Single stage paint vs. double: Which looks "better?"

[larryt]

2 stage 100%. youll get a better finish and be more happy with the outcome, i would be worried that after all that time and effort and money of doing a 2k style job, that you might not be that happy with the outcome. if you go "ballz deep" with a good 2 stage job,at least you know youre going to get the finish you are looking for rather than hoping a single stage gives a similar look.

i had mine painted with a 2 stage and very happy with how the paint looks, wasnt overly expensive just found a good painter who was willing to put some effort in for me.

Edited April 25, 2018 by larryt
added photo

[D Seattle]

Verona.  Planning on keeping it that way.  Does not seem to have the same depth as my '87 325 ic that was "cinnabar." 

[AlfaBMWGuy]

Based on a recent post Dan made to the Pacific Northwest forum, his car is Verona and he's looking to keep it the original color. I'm interested in this topic as I'm planning to repaint my 1971 Granada in the original color this coming winter.  I want my Granada to look Granada and not brighter Verona or other more common shades of red so 1 vs. 2 stage is one of my concerns.  I.e., would something as vintage/period as Granada (produced only from 1963-1971 I believe) ever look right as 2-stage?

 

Dan was also saying he budgeted about $5K for the paint, but then said he was willing to go higher. I'm thinking my paint work alone will be in the $10K range (with some other minor work added onto that) even though I'm not looking for a show car either.

 

Gary

[Glen Karr]

Glasurut two stage 1989 repaint Verona.  Looks as good today as the day I picked it up from the painter.  I keep it garaged.

[D Seattle]

6 minutes ago, Glen Karr said:

Glasurut two stage 1989 repaint Verona.  Looks as good today as the day I picked it up from the painter.  I keep it garaged.

Glen, that is a beautiful car.  Looks like it could be a brother of mine.   Is that in tricites?

 

Yes, I have been disabused of my original budget.  Been a long time since I had a car painted.  Thanks all.

Edited April 25, 2018 by Dan Seattle
Added name

[Glen Karr]

Dan,

Thanks Dan.  I'm the original owner and have tried my best to keep it original and in great shape.  I'm located in Charlotte, NC which is south west of the Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill research triangle.

In '89 complete strip and repaint was about $3000.  Hate to see what it is now.

Good luck.

Best,

Glen

 

[David Layton]

On ‎4‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 12:27 PM, Glen Karr said:

Glasurut two stage 1989 repaint Verona.  Looks as good today as the day I picked it up from the painter.  I keep it garaged. 

This is great to see.  The car looks magnificent.  My body shop is very comfortable with BASF/Glasurit 2 stage paint and the local BASF Mixer has no issues with 041 Atlantik ("A lot of black in this one!" he said)  Using BASF/Glasurit mix should be a darker, more accurate paint than what is on the car now.   So I am really encouraged as to how the 2 stage interpretation of an original color is likely to come out!  We are going to do the stripping of the car (trim, interior, glass, items in trunk and engine bay), minor dent work and sanding.  The body shop will do the finish work needed on any of the imperfections, priming and paint this winter.

Edited July 31, 2018 by David Layton

[joebarthlow]

it's pretty easy... non-metallic you go single stage. metallics go base/clear. 

Edited July 31, 2018 by joebarthlow

[TobyB]

I disagree. 

Single stage is good for jambs,

if you're painting it yourself and have limited booth time,

and not much else.

It's easy to tint the clear, 

if you're that obsessive.

 

ALL colors are 'interpretations' these days.

 

t

glossy.

AND durable.

 

[Vicleonardo1]

Well, my worthless take: It may depend on how much maintenance you wish to deal with. 

 

Single stage seems to be pretty, nice and seems to require more elbow grease to keep it that way. 

2 stage, possibly not as nice or deep, but a little more bullet proof? 

 

Wet sanding may get you an awesome look for either approach, but it is expensive. (Unless you wish to travel to Tijuana) 

Today it seems a lot are adding a pearl sheen to the paint, to more or less, hide swirl and scratch marks. Seems to do that for my Black Audi. 

 

For reference: My 2002 paint job is bad. My body person did great on the rust repairs, but very marginal on matching paint. Current estimate for a re-paint with a partial prep (all the trim is removed): $5000 and for most places, that is the cost of the paint itself. 

 

Had to pass on the deal, just going to live with a patchwork look until my funds return. 

 

Find a painter with an excellent rep. Give them your expectations,  and go with his/her recommendation. 

[Tdh]

Not gonna write a book about my experience or background, and not gonna poke out my chest in print.  Let's just say I can paint a car and leave it at that.  My guess is that you'd have trouble telling the difference between single and base/clear.  

 

If your color is metallic, go with a base/clear all day long.  On a fine mettalic job, your painter probably won't give you a choice anyway.  Find a painter that uses a good quality system (no off brands), and be done with it.  Discuss ahead of time what you expect from the painter.  Don't assume anything.  If you're after a baby butt smooth cut and buff finish you need to say so (price goes up!).  If all your're after is a "right out of the gun" job with a little noticeable orange peel (no cut and buff) then say so.  

 

Single stage can be a good system, but many guys just aren't set up to shoot it, and many younger guys haven't ever done a single stage job.  Depending on where you are, you may have a hard time finding a painter willing to do single stage  anyway.  

 

I can do jambs with single or base/clear.  I don't understand the issue here. 

 

Last comment.  Either system can fail if done poorly.  

 

 

Edited July 31, 2018 by Tdh

[Healey3000]

There may be a way to have your cake and eat it too, sort of.

 

With PPG's single stage paint (DCC for example, which I had researched extensively a few years ago), their tech line offered an interesting approach.  They suggested I add 50% clear to the final coat of DCC.  The result is more depth, durability and gloss without it looking "wrong" for the period.  It also won't fail like a true clear coat.

[Tdh]

19 minutes ago, Healey3000 said:

There may be a way to have your cake and eat it too, sort of.

 

With PPG's single stage paint (DCC for example, which I had researched extensively a few years ago), their tech line offered an interesting approach.  They suggested I add 50% clear to the final coat of DCC.  The result is more depth, durability and gloss without it looking "wrong" for the period.  It also won't fail like a true clear coat.

Really good recommendation.  Since his color is Verona, it'll come out great.  Reds do really well mixing some base into the clear.  

[TobyB]

Quote

My guess is that you'd have trouble telling the difference between single and base/clear.  

 

For the first couple years.  Agreed.  The single looks very good.

 

but.

 

The 2 stage systems hold up a lot better over time.  Single- staging the jambs saves the flash, gun clean and reshoot times, is all.

 

I have used a LOT of DCC single- and none has held up very well outside.  For a garage queen it no matter.

 

Once I started using DCC clear, it's been holding up a lot better.  The difference between 2-3 years and 15, for me.

 

For a car that sits outside much, if any, the clear is a lot more durable.

 

More chip- resistant too, it seems.

 

And yes, blending a bit of single color into the clear looks really good, too.

 

In my experience.

 

Done as well,

t

with oxidized DCC single stage cars in blue, green and purple.

Edited July 31, 2018 by TobyB

[Tdh]

TobyB,

 

Agreed on all points. 

 

Should have clarified, but my comment about not being able to tell the difference was meant to mean on a newly painted car.