KF Fuel Injection Pump - Questions

[rapandi]

Hi Team,

 

1) I have been dismantling my engine today. When I arrived at the KF Pump I removed the two hoses connecting to the warm up regulator. As I pulled out the hoses I saw they were just clogged. I doubt any fluid was even getting to the regulator. But i noticed the tips of the inlet/outlet spouts of the regulator have suffered damaged. They have lost material. I am a little unsure how I should fix this? Do I look for another regulator (don't like my chances), can I take it to a shop to weld more 'meat' to the spouts or should I just leave it the way it is?

 

 

2) I have read the blue book and the haynes manual on how to remove the KF pump. I have aligned the aluminium sprocket to TDC. The 'V' shaped notch in the crank pulley is lined up with the projection on the belt cover. The books then say to undo the pump sprocket nut. Surely if I apply a torque to the sprocket nut the crank pulley will move too right? So does that mean someone needs to hold the crank pulley in place using a ratchet while I unscrew the sprocket? I don't want to bend the crank in the KF pump hence the question.

3) Finally can I use just an ordinary off the shelf pulley extractor to pull off the sprocket?

 

Any advice is much appreciated.

 

Regards

 

Raj

 

 

 

[dlacey]

1) very difficult to repair, expensive to replace...was it working?? Doesn't look like it saw much coolant flow. If the car runs ok without it in your climate then you could isolate it. It can be dismantled to enable welding of the body if you find expert welder.

2) yes, hold the pulley still by jamming a pry bar thru the hole against the bolt heads behind.

3) don't mount a puller against the rim of the pulley, it could crack or pull the steel guide off the back edge. Find or modify a puller to reach thru the two holes to apply force as close as possible to the centre.

[PaulTWinterton]

1) My guess is that your WUR will have to be replaced.  Crud you can see will be throughout the bottom and contaminating the rubber seal inside as well as the metal parts.   A replacement would be cheaper than a fix IMO.  You could make a request in parts wanted.

 

2) Once you have lined up TDC on the crank pulley and the KFish sprocket, you can remove the KFish belt.  The KFish pump can then be turned without worry.  It's only when you replace it, that you re-align the KFish sprocket mark with the crank pulley at TDC.  As stated by dlacey: removing the 17mm nut can be achieved with a breaker bar and socket, while inserting any solid metal tool through one of the sprocket holes to lock the sprocket against one the bolt heads behind it.  When replacing the KFish remember to get the proper torque values for the bolts.

 

3) I bought a medium-sized  2-3 arm puller from an auto parts store.   Also works great for removing the crankshaft sprocket.  Again, as dlacey states, hook through 2 holes with the puller. 

 

 

Edited November 4, 2017 by PaulTWinterton

[jimk]

Whatever the history of maintaining the cooling system, it wasn't the right one by the looks of all the deposits in the timing cover with the pump removed.

[Son of Marty]

Yes someone ran that car for a good long time with out antifreeze in it I would try to find a replacement wor or contact one of the k-fish rebuilders about repair to the one you have if it can even be disassembled, be prepared to find similar damage to the cylinder head when you get it off

[PaulTWinterton]

Also, you can see blue coolant seeping from the bottom edge of the WUR (and around the frost plugs on the block).

Edited November 4, 2017 by PaulTWinterton

[rapandi]

3 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

Also, you can see blue coolant seeping from the bottom edge of the WUR (and around the frost plugs on the block).

Forgive my inexperience but what does that signify to you? The WUR is leaking at the bottom? Or there is a leak somewhere? 

[rapandi]

7 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Yes someone ran that car for a good long time with out antifreeze in it I would try to find a replacement wor or contact one of the k-fish rebuilders about repair to the one you have if it can even be disassembled, be prepared to find similar damage to the cylinder head when you get it off

Yeah I am keen to seen what the cylinder head looks like ... (nervous). I will post an update soon 

[rapandi]

7 hours ago, jimk said:

Whatever the history of maintaining the cooling system, it wasn't the right one by the looks of all the deposits in the timing cover with the pump removed.

Yeah Jim the PO didn't use proper antifreeze from the looks of it. Thanks for the input. Let's see how the rest of the engine is on inside ...

[PaulTWinterton]

28 minutes ago, rapandi said:

The WUR is leaking at the bottom?

 

Yes.  If you look closely at the WUR it appears the bottom is pressed in, not part of the casting.

[rapandi]

47 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

Yes.  If you look closely at the WUR it appears the bottom is pressed in, not part of the casting.

Wow I would have never guessed that. Thanks mate. Another piece to the puzzle. 

[jgerock]

I have seen corrosion like this before. Now look at the coolant branch bolted to the cylinder head. Those can get completely blocked.