some advice from someone who has already gone down this path.

 

And mentioning scarcity, I sprayed the fuel pickup screen in place with carb cleaner, just barely rubbed it - and it broke. It looks like this part might be NLA, can anyone confirm that?

 

Thanks,

 

Barrett 

[BarrettN]

I was looking at the wrong place online, it looks like a replacement screen is not NLS - $22, but not NLA.

[halboyles]

18 minutes ago, BarrettN said:

a radiator shop could "boil" the tank

 

You'll definitely need to get all of that failed sealant out of there.  It is rather inexpensive to have a competent radiator shop clean it and professionally seal it.  Be aware that if the joints between the halves are rusted, they probably won't even attempt to repair it.

[thinksound_mike]

google Gas Tank Renu and see if there's a location near you. They redo them to basically new and warranty the work.

[BarrettN]

Thanks, great lead - there's one about 30 miles from me (aka relatively close in Texas distances). 

[Mike A]

Save yourself some cash, an easy DIY to permanently seal the tank from further rust Go to damong.com and find the redkote product. Easy application if you have the tank out of the car. Pour the quart in and splash the stuff around.

Edited January 21, 2019 by Mike A

[halboyles]

Like any coating job, the hardest part of DIY'ing an old gas tank is the prep work.  There are lots of folk remedies for removing the rust inside (shaking with bolts, chains, rocks inside, attaching it to a cement mixer,... I've tried most).  Then you have to etch it with phosphoric acid or the like.  And it has to be perfectly clean and dry before applying any coating.  Finally you have to make sure that the coating is completely cured before filling with gas.  Mess up any of these and you end up with a coating that looks like @BarrettN's tank.  So, after that week's of work, you end up taking it to a professional anyway.

A new OEM tank sells for over a grand.  A couple of hundred to have it sealed at a reputable shop that does it everyday seems like chump change.

[Tdh]

I’ll second Hal’s advice.  Like him I’ve tried most of the products out there.  Over thirty or so tanks, I’m at about a 75% success rate (meaning 75% didn’t fail immediately).  The redkote product seems to work pretty well when you get it right.  A certain product made by a company that makes coatings intended to “paint over rust” ...I’ve not had good luck with.  I did a tank using the Eastwood product for a guys car I maintain that’s still holding up after a few years.  It’s a ton of work, and it’s pretty demotivating when the coating fails.  

 

I personally have not tried Gas Tank Renu, but ive heard good reviews from people I know who have.  Personally, if a new tank for a car I’m working on is reasonable, then I just replace the tank.    At a grand for a new ‘02 tank, I’d give Gas Tank Renu a shot.  

[2002#3]

Barrett,

 

That interior looks rather serious, indeed.  Maybe you do need a pro to remove it.  Maybe not.  Give it a try.

 

The pickup screen (16121106983) appears to be inexpensive and available from several 2002 parts suppliers.

 

Superb suggestions above.  Another DIY option is the POR-15 Fuel Tank Repair Kit (https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Repair-Kit)  $91.00.

I used it in my '74 tii with success and am extremely happy with the results 2 years later. 

 

From the POR website...

Kit Contains:

• POR-15^® Cleaner Degreaser to remove gum, sludge, varnish
• POR-15^® Metal Prep to remove rust & prepare tank for sealer
• POR-15^® Fuel Tank Sealer to permanently seal tank
• Detailed Instructions so you'll do the job right.

Hal is correct: prep, prep, and prep.  With the several steps involved and with limited access to the interior (in your case, only 3 openings in the tank), the process takes time.  Lots of time.  And muscle power - much lifting and sloshing of each liquid produce is required.  Start to finish was 5-7 days for me.  Most of the time required was (1) making SURE each step was done unquestionably correctly and completely and (2) waiting for the inside to be unquestionably COMPLETELY dry between some of the steps (moisture's departure takes time b/c it can leave via only two holes). 

 

Hints: 

• MAKE SURE the seam is in tact and does not leak.  
• If possible, do it on a series of extremely hot days.  Sorry.
• Use a hair dryer in one hole to decrease drying time. 
• You can put your hand and a cell phone into the tank to flash photo the interior and see your progress or lack of same in each step.

Photos:  #1: prepped tank with liquid sealer sloshing around; #2 and #3:  coated, dried, and finished interior.

 

Good luck.

 

Larry

 

[BarrettN]

I think I'm leaning towards the Gas Tank Renu (GTR) option at this time - I've developed a healthy respect for the staying power of rust. From what I was told the GTR folks cut any additional holes needed to media blast the inside with steel media after baking the bejesus out of it first. Then they check for leaks and patch any weak spots and bake on PVC inside and out. It's not cheap, but it sounds like it's done right. 

[jgerock]

8 hours ago, BarrettN said:

I think I'm leaning towards the Gas Tank Renu (GTR) option at this time - I've developed a healthy respect for the staying power of rust. From what I was told the GTR folks cut any additional holes needed to media blast the inside with steel media after baking the bejesus out of it first. Then they check for leaks and patch any weak spots and bake on PVC inside and out. It's not cheap, but it sounds like it's done right. 

I used the Renu route for the original tank in my 69.  My nearest location was Looper Servicenter in Rockville, MD. They did cut a hole in the corner of the tank for complete accessibility and coated the inside and bottom of the tank.  I requested the outside of the top be left alone so I could paint it black.  The exterior bottom of the tank was coated in kind of a rough undercoating that is not rubberized.  There is a serial number label on the bottom of the tank.

Inside after coating

Exterior topside with the primer they applied. Note the circular plug in the lower left hand corner.

I was frankly shocked at the final price when I picked it up $ 317.91 labor + $ 37.09 rust repair + $ 128.18 parts + $ 13.11 shop supplies = $ 496.29 total (without sales tax).  Hope I never have to pull the tank out of the car again. 

[Conserv]

2 hours ago, jgerock said:

I used the Renu route for the original tank in my 69.  My nearest location was Looper Servicenter in Rockville, MD. They did cut a hole in the corner of the tank for complete accessibility and coated the inside and bottom of the tank.  I requested the outside of the top be left alone so I could paint it black.  The exterior bottom of the tank was coated in kind of a rough undercoating that is not rubberized.  There is a serial number label on the bottom of the tank.

Inside after coating

Exterior topside with the primer they applied. Note the circular plug in the lower left hand corner.

I was frankly shocked at the final price when I picked it up $ 317.91 labor + $ 37.09 rust repair + $ 128.18 parts + $ 13.11 shop supplies = $ 496.29 total (without sales tax).  Hope I never have to pull the tank out of the car again. 

 

I don’t know, Jim. $500 all in compared to a new tank for $1,000? I’d bet this Renu tank will last as long. The patched hole in the top is no big deal: the right trunk floor is screwed down and (hopefully) is only lifted every 3 to 5 years.  I’m turned on by the product versus being turned off by the all-in price.

 

Do they straighten any dents in the bottom of the tank? Extra cost item.

 

I wonder if the entire exterior could be powder coated before or after the interior coating is applied?

 

Thanks for posting your experience, along with the photos!

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited January 22, 2019 by Conserv

[jgerock]

7 minutes ago, Conserv said:

 

I don’t know, Jim. $500 all in compared to a new tank for $1,000? I’d bet this Renu tank will last as long. The patched hole in the top is no big deal: the right trunk floor is screwed down and (hopefully) is only lifted every 3 to 5 years.  I’m turned on by the product versus being turned off by the all-in price.

 

Do they straighten any dents in the bottom of the tank? Extra cost item.

 

I wonder if the entire exterior could be powder coated before or after the interior coating is applied?

 

Thanks for posting your experience, along with the photos!

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Yes-  there were some dents on the bottom that they removed.  My original tank was in pretty good shape and had a drain out plug so I decided to use it rather than source a larger capacity one.  This sending unit was (and still is) in the 69.

 

[BarrettN]

Did you find that the added thickness of the coating interfered with the tabs of the sending unit engaging properly? 

[halboyles]

12 minutes ago, BarrettN said:

Did you find that the added thickness of the coating interfered with the tabs of the sending unit engaging properly? 

 

I did one tank with POR15 inside and out and it did require sanding down some of the coating to have the sending unit seat properly.  Since that area rarely rusts I didn't consider it a problem.  The mounting holes also had to be re-rounded slightly to allow the bolts through.  I should say that I tend to do two coats of POR15 and then two coats of finishing paint to protect from UV which results in a thick coating layer.