EddyM

Would love to have some amber ones for my Euro turn signals. Any idea when that might happen?

I just installed a set of these in my'73 roundie - the difference is incredible! I did it early in the evening, so it would be dark and I could see what they looked like with maximum contrast (a darkened garage). They about tear your retinas out by the roots - I stared a bit too long and the image was burned into my vision for about a minute after looking away. Installation was easy, even for a klutz like me - directions are well written and clear. I have no problem with the flasher cycle rate - it didn't change noticeably from when there were incandescent bulbs back there. It's really nice to know I've got four "bulbs" lit for rear running lights (not just two) and that all four will then blaze away when I step on the brakes. Angle of throw is excellent - I moved left and right of the car about the width of a lane and about 40 feet back, and they still shouted loudly at me. I highly recommend these LED panels as an easy way to improve the quality of your brake lights in a massive way (and no, I don't own stock in the vendor's firm).

Or your clutch slave cylinder (don't ask how I know).

You forgot the peanut butter wrench!

I too have had a negative experience (and an extremely expensive one at that - on a restoration). Extensive details available upon e-mail request. I would not, at this time, recommend them unless you have an unlimited amount of money to throw at the car and don't care how big the final bill is.

I just registered my 1973 and everything worked fine.

I just registered my 1973 and everything worked fine.

Just out of totally stupid and idiotic curiosity, what would be wrong with taking the old rubber channel out of the chrome, filling the chrome frame with a nice solid bead of black silicone rubber caulking material, putting the glass back in place, waiting for the silicone to cure, and then using a razor blade to trim things neatly?

Well, color me vision impaired - I looked through that section and obviously blew right on past it. Thanks for having a better set of peepers.

Jaymic in England sells a nice reproduction. Have just searched their website and can't find it - anybody got a link to the specific page with the bar?

Jaymic in England sells a nice reproduction. Have just searched their website and can't find it - anybody got a link to the specific page with the bar?

After checking to be sure the material is resistant to gasoline, I had a specialty shop install a piece of "clear bra" material under the filler opening - it extends fore and aft of the opening a couple of inches and all the way down the side of the panel. Unless you look for it you can't see it, and that way the occasional dribble won't do any damage to the paint if you can't get it cleaned up right away.

I'm running 195/60 X 14 tires and have no clearance issues. My speedo was way off after going to a 5-speed E-21 OD trans and a 3.91 diff, so I figured out the error on an "odometer-test" section of Interstate, then shipped the whole unit off to North Hollywood Speedometer and they corrected it to read accurately.

Yep, it was a long lead in, but I have always figured that when dealing with an electrical problem there's no such thing as too much information. Changing the bulbs would be a problem with the front ones - where in the world can you find those silly things? That's why I'm strongly considering re-plumbing the guts of each light unit to accept standard American auto bulbs. Earlier today I had enough time to root under the dash, extract the flasher unit, and examine it. Although it didn't appear to have any dirt or corrosion on the terminals, I rubbed them with some 200-grit paper and used some computer canned air to blow away any residue. I also pulled the driver's side front light and double-checked the connections. Once re-assembled, I tested and everything now works like it should. Whatever gremlin was present has, at least for the time being, gone to haunt someone else. Thanks for the suggestions.

Didn't know they could be adjusted - thought they were an "either it works right or it gets replaced" item. Will pull it in the next couple of days and take a look - can you explain why it provided correct operation when the wires were reversed on the one front turn signal light and now has a problem when those wires are correctly connected?

I’ve got a weird electrical problem. The car (1973) has front Euro turn signal/marker lights with the funky Euro bulbs that have two wires coming out of the bulb itself. The wires (one white, one black) are plugged into corresponding white and black wires coming into the light mounting recess from below. There doesn’t appear to be a brown grounding wire, from which I deduce that all switches involved are grounding switches. The bulbs on both sides have two filaments. The passenger-side light has always worked correctly – that is, when I turn on the running or headlights, the dimmer of the two filaments lights up. When I use the turn signal to indicate a right-hand turn, the bright filament flashes, I can hear the flasher unit under the dash, the rear turn signal light flashes, and the green indicator light in the combination instrument (gas/coolant temp) flashes in synch with everything. The driver’s side is a different story, and that’s where my problem is. When I got the car, turning on either the running or headlights would cause the brighter of the two filaments to light up. Using the turn signal to indicate a left-hand turn would make the rear signal light blink, I could hear the flasher unit under the dash, and the green indicator light would flash. However, because the bright filament in the front light was already lit up, there was no flashing signal from that light. The flashing rate was the same for both sides. Figuring there was a chance the light had been wired incorrectly, I pulled it. I found the white wire from the light plugged into the black wire from the body and vice versa. So I swapped them around and now the driver’s side front light is wired the same as the light on the other side (which I checked). It was a simple fix for the turn signal/running light issue, but it caused another problem. Turning on the running or headlights does, in fact, now turn on the dimmer of the two filaments in the driver's side light. Using the turn signal to indicate a left-hand turn does, in fact, cause the brighter of the two filaments to flash (the rear turn signal light also flashes, as it had done previously), and I can hear the flasher unit under the dash. However, the green indicator light in the combination instrument now flashes just once at the start and that’s it – it does not continue to flash regularly in synch with the front and rear bulbs and/or the flasher unit, as it does when signalling with the passenger-side light. In addition, the turn signal flash rate for the driver’s side light is now about half as fast as that for the passenger side (which has not changed from how it operated previously). I’m no electrical genius so I have no idea why what I did solved one problem and created another. It’s probably something incredibly simple that I’m overlooking (I did make sure the connections were solid) and I can’t find anything on turn signals where someone has had a similar issue. Does anyone have any ideas what’s going on here? Or, is this the car’s way of telling me I need to convert the units to regular American twin-filament bulbs? (I do have a printed copy of the post I found showing how to do that).

Thread on my stock '73 shift lever is M15 X 1.5 - I think that's considered a metric fine thread. I bought a tap thru Amazon, but if you have a Fastenal store near you they can get a tap too - just for more $.

I looked at RealOEM (and I have a complete parts manual at home) and both showed a washer, but neither diagram was clear enough to tell if it was a wave washer or just a flat washer. When I took my pivot bolts apart to see what was there, I found only the two knobs and two threaded bolts - no set screws and no washers of any kind. I opted for a wave washer on each because they're very thin and the springiness of them provides good tension. Replacing the set screws was a no-brainer.

OK - wasn't aware of that. I have a '73.

This may be elsewhere in the forum but I tried searching for posts related to the rear side windows and didn't find anything - apologies if it duplicates something already posted. Anyone else out there who can’t keep his rear windows flipped open while doing more than 30 mph no matter how much you tighten down those knobs on the latches? I got tired of the windows blowing shut when I hit about 30 mph and have solved my problem for less than $5.00. Solution: the knobs have small holes for set screws. They’re threaded for M3X.5 screws – really tiny little things. You’ll need two of them about four mm in length (I got 6-mm long screws and they stick out just a little from the side of the knob). You’ll also need a pair of wave washers that fit over the threaded portion of the bolt that goes through the latch pivot. I found the local Fastenal store had both the set screws (in a choice of 3/4/5/6/8/10 mm lengths) and the correct size wave washers. The set screws take a 1.5-mm allen wrench, which they also had. I had to buy 10 of the screws and 10 of the washers (they sell them only in poly bags of 10) plus the allen wrench. Once home, it took about 10 minutes to install the pieces and tighten down the knobs; a test drive at speeds up to 90 mph confirmed I’d got it right. Procedure: Take the knob off, insert a set screw loosely, drop a wave washer over the threaded portion of the bolt, put the knob back on, tighten it down until there’s a lot of friction in the pivot, then anchor the knob in place with the set screw. Test drive. If the windows still blow shut, loosen the set screw, tighten the knob another quarter turn, tighten the set screw, and test again. Repeat until the windows stay open. The set screw keeps the knob from backing off as you open and close the window, so you don’t lose the adjustment. The wave washer adds enough friction to the movement that it’ll stay where it’s set.

I've got a 73 and the hazard button glows dimly whenever the lights are turned on (parking or full headlights). It's a push-push switch, and when the hazard flashers are at work it is brightly lit. I've also got a similar green button an inch or so to the right that's a total dummy - it just sits there and doesn't do anything except look odd. I understand that was for the rear fog light if the car was so equipped when new, but just a dummy was plugged in if the car didn't have a rear fog light. I've never looked into the matter.

I just bought a fifth E-30 steelie (14X5.5) for a spare from Blunt in Minnesota - he's got good prices. They're only available now in black, so you need to either paint them yourself or have a body shop paint them silver if that's the look you want. Caps are also available at a reasonable price. The wheels will take 195/60 X 14 tires no problem.

My '73 2002 has a Weber 32/36 DGAV carb, and I need to adjust the idle (warm idle is about 1600 to 1700 rpm, and I’d like to drop it to 900 or 1000 rpm). I have a Haynes “Weber Carburetor Manual”, but am having difficulty translating the directions. On page 7-23, section 9 (Tuning), paragraphs 4 through 7, the manual says: 4) Turn the throttle valve adjusting screw so that the engine runs at the recommended idling speed for the particular engine being worked on. 5) Turn the idle mixture adjustment screw in or out until the engine runs at the highest rpm commensurate with even running. 6) Re-adjust the throttle valve adjusting screw if necessary, to bring the engine speed within limits. 7) Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 5 and 6, then switch off the engine. That seemed to be pretty straight forward, but then I turned to pages 7-6 and 7-7, where there’s an exploded diagram of all the parts in a 32/36 DGAV. I’ve carefully read the 98-item parts list four times, and cannot find any part listed that matches the language used in paragraphs four and five above. Specifically, there is no item listed as a “throttle valve adjusting screw” and there is no item listed as an “idle mixture adjustment screw”. Instead, I have found three possible adjusting screws: item 58, described as an “idle adjusting screw”; item 70, described as the “primary throttle adjusting screw”; and item 72, described as the “secondary throttle adjusting screw”. I get nervous about fiddling with something when the manual is inconsistent in the names it applies to various adjustment mechanisms. I think, but have no idea if I’m right or wrong, that what is called the “throttle valve adjusting screw” on page 7-23 equates to the “primary throttle adjusting screw” on page 7-7, and that what is called the “idle mixture adjustment screw” on page 7-23 equates to the “idle adjusting screw” on page 7-7. Can someone out there who’s fluent in Haynes (and/or Weber) tell me which adjustment screw is which? What about the “secondary throttle adjusting screw”? Does that also come into play when setting the warm idle? (I wouldn’t think so, but maybe it needs to be set to the same spec as the primary in order to have the secondary open at the correct time???).

Noob here - Started looking for a couple of things in the "02 General Discussion" forum, and quickly found myself a bit frustrated - threads on all kinds of topics in no particular subject-matter order. Given that many, perhaps a majority, of the threads pertain to some kind of technical or mechanical issue, I think having sub-sections or sub-forums under the general forum heading would help people at least start with threads that are relevant to the general area for which they are searching. For instance - and this is true only as I write this - of the first 20 threads on the forum, I found: 4 pertaining to engine issues 1 pertaining to body issues 2 pertaining to wheel and tire issues 1 pertaining to transmission/differential issues 3 pertaining to suspension issues 1 pertaining to steering issues 1 pertaining to interior issues 2 pertaining to carb issues 1 pertaining to lubrication issues 4 pertaining to what I'd consider "general" subjects While it might be overkill to have things divided up by the numerical code used to refer to various parts or maintenance/repair procedures (example: 13 for the fuel system but 16 for the fuel tank), maybe having 10 or 12 fairly broad sub-forums would help (brakes, electrical, engine, cooling, body, wheels/tires, trans/diff, suspension, exhaust, etc). Just a thought.