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AlfaBMWGuy

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Everything posted by AlfaBMWGuy

  1. I will take it. PM coming your way. Thanks, Gary
  2. I'm thinking this must be for a later year 2002 since the middle area does not have pleats? To confirm, this is the back section of the rear seat, not the bottom or base section? If so, this should be gobbled up by someone for that price since so many cars esp. out west get UV damage where the top dries up and disintegrates from sun beating down through the rear window over decades.
  3. Who doesn't need a Snob 100 cassette recorder in their BMW? Sounds like the epitome of yuppie before the term even existed 😎
  4. BWA (see center caps). Looks like you need to spend some time on the FAQ wheels database: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/wheels/bmw2002/page/2/?d=5 -Gary
  5. Wow, gorgeous. You won't need any luck for a good result with bidding over $20K in just a few hours. -Gary
  6. Harder to find is definitely the case. More difficult to maintain I'd say is not the case. Through the ever expanding knowledge housed by the FAQ, upstanding vendors such as Blunttech, Esty, and Ireland Engineering, as well as the great majority of private sellers on the FAQ, it seems much easier to maintain these than back in the pre-internet early 1990s when I bought my first. @FunElan, you're a couple decades too young to have that perspective. I will add that @mike's '02 Cents Worth Roundel columns from back in the day and through the years as well as other assorted Roundel articles were extremely valuable in their own right. Compared to the internet though and even the FAQ alone, those are more like a cool drink from a water fountain than the internet fire hose.
  7. I am putting my confidence in @HBChris who judged this car in person regarding the paint and overall quality of work. That's huge compared to seeing only pics regardless of the resolution, lighting, etc.
  8. Maybe not the $41.5K + BaT buyer's premium this thing went for, but saying this is only worth $10K is silly. You may be hoping for a market/economy reset that would make that so, but in the current market, this is easily a $30K 2002 to a lot of collectors and enthusiasts. You'd be lucky to be able to do show quality paint like this on a rust-free car you already own and nothing else for $10K.
  9. Although I've got no horse in this race (other than being one of the majority who would love a crack-free dash for a fair price), I want to speak up for @PaulTWinterton. The proper etiquette to keep for sale listings fair is that the first to post their definite interest to the public thread should get first crack (no pun intended 🙂) at it--assuming they are willing to pay the full asking price along with shipping and PayPal fees incurred by the seller. That post in the public thread should really say more than "PM'd" which is ambiguous as to the level of interest, and Paul did this with his "first dibs" reply. I personally tend to use "I'll take this. Sending a PM." to keep it short but clear to others. The potential buyer who posts to the thread should always send a PM within a few minutes to establish direct communication, let the seller know where it will be shipped to get an estimate for that, and ask any specific questions. Those who only send a PM and don't reply to the thread should fall behind those who post to the thread unless the seller replies to their own thread that there is a pending sale from a PM before there is someone who claims it in the thread. In this case it's clear that Paul should be given the right of first refusal after seeing a reasonable number of pics, before anyone who only sent a PM. All the better in making the world right in this case, Paul has expressed in multiple threads over an extended period how much he'd like to find a lower dash in great condition that lives up to the condition of the rest of his '73 Tii. -Gary
  10. Hi Chris, I don't think there is a significant difference between your feelings and what Andrew and I have stated. I think the smoothness of the BMW M10 doesn't encourage the same sort "urges" to drive the car aggressively as the more "rough and tumble" (rorty would be another word for it) Alfa DOHC Nord engine. I've owned 4 E30 BMWs. The M20 baby six in the 325i/is/iX is sewing machine smooth while making a bunch of torque and power. Yet, it's my M42 318is and my former S14 M3 that want to be driven harder than the 6-cylinder E30s. With the M20 and to a bit lesser degree the M10, there is no work on your part to get that smooth rush of power, just push the pedal. With the M3 S14, as well as the Alfa Nord, you have to be more deliberate. I suspect going to dual Webers in a 2002 changes the character to encourage more enthusiastic driving by taking away some of that smoothness of the single carb 2002 and injected tii as much as it actually increases power. It's a playful vs. serious contrast. In general, certainly not a hard-and-fast rule, Italian cars fall on the playful side while German cars fall on the serious side. -Gary
  11. With stock seats (including a good spring frame suspension and horsehair pads that aren't worn out on a 2002) like I have on both my 2002 and Giulia Super, the commanding view out is one of the best features of both in my opinion. With my '74 GTV, it always seemed like a form over function compromise. Too close to sitting on the ground and looking out of a bathtub for my taste--nothing compared to a lot of modern cars though. At 5'8", I couldn't even set the inside mirror to effectively see traffic behind me--I was either looking at the ground right behind the car if it was aligned to the rear window or half looking at the headliner of the inside of my GTV if I bumped it up enough to see cars behind me. But, all was solved with the Giulia sedan, which I've always said is function over form instead of the other way around as I found the GTV, and I think the handling of the 4-door was just as good as the GTV even though the latter is considered the "sporty coupe". Definitely the steering on the 2002 is heavier and feels a bit more numb than the Alfa, which is a big part of why I said the 2002 is not as "on its toes" as a Giulia Super. I also give the edge in braking to the Alfa. Transmission comes down to driver preference--short, smooth, but a bit more sloppy throws in the 2002 vs. long, precise, but a bit more notchy in the Alfa. Again, that's without worn synchros that are common in both. Your comments on the engine in each are spot on in my experience Andrew. -Gary
  12. Congrats and welcome Andrew. Happy to see our long-time AlfaBB sedan guru here. I'm a long-time Alfa sedan (imported a '73 Giulia Super with the help of an AlfaBB contact in Belgium back in 2007 after owning a '74 GTV a few years prior) , BMW 2002, and BMW E30 enthusiast. I'm an occasional poster both here and the AlfaBB. Back when I was considering an Alfa sedan, on the AlfaBB I asked for driving comparisons with a 2002 since I'd owned a couple of those. Your experience back then at least was that 2002s were like driving a little tank, but hopefully that was just the ones you had experienced--think you had a nephew you had one. I admit they aren't quite as "on their toes" as a Giulia, but still one of the very best sport sedans of their era, or any era I would say. Like the whole of the vintage Alfa community, one of the very best things about a 2002 is the quality of the people who support them, a high percentage of them right here on the FAQ. Here's my current 2002 and Giulia pairing: -Gary
  13. That's a really clean looking Sahara square light car. Well done on finding what you were looking for!
  14. Ah, sounds like then that the seller was adamant that he get his asking price and finally compromised to the market value. Plus, if he has been trying to sell for 3 years, the market value did come up in that time (ignoring that he would have got a better return selling years ago at a lower price and putting the proceeds into the stock market).
  15. Price might be a tad on the high side, but $8-9K is several years behind the market for these when they aren't projects in some way. I can understand not selling for that period at $20K, but at $16.5K I'd expect the seller to take $15K cash without hesitation with it being on the market that long. So, my hunch is that there are some undisclosed issues that aren't being mentioned in the description and hidden in pictures.
  16. Looking through the pics (link is still up), this seems like a reasonably market correct price to me--$16,500. Below $10K would have been a price from several years ago for a car that is solid (not show car, but very good driver condition) cosmetically inside and outside, as well as mechanically sorted like this one appears to be. I'm assuming there is no major undisclosed rust of course. If this was a roundie in the same condition, I'd say closer to $20K. It this were being sold in the spring on BringATrailer, it should easily have brought his asking price.
  17. By the way, thanks to Chris' keen eye, my ballast resistor is no longer part of the circuit with my blue coil. The resistor is still attached to the fender for the correct factory look, but the wire leads aren't connected. I suspect I never noticed this original owner modification before because my Pertronix electronic ignition was able to deal better with the reduced spark than points would have. -Gary
  18. Thanks @HBChris. Here is a reverse angle shot of my coil and ballast resistor setup. My car seems to run and drive fine in the two years I've owned it regarding ignition, but if there are improvements to be had, I'm all for it. Do I just want to jumper the leads to the ballast resistor together to bypass it, or is there a bit more to it than that? Let me know if more pics are needed to determine that. Thanks, Gary
  19. Here's a better shot of the steering wheel. I've done quite a bit to the interior since the pic including replacing the ugly door speakers with something more period appropriate, replacing the modern CD player with a period Blaupunkt, and replacing the worn tan Coco mats with new red/black, replacing the worn clutch and brake pedal covers, adding the missing e-brake grip, and replacing both seat bases. Both are actually mismatched embossing and they didn't match each other either. You can see the cracks on the dash, but it's more spendy to replace or fix that than I can justify at this point. Replacing the dingy carpets I think will make a huge difference now that the upholstery is squared away.
  20. Yes, it's a 1971 model year built on October 22, 1970 based on info from BMW. The chassis is #1677187. I like the pre-71 styling features inside and out vs. the Model '71 so that was one of the reasons I jumped on this in addition to it not being rusty and being kept largely original vs. most of them. The original owner bought it in Boise when he was 25 and sold it to me when he was 71, still in Boise. My first 2002 was a late 1971 so it was the facelift model of course. This Granada one also has the original "ti" sport steering wheel, which is cool to have. The original owner put a leather cover over it, now quite patina'd itself, and I've never taken it off. I assume he put it on because the original, which I believe is a "pleather" is showing wear. I've turned this into a 3-season nice weather driver that I drive to work on a daily basis--I live in an area without much heavy commute traffic making that more reasonable.
  21. Thanks Chris. The original owner of my '02 at some point installed a Pertronix ignition. Does that make a difference? I assume you are talking about the white plastic cased component that is clipped to the fender? Can I just unplug it even with Pertronix and will that improve drivability in some way even with Pertronix?
  22. Thanks Steve. Here's a couple more pics. You can see a little split in my seat back along a pleat, but that doesn't bother me like having the embossing of a VW Beetle seat for my driver's seat base (not that I don't love VW bugs), which you can see in the very first post in this thread if you click on the pic to enlarge. Next, it's on to the carpet (see wear next to gas pedal) as the culmination of my interior work (living with the 3 cracks on the dash for now) and at least the FAQ board is fortunate to have a great source for those with Esty.
  23. To close out this thread, this weekend I finally got correct basketweave driver's seat base vinyl installed on my '02! Below are a couple pics of the finished product. Thanks especially to Bruce @m-tuner for supplying the driver's seat base vinyl piece that let me finish off the work on all my seats front and back. Original driver's seat base vinyl is definitely hard to source, several months in my case, when you need the whole piece rather than sewing in new basketweave vinyl in the center section. Thanks, Gary
  24. I wanted to circle back on this thread as this weekend I finally got the correct basketweave driver's seat base vinyl installed on my '02! Below is the pic of the final result. So it took re-purposing a passenger seat base spring frame to turn it into a driver's spring frame, finding a good used horsehair pad (thanks @Guy Cocquyt), and then finding a good original vinyl upholstery piece (thanks @m-tuner). I've now got correct and very nice basketweave on all my seats front and back (thanks also to @jerryasi for the passenger seat and to @JordanBbradley for the rear seat vinyl). Looking at my list of people to thank and then at least that number I was communicating with, but ultimately didn't have what I was looking for, I realize what a big undertaking this was. Original driver's seat base vinyl is definitely the hardest to source, several months in my case, when you need the whole piece rather than sewing in new basketweave in the center section. Thanks as well to those who provided advice in this thread. I did contact GAHH and got a basketweave sample by mail. If I was re-doing my full interior, it would definitely be the way to go. But, even though they use the correct basketweave embossing, it would stand out more than I wanted to just replace the driver's seat base vinyl on my otherwise original interior. Their embossing is deeper and more defined than factory original--too good if that makes sense. I've used GAHH for some replacement E30 upholstery though and you definitely get what you pay for with their work. Thanks, Gary
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