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man_mark_7

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Everything posted by man_mark_7

  1. man_mark_7
    I am mistook [sic]. I stuck a borescope into the seat this eve and there is only one long cable that runs from the inside (median of car) lever of the seat over a pulley attached to the lever on the outside of the seat then down to the latch. I ordered a repair kit from Aardvarc and will take some pics with the borescope as I fix the seats.
  2. man_mark_7
    Two barely used Ramair filters for Weber DCOE 40s. Excellent condition, no rips, tears, gouges, etc. One filter shows some slight dark spots on underside below the velocity stack holes (see pic), but I haven't tried washing and they are certainly not visible when mounted The pair lists for $41 on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-RAMAIR-High-Performance-Carb-Sock-Air-Filters-Weber-40-DCOE-CS-911/391815728301?epid=1657721058&hash=item5b3a098cad:g:KyEAAOSwBt5ZOBjQ Shipping at buyers expense, we can discuss how squashed or un-squashed a package I use for shipping Thanks for looking.
  3. man_mark_7
    Thanks @esty - The shorter cable on the outside (door / knob side) is pretty obvious. I am wondering more about the inboard lever / longer cable. The cable must go over a pulley somewhere? Is there any hope of reattaching this cable without tearing apart the seat back?
  4. man_mark_7
    Since it is still close to Halloween I thought it appropriate to resurrect this thread. I have exhausted my search skills on this site and the interwebs in general and cannot find an image that shows the cable guts of the Recaro Idealsitz N77. I have the style with a seat back tilt lever on both sides. All the cables on both seats are missing. Can anyone point me to an image of one of these seats that shows the cable routing of the long and short cables? I have seen the RealOEM diagrams are they are not detailed enough. Many thanks Mark
  5. man_mark_7
    Test fit of the e21 Recaros I just picked up. A friend pointed out a new Craigslist listing that was only 15min from my house in Eastern MA. They are still out there! I plan to replace the webbing, then run them until they really start to crack apart. They are amazingly intact and solid for their vintage, just need a couple knobs and cable fixes to be fully functional. Interestingly, the driver seat is in better condition than the passenger. I never sat in a e21 Recaro until installing these. It really changes the whole vibe of the car. You sit IN a Recaro vs. sitting ON the stock seats. I might have to re-think that decision to go without the A/C though, they are so form fitting. Black, snug vinyl seats on a hot summer day might be too much without A/C. Anyone have any tips for cleaning up the posts that hold the headrests? Anyone looking for a nice, uncracked / untorn set of stock seats? The horsehair is toast but they are good condition survivor seats otherwise.
  6. man_mark_7
    Did you remove wheels for some reason during your work? Could it be a loose drive wheel? I once forgot to fully tighten my lug nuts on one wheel and it had exactly these symptoms. Good luck.
  7. man_mark_7
    Just found these 15 minutes from my house in Eastern Massachusetts yesterday. Picked them up today! Many thanks to a fellow '02 aficionado to whom I just sold a 5sp driveshaft for pointing them out to me. Does anyone have a recommendation for where to get the straps and levers to "restore" them? One of the seats is missing both of the recline levers/knobs from the upright/back portion. I'm going to run them as they are for as long as I can before recovering, but they definitely need new webbing before I try to use them. Any recommendations for how to rejuvenate the vinyl to clean it and make it more supple? Lastly, any recommendations on a method to seal up some of the cracks before they really split? thx! Mark
  8. man_mark_7
  9. man_mark_7
    What's the end game? Are you replacing the nose on another car or is this nose the donor for a crunched nose?
  10. man_mark_7
    I have a cluster from a '73. Speedo just died but other gauges are good. Not sure if the '76 has crosshairs? The '73 does not.
  11. man_mark_7
    Sorry - you just missed it. Thanks for the interest though.
  12. man_mark_7
    Seen by my brother-in-law at a cars & coffee in Plymouth MA. Does anyone have any info about this car?
  13. man_mark_7
    Brand new, never installed, Dual DCOE Cross Bar Linkage, p/n: 99006.105 Pierce lists this for $127, but to be honest I've seen it listed elsewhere for less than $100. Shipping at buyers expense.
  14. man_mark_7
    I was amazed how much of an improvement I saw when I re-bushed the spherical cupped poly pieces holding the shift lever into the shift platform. I ground some clips to fit as shims and really packed it in their pretty tight. Very smooth and very precise now. It was all over the place, like you notice, before I did this. I recently put a 3.91 LSD in with my 245. I like it, but I have to admit it revs really quick in first gear.
  15. man_mark_7
    Don't forget to balance the roundels. ?
  16. man_mark_7
    I have an odd issue. The tach sits at 0 RPM until I rev the engine to what I'm guessing is about 1500 RPM then it seems OK from 1500 to 5k. When I sit at idle it drops to zero once again. Will adjusting this resistor fix this issue? Or, is this jump from zero to something an entirely different issue? I haven't been able to compare RPM against my timing light to confirm RPM yet. thx! mm
  17. man_mark_7
    Very impressive. That's a lot of work for one weekend. Enjoy!
  18. man_mark_7
    It does and doesn't make sense. I'm not sure what would cause the idle mix jets to stop threading into their bores if the jets didn't hit the bottom of their wells? So while, on paper, it sounds like a good idea I'm not sure that they don't always bottom out anyway just due to the design. On another note, I opened up the block off plate on my cold start mechanism and one of the block off pistons, on one of the carbs, was about half way up the bore. I had installed the Weber block off kit so I was surprised that when I pulled the pistons out of the bores all 4 of the o-rings were sitting in the bottom of their bores. I can't tell if this matters though. If I read the attached image correctly, the fact that I installed block off plugs in the cold start jet bores should(?) keep fuel from ever getting to the pistons(?) in the larger bores which are actuated by the choke mechanism?? I can't quite tell from this image how the fuel flow is routed.
  19. man_mark_7
    I think you are on the right track. On infrequent occasions in the past I couldn't get 5th without a bit of fiddling. I'm pretty sure the shift lever is sitting higher in the shifter platform based on the way I re-shimmed the spherically dished poly pieces that hold the lever. I'm guessing this, combined with the change to the different clip style put it over the edge so now it hits the platform just that little bit extra. I just have to find the time to climb under there and change the clip and grind a bit more off the platform. I don't go on the highway often so there is not much of a rush for me to get 5th working again. mm
  20. man_mark_7
    This is super helpful. This is the only place I have ever seen it mentioned that the Idle Adjust Screw should not be used to set idle speed, but rather the venturi balance screws should be adjusted?! Do others subscribe to this philosophy? I get that you don't want to uncover the first progression hole, but not using the Idle Adjust Screw at all??
  21. man_mark_7
    Roger that, shift rod AND shift lever. thx
  22. man_mark_7
    That's a pretty significant modification. Glad it's working now though.
  23. man_mark_7
    Wow - never dawned on me. This makes so much sense. Here I have been trying to bottom out the jets in the holders before inserting them. Can't wait to try out the "right" way tomorrow.
  24. man_mark_7
    Thanks for checking. It might be OK to put the rod on either side with the IE setup. I think I'm only having this issue because of what Toby pointed out, Old shift platform with newer shifter lever. I'm pretty sure that if I go to a c-clip and grind a bit away from the platform I'll be all set. 50% of the time it goes in OK with a bit of jiggling so I'm not far off. mm
  25. man_mark_7
    Hmmm. If I swapped it so the circlips were on the passenger side then I think the selector rod would hit even sooner. I'll play around with it though. I thought I saw it mentioned the rod should be on the passenger side, though, at least for a 5 spd conversion.
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