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Keeping rear side windows open at speed


EddyM

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This may be elsewhere in the forum but I tried searching for posts related to the rear side windows and didn't find anything - apologies if it duplicates something already posted.

Anyone else out there who can’t keep his rear windows flipped open while doing more than 30 mph no matter how much you tighten down those knobs on the latches? I got tired of the windows blowing shut when I hit about 30 mph and have solved my problem for less than $5.00.

Solution: the knobs have small holes for set screws. They’re threaded for M3X.5 screws – really tiny little things. You’ll need two of them about four mm in length (I got 6-mm long screws and they stick out just a little from the side of the knob). You’ll also need a pair of wave washers that fit over the threaded portion of the bolt that goes through the latch pivot. I found the local Fastenal store had both the set screws (in a choice of 3/4/5/6/8/10 mm lengths) and the correct size wave washers. The set screws take a 1.5-mm allen wrench, which they also had. I had to buy 10 of the screws and 10 of the washers (they sell them only in poly bags of 10) plus the allen wrench.

Once home, it took about 10 minutes to install the pieces and tighten down the knobs; a test drive at speeds up to 90 mph confirmed I’d got it right.

Procedure: Take the knob off, insert a set screw loosely, drop a wave washer over the threaded portion of the bolt, put the knob back on, tighten it down until there’s a lot of friction in the pivot, then anchor the knob in place with the set screw. Test drive. If the windows still blow shut, loosen the set screw, tighten the knob another quarter turn, tighten the set screw, and test again. Repeat until the windows stay open. The set screw keeps the knob from backing off as you open and close the window, so you don’t lose the adjustment. The wave washer adds enough friction to the movement that it’ll stay where it’s set.

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive, well-preserved body. You should skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, martini in the other, body totally used up, screaming "WOO HOO! What a ride!!"

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OK - wasn't aware of that. I have a '73.

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive, well-preserved body. You should skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, martini in the other, body totally used up, screaming "WOO HOO! What a ride!!"

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Mine don't fall shut when you push the windows all the way out above the turning point of the hinges and a small bit back so that the hinges don't make an arrow to the front but to the rear. Then the hinges can't go further in and so do your windows.

+1

on all the various years i have had, there is a point you push the latch to that locks the windows open.

2xM3

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Assuming that you are talking about the rear quarter windows, the knob is a thumb screw that locks the window on all models. It may be frozen from lack of use. With some careful attention, you can get them cracked loose and working proper. Once you get the knob turning, you can lock them open.

2002 newbie, and dead serious about it.
(O=o00o=O)
Smart Audio Products for your 2002

 

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Common.

It's always fun to hear them "THWUMP" shut as you are driving down the freeway.

Check the parts diagram on RealOEM. Is there a wave washer in the assembly? Could have lost it's springiness.

If no wave washer, then try to snug down the flat blade screw on the top. It may be a little tricky to get a good angle on the screw driver, just make sure it doesn't slip and mar the screw. I'd give it a few drops of penetrating oil for a few days first. I't probably siezed. You don't want to snap one and have to replace it- $$.

Steve J

72 tii / 83 320is / 88 M3 / 08 MCS R55 / 12 MC R56

& too many bikes

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Common.

It's always fun to hear them "THWUMP" shut as you are driving down the freeway.

Check the parts diagram on RealOEM. Is there a wave washer in the assembly? Could have lost it's springiness.

If no wave washer, then try to snug down the flat blade screw on the top. It may be a little tricky to get a good angle on the screw driver, just make sure it doesn't slip and mar the screw. I'd give it a few drops of penetrating oil for a few days first. I't probably siezed. You don't want to snap one and have to replace it- $$.

I looked at RealOEM (and I have a complete parts manual at home) and both showed a washer, but neither diagram was clear enough to tell if it was a wave washer or just a flat washer. When I took my pivot bolts apart to see what was there, I found only the two knobs and two threaded bolts - no set screws and no washers of any kind. I opted for a wave washer on each because they're very thin and the springiness of them provides good tension. Replacing the set screws was a no-brainer.

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive, well-preserved body. You should skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, martini in the other, body totally used up, screaming "WOO HOO! What a ride!!"

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Real easy method without messing with the hinges is to cut a short piece of roll bar padding and slit it so it fits over the opened hinge. Roger Bensen of NY was running his Malaga '72 this way on the way to V@V 2008. I thought it was a neat idea.

Wonder if you could cut a section from a kid's "noodle" pool toy?

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Common.

It's always fun to hear them "THWUMP" shut as you are driving down the freeway.

Check the parts diagram on RealOEM. Is there a wave washer in the assembly? Could have lost it's springiness.

If no wave washer, then try to snug down the flat blade screw on the top. It may be a little tricky to get a good angle on the screw driver, just make sure it doesn't slip and mar the screw. I'd give it a few drops of penetrating oil for a few days first. I't probably siezed. You don't want to snap one and have to replace it- $$.

I looked at RealOEM (and I have a complete parts manual at home) and both showed a washer, but neither diagram was clear enough to tell if it was a wave washer or just a flat washer. When I took my pivot bolts apart to see what was there, I found only the two knobs and two threaded bolts - no set screws and no washers of any kind. I opted for a wave washer on each because they're very thin and the springiness of them provides good tension. Replacing the set screws was a no-brainer.

When I disassembled mine (black late style), there was a small paper-ish washer, in a small recess, that provided friction between the parts when the knob was tightened..

2002 newbie, and dead serious about it.
(O=o00o=O)
Smart Audio Products for your 2002

 

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Guest Anonymous

that's what maps are for - at least before GPS, when we had maps: roll them up and wedge them in the forward crack to keep the window open. In the early days, the knob was all chrome, with no locking mechanism.

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Tennis balls. Im not joking ya. I put tennis balls on strings to hold my windows out!

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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atop the hinge--same as used on the squarelights. 73's built before about Feb and earlier cars have an all-chrome hinge with a ball atop the hinge. the ball is actually a decorative screw with a very thin slot for an equally thin screwdriver blade.

On these hinges, you merely need to tighten the screw to keep the window from blowing shut. I've noticed I have to re-tighten mine about once a year to keep 'em open.

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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