engine and drivetrain Replacing Diff Output Seals Help

[peterschop]

I'm replacing my differential output seals that have the flange with the bolt in the center holding it in. I removed the bolt and the flange lifted right out. No puller needed. To re install, the Haynes book says "apply thread locking compound to the splines of the driving flange and refit". What should I use? Red Locktite? I can clean the gear lube off the flange splines but it looks like it will be hard to clean the splines it goes into. Will the locking compound even work and do I really need it?

 

TIA - Peter

[peterschop]

Well, should I put loctite on the splines of the driving flange before I put it back in the diff today?

[eurotrash]

I don't know if you can dry out the inside splines enough for the goo to take effect.  It seems redundant.  You have axles over the bolts that hold in the shaft...  The shafts are not going anywhere.  Just put it together.

[jireland2002]

I don't use locktite and have never had a problem

Jeff

[peterschop]

I thought it sounded redundant also but I wanted a second opinion. As well as the axle over the flange, the center bolt should have 80 ft lbs of torque on it. The e21's don't call for thread locking compound. They have a circlip holding the flange instead of the center bolt.

[Stevenc22]

The 4 outer flange bolts need loctite since they are through bolts and you will get a oil leak if you don't loctite them.

[peterschop]

The 4 outer flange bolts need loctite since they are through bolts and you will get a oil leak if you don't loctite them.

 

Oh, your right, the flange bolts are through bolts. They have wave washers on them so do I need a thread locker or just a thread sealant?

[Stevenc22]

I used loctite on mine, but clean the threads with a ear bud and alcohol!

[TobyB]

And you can loctite the center bolt too, just for grins.

 

I have never seen loctite on the splines, though...

 

t

[peterschop]

I put in the new seals and o-rings in today. No loctite on the splines but I did put blue loctite on the four flange seal cover bolts and the center bolt too, just for grins. I also found the crown wheel set numbers on the side of the housing under all the old dirt and grime. Even after cleaning everything off, it was hard to read. 11  40.

Edited April 11, 2014 by peterschop

[MildSeven]

Im in the middle of changing the output seals (as well). I dont seem to have any bolt in the middle of the flange. Do I simply need to remove the 4 bolts around the ring behind the flange and use some type of puller?

Any advice is welcome

Thanks dudes

[Guest_anonymous]

the '76 flange has a circlip retainer on the splined end inside of the case. remove the diff cover to gain access.

[Kidasters]

I don't like red loctite.  You need to heat things really hot to get red to let go.  Blue is what I would use.

[MildSeven]

the '76 flange has a circlip retainer on the splined end inside of the case. remove the diff cover to gain access.

 

thanks,

 

I pulled the cover off don't see any circlips

 

here's a photo... a lil more help please

[Buckeye]

Yup, you wouldn't see circlips from cover end. Need to pry the flange out.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1592551-320is-Diff-Rebuild-(Pic-heavy)