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jdamm

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Everything posted by jdamm

  1. jdamm
    I could be way off the mark here due to a foggy memory so ignore this if it doesn't make sense. when I reinstalled my old trims (because I haven't bought new ones) some 4-6 years ago, I noticed the spring clip that sits inside this outer window trim was offset, and it wasn't that hard to get the trim sitting 5ish mm off its correct position as the seam was on the wrong side of the grove in this spring clip. Similar to the interior door/ backseat side cards along the top edge IIRC. Maybe double check orientation of these.
  2. jdamm
    +1 to that! It does make me wonder though, what the highest amount of HP has been put into our 02's? And I dont mean a funny car dragster version, I mean still running factory chassis.
  3. jdamm
    Well funnily I was just reading an article about headers as ive built my own and having some teething problems due to being RHD ( having a bloody steering box in the way) and how poorly matched bends or "cheating bends" (cuting the pipe off perpendicular to the tangent) will rob you of precious HP, it won't be a lot but in the case of that shorty header, I guess that pipe alone would rob a couple HP. Id send that back, my 02c.
  4. jdamm
    ok so i've had the diff rebuilt, turns out i have a S40 with stampings similar to JGEROCK, however i have a klingelnberg contact pattern. my guy did the before mentioned break away test and got nothing not worthy, once he pulled it apart the reason appeared to be very worn friction discs on either side (see pics), once i referenced new part thickness i worked out id lost 2mm of (total) thickness on either side. i purchased new inner and outer discs, bearings etc. filling it up with oil tomorrow and road testing sunday, it will be interesting to see how noticable the difference is. 01-25%2f02%2f17.zip
  5. jdamm
    Thanks RussTii, Ok, he said he'd check the lock up % as you mentioned but he was unsure if it would reach it's lock up % if really worn (you may know more about that?). That explains the 25% diff i'd read about in posts but found no solid info on, going off the amount of random bmw parts from E12's/E21's i've found while restoring my tii, there is quite a chance the diff internals could be made up of E21 parts. I'll drop off the blue book for him, while i'm there i'll look at the pumpkin to see the lsd stamp and also check for the correct codings for klingelnberg or gleison are matching codes on the crown and pinion, that'll be a dead give away if its been messed with. do you know anything about the "SP" steel on steel disc version of the LSD? I'll report back for others if this thread becomes useful.
  6. jdamm
    Hi FAQers, i have a factory 3.64 lsd in my tii, i have spent a few hours searching the FAQ and reading through the blue book(which was the most help) but i still haven't found the answer. using the picture below (of my diff) the numbers in the blue book state its a 3.64 ratio with "s" for LSD, however in the blue book it references "S40" and "S75" stampings for 40% and 75% lock up, it also has "SP" for steel on steel disc LSD. is there any way to work out what i have from the casing stamps? i also looked at the exploded views for the bmw schematics(realOEM) and it looks like the 75% diff has 2 moly coated inner discs each side, the 40%(assumption) diff has one moly disc each side. so that leads to my next question, does a "SP" diff have no moly discs and if so how much is it's lock up %? the diff is about to be rebuilt as the input seal and bearing are toast and i want to give the bloke rebuilding it as much info as possible, as he's never rebuilt one of these before i'd hate to steer him wrong. any and all info is appreciated, even on part availability too ( to help me should i need some parts, guessing there NLA) thanks in advance jules.
  7. jdamm
    hey dlacey, the flexi pipes are brand new, i forgot to mention that. thank you for the break down of the circuit but could you possible be more specific about which line from where, for instance my thought process mentioned above makes me think i have a line from servo one to the caliper in the wrong feed hole into the caliper ( for example- servo1 with 2 fork outlet to front right & left calipers top feed hole, servo2 with 3 fork outlet to front left and right calipers lower feed hole ). i had the servo's rebuilt 2 years ago but re tested by the refurbisher 2 months ago to confirm they were still good (as the resto has taken WAY LONGER than expected), as they had warned me about the diaphragm perishing without use within 1 year of rebuilding. as far as im aware my boosters work fine but im yet to test them by disconnecting manifold feed.
  8. jdamm
    Hi Gruppe, so i have hit more snags..... front left caliper is stuck on, after reading other posts on this, i tried pumping pedal 10 times then starting car to see if pedal would drop like normal but it didn't move. aside from the caliper sticking and the pedal not dropping everything else seems fine and works. so having a stuck caliper would give me that result right? i haven't checked my boosters yet by removing line from manifold, should i try this? my current thought is that in my rookie mechanic state i have got one of my new self made hard lines around the wrong way or maybe the feed to the left caliper wrong, has anyone got any pictures or diagrams of the correct RHD dual booster line layout so i can clarify? my heads a bit of a mess TBH, after reading soo many posts that have individually specific symptoms, which my Tii has some of and none of ,aren't helping me narrow this down much. oh and just for background info as stated on the 1st post above, all the brake parts are new or refurbished. ive pulled the pads out of the caliper in question then pumped the brakes to see if the pistons moved and they moved fine, however i didn't start the motor to see if they returned... if you have any RHD specific guidance im all ears! thanks in advance, Jules
  9. jdamm
    Yeah they are, they work well provided you have the Ballance right, I had issues with the previous owner's set up where I couldn't hear enough up front and got too much sound from the rear tray with the glass at the perfect angle to throw it all forward, not so fun if your sitting in the back hahahaha. Now it's all pretty balanced with the tweeters turned down so that the high frequencies aren't harsh. The components on the side manage to be far enough back from your feet to get enough sound. A massive improvement from before but far from well designed and great acoustically.
  10. jdamm
    this is what ive just finished, it's not as pretty as some of the others but suits my needs, maybe not the tall passenger hahahaha.
  11. jdamm
    well being a avid mountain biker i liked the simpleness and backyard enginuity of this method so i gave it a crack, and it worked well! I will eventually make up a pressure lid as i have a few spare reservoir lids and a valve spare but for now the bike tube is a "winner winner chicken dinner!" and to the rest of you who commented, thank you for your advice, it's greatly appreciated! now all i have to sort is a stuck caliper as my bleeding prior to the pressure bleed obviously wasn't up to spec.
  12. jdamm
    thanks dlacey & simeon for the replies, ok so i have just finished flipping the calipers to opposite sides and re bled the system and pending a test drive it appears the problem is solved...... however based on your comments about pressure bleeding a RHD sys. i may have to look into that if the test drive isn't good, is there any mildy proper way to do so, say next step up from a syringe? or is it a workshop job? thanks again jules
  13. jdamm
    Hi All, so I'm at the last hurdle of the restoration before going for a "WOF"(warrant of fitness) New Zealand's version of a MOT, ive bleed the entire system 4 times now, in 2 different methods ( article from the faq and haynes manual), i have a RHD 73' tii with a dual circuit system with 2 remote servos. after the last round of bleeding, starting at the servos then rears then fronts, my brake pedal still hits the floor. i have a completely refurbished system (new lines,hoses, re sleeved cylinders, servos and calipers), Can anyone help either diagnose the fault in the system based on symptoms or give me a more specific RHD bleeding sequence to try? thanks in advance! EDIT; also just looked through the factory manual and notice i might have the front calipers upside down..... would this cause any issue with the upper, inner, outer sequence?
  14. jdamm
    thanks simeon, which version of JBweld is the right one to use? they seem to have quite a range.
  15. jdamm
    +1 for buying a mig, learning how to weld on some scrap and go nuts, i did that 3 years ago, car became a full resto, with 2 floor pans, 1 chassis rail, whole nose + grill transfer, lower rocker and rear bumper mount/patchwork. on the home straight now, will be on the road by easter, never looked back! good luck!
  16. jdamm
    +1 for the 228mm
  17. jdamm
    Hi Sydney tii, ok thanks for the shop names,i'll have a look. yeah i had thought along those lines with JBweld but i wanted to know if that's a band-aid/short term emergency fix, based on members experiences. have you tried jbweld personally?
  18. jdamm
    15x7 et25 "billet 85" 3pcs made by Image wheels in the UK, essentially BBS RS copies with a billet center.
  19. jdamm
    Hi all, so here's the background; i'm in the final stages of my resto on my 73 tii roundie, i'm on final pre start checks and i noticed coolant on the floor under my 02. i trace it to the bottom of the warm up regulator, checked the hoses attached at either side are tight which they were (and brand new), i crawl under and watch for a bit after removing the radiator cap, i spot the drip coming out of the seam on the bottom of the WUR, between the cast body and alu. cap on the bottom. about 6 months ago i had my k.fisch and wur tested and checked over in england ( i'm in New Zealand) and the test results were good, and WUR was working "very well". from reading some posts here, it looks like im in need of a replacement WUR but with my dwindling budget i want to know A) considering my WUR works well, can it be fixed at a reasonable cost? and by who or what profession? B.) i am having a hard time finding one in NZ( they're like unicorns here), where is the most reasonably price stockist of refurbed or good working cond. WUR's? like normal, if you have any advice, .02c or pointers i'm all ears. thanks in advance, julian
  20. jdamm
    yea i thought that too, i ended up getting to the point where either the arm would hit the fender or the pressure to push the rollers/latch down was ridiculous, so i went with the latter, i dropped the car off at the upholsterer today so i can't shoot to the garage and try something for a good week. i think once i get it back and have a good chunk of time spare to burn some braincells i will re visit the adjustment visionaut , hopefully i have missed something...... thanks for the help mate!
  21. jdamm
    ok so hood is on and adjusted as near to perfection as i'll get it, thanks to all of you for your help, i wished i had thought about the different names for "Bonnet" as i would have found pualT's link and probably a lot more info without being a pest hahaha! i do want to point out something i found about adjusting the hood that is potentially unique to my 02 but a touch confusing with all the comments received; i used the PDF that borgpj attached above in this thread, it say's; the scissor arms do TWO things, they control the height and gap of the hood at the front of the doors. the issue i had was once i adjusted the scissor arms to the correct position to get the gap/height right and tightened up all the bolts on the hood hinges, i could NOT get the hood to remain in this( correctly aligned) position by moving the scissor arms rearward toward the windshield to gain clearance on the top of the fender panel. i tried lifting the hood hinges but nothing worked. so my conclusion based on my 44 year old hood/fenders etc. is that i will have to use some form of protection on the fender to stop the rubbing between the scissor arm and fender as i can't seem to obtain this clearance that others seem to have. once again thanks for the help!
  22. jdamm
    A because we are all still "racing " for that team hahaha
  23. jdamm
    ok so alignment on the bonnet/hood is out but at this stage only the front height everything else is good, i haven't started to re adjust anything (that's a weekend job by the look of it) thanks borgpj for the pdf! LimeySteve and anyone else, have a look at the pics below of hood bar and if anything looks backward (as suggested previously) let me know... i will update you once hood is re adjusted later in the week. if there are any more ideas for the panel protection you lot are using let me know. thanks to all of the 02 family for the replies & suggestions, it's greatly appreciated!
  24. jdamm
    Thanks guys, first thing i'll check when i get home from work is hood alignment and bar position, i will post pics as well incase you can spot something. i did notice the hood isn't sitting in the same position as it was when i sent it to paint, my location marks at the hinges are visible but the arms did touch before all this too so we will see soon enough.
  25. jdamm
    Hi All, so i have my 02 back from paint and i'm reinstalling everything. Firstly let's clarify that this is the same issue for all 02's, does everyone's bonnet stay arms contact the top of the front guards/fenders? or is it just mine? the paint was worn through from rubbing before i restored the car. i had fun getting the body back from paint with the bonnet attached, i put foam rolls cut in half to stop any damage to the fresh paint for the drive back. see photo for areas in red, these are the contact locations. Secondly, if your fastidious like me or have a new resto or paint job, what have you done to protect this from damage? I was thinking along the lines of using some thick clear rubber or vinyl and sticking a strip on the top of the panel so that wears out not the paint. or getting creative and mounting a small roller or wheel to the stay arm, but that will probably still wear through the paint....... so throw your experience and suggestions at me i am all ears!
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