Mongrel 1600 and the latest mystery (half shaft content)

[jgerock]

Car looks more like Nevada than Bristol. Nice set of Cosmic rims too! Welcome to the early car club.

[Hans]

As above, check the bolt holes in the flanges. If evenly spaced (or if they have 10 holes) you can just bolt in later CV shafts . Getting those boots over T end is a pig.

[mopydick]

Thanks everybody for being so welcoming and quick to share so much information.

I'll take the half shafts out this weekend and inspect the flange bolt holes to document what I really have.

 

And I'll take some pictures of the engine for some subsequent identification.  I believe its just a stock 318 1.8L from its performance.  This being my 1st BMW, I'm really impressed with the engineering - very smooth engine, linear torque, great mileage, no smoke, no leaks, no reliability issues.  What more could you want?

 

Peter

 

[Conserv]

On 2/21/2018 at 2:14 PM, Hans said:

...Getting those boots over T end is a pig.

 

+1

 

And I never had a boot last more than 8,000 miles on my '67. During the years I owned it (1975-76), every single replacement boot produced apparently had a visible weak spot: a ridge with an adjacent thin area.  And the boots all failed along that line.  It was as if no one at BMW ever inspected the replacement boots and they just kept cranking out replacements with the same defect.

 

By the way, Peter, I’m not so certain I’d be quick to label this car a mongrel, despite the 318 engine and square taillight nosepiece.  The body and trim look great.  Twin swan’s neck mirrors!  Enjoy it!  If you, or a subsequent owner wants to swap out the engine or nosepiece for more original pieces, easily done.  But you’re keeping the car alive and in good repair by simply driving it.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

Edited February 27, 2018 by Conserv

[mopydick]

Found an hour to take one half shaft out, and disassemble.  Difficult to photograph an oil covered, shiny surface, but I suppose that's good news that the surfaces were oil covered and shiny.  I didn't see any galling or other terrible damage.  The bluing from the over heating isn't a good sign but maybe I'm servicing these joints just in time ...

 

I'll try to take better photos next week (I get to work on the car once a week).  Hopefully, the other half shaft isn't any worse off than this one.

 

Oh, and someone asked about the number of bolts on the end flanges - as you can see from the pix, there are 6 per flange clustered in groups of three's.  I wonder why not have them symmetrically distributed around the flange?

 

Peter

 

 

[HBChris]

Just don’t lose any of those needle bearings!

[TobyB]

The discoloration on the sockets is surface hardening.  BMW liked that, back then.

 

Others will know better, but I don't see anything too ugly there..

t

 

[andyleonard]

If there's nothing that will catch your fingernail inside the big part where the buttons go, I think with a new boot you're good to go. Check (and don't lose) the needles. Also make sure the U-joint at the other end is still happy. THEN buy boots.

 

You can come back and tell us the bad words you said when putting the boots on. Heh.

[mopydick]

Speaking of new boots - this is one of those items I would like to order directly from BMW.  Is there a BMW dealership with a good parts department that is sympathetic and knowledgeable about the older BMW's.  I'd rather pay a bit more for the boots and get the right material and fit, than trying to save a few dollars with an aftermarket boot.

 

Thanks for any recommendations!

 

Peter

[HBChris]

You aren’t going to find aftermarket for these.  Looks like available again:

2

33213614150

$25.09

 

Take this number to your dealer.

Edited February 27, 2018 by HBChris

[mopydick]

Thanks Chris for the PN - you are saving me a bunch of time.

 

I could buy them at my local dealer or is there a favorite dealership in the 2002 world that I should be supporting?

 

Peter

 

[Slavs]

Those half shafts are a good design. I believe they have the grease nipples on the u joint end. I eventually replaced them with the newer style half - shafts on my 1600s. I've noticed that most of the long neck diffs are drilled to accept both styles, but I've also seen some long necks that only accept the early style half shafts. I wouldn't replace a long neck diff with a short neck. The long neck is a better design where you can actually replace the seal behind the yoke without worrying about the crush collar as you would on the short neck. The long neck also holds more oil which is better for cooling, And, it is heavier, which is good as that is exactly where you want the extra weight on the 02. The 4.10 should work really well with the 1.8 from the 318 which is a short stroke motor. If you ever feel compelled to try a 3.64, you got to hunt down a 3.64 long neck from a 68 or early 69 2002. But, I wouldn't do that with the 318 motor. That is a really nice combination you have on the car. Your car also looks very clean. I would take care of it.

[ray_]

On 2/27/2018 at 10:53 AM, mopydick said:

Thanks Chris for the PN - you are saving me a bunch of time.

 

I could buy them at my local dealer or is there a favorite dealership in the 2002 world that I should be supporting?

 

Peter

 

 

 

blunttech.com

 

btw if you go to realoem you can find all the part numbers

 

Cheers,