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man_mark_7

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Everything posted by man_mark_7

  1. man_mark_7
    Good thought, but I'm pretty sure it's in correctly. The kink angles the top of the shifter towards the rear of the car.
  2. man_mark_7
    Great point. I used these clips because they were so easy-on easy-off, but you're right, they are adding some width. I'd forgotten that they were originally c-clips. Thanks!!
  3. man_mark_7
    Hi all, I recently replaced my shifter bushings. 1 - 4 feel wonderful but I am having a really hard time getting 5th. I can see from below that the selector rod is hitting the shift platform. The rod is on the passengers side, so that looks correct. Any suggestions? The box section of the shift platform looks pretty solid, I don't think I could effectively dent it enough to clear the selector rod. I'm sure a Blunttech or IE 5-spd conversion platform would fix my problem, but they are rather spendy. thx Mark
  4. man_mark_7
    I will add for option 1 that you also need to do something about the Tii booster being longer than the base model booster. The master cylinder will interfere with the battery and hang over the battery box by a couple inches. I got a shorter (front to back of the car) battery and cut a small flap into the battery tray to route the brake lines through. In the future I plan to move the battery to the trunk, or under the back seat.
  5. man_mark_7
    Yeah - I see that mentioned all the time, but I never quite understood the joke. I could see "bury it in your neighbors garden" or, hide it under their deck, if you are just trying to not throw it in your trash for some reason. But a neighbor would see it if you threw it into their pool. And, if your neighbors were to see you tinkering on your car all the time, like mine see me doing, they would quickly deduce where the part came from.... ?
  6. man_mark_7
    Bingo! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-For-Mopar-A-B-C-E-F-Body-w-Electronic-Ignition-209/133486116949?fits=Make%3AChrysler&hash=item1f14648055:g:hAoAAOSw3utY5p07 There wasn't any part # on it, other than the TI (That's Texas Instruments, not Touring International) number which didn't turn up any car parts when I tried. Since a new one sells for $18, this one is destined for the electronics scrap bin. thank you.
  7. man_mark_7
    Too bad there is not an image match capability on the FAQ. I tried Google Image Search and it thinks this might be an instant camera ? This came out of a box of mostly '02 bits I bought about a year ago. Is it an '02 part? What is it / what year(s)? There is certainly nothing like it on my '73. thanks for looking. Mark
  8. man_mark_7
    Sparing no expense I fabricated a very ornate and custom AFR gauge mount. As an added bonus it is easily reversible so I can watch the ratio while doing fine idle tuning ? I'll set up a production line if I get enough requests for mounts like this....
  9. man_mark_7
    Close up of the heater control panel please?
  10. man_mark_7
    How are you tuning your carbs? Do you have AFR or just using a butt-dyno approach?
  11. man_mark_7
    Ah - got it. I was trying to read it as each row was one contributor. It should have dawned on me that there weren't 44 rows. Thx.
  12. man_mark_7
    Wow. This is a great piece of work. You save me so much time. One question - why are there gaps in the WOT bars? For example, the very first row is solid from 12.5 to 13, then there is a gap, then a solid bar again from just below 13.5 to just above 13.5. thx mm
  13. man_mark_7
    Hopefully the MSD Tach adapter is going to get me the RPM's. It seem to be an inductive unit that clamps over one of the coil primary(?) wires to get an RPM signal. It is mentioned specifically in the AEM literature.
  14. man_mark_7
    I took the plunge. As best I could tell, since I had already installed AEM AFR gauge, I was sort of tied in to an AEM data logger. I think I could have changed the EUGO gauge and kept the Bosch sensor and switched to a different brand, but the AEM stuff seems pretty well made. So, here is what I'm planning to build: AEM X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge AEM AQ-1 Data Logger Weber DCOE Throttle Position Sensor MSD Tach Adapter - I think I need this to enable RPM data logging from my 123 dizzy Going forward it would make sense to add a MAP sensor and probably a few other goodies but I'll see how far I can get with AFR, RPM and TPS to start. Does this all make sense?
  15. man_mark_7
    I dropped the level to 29mm yesterday. It created a noticeably slower pull on acceleration from low RPM using my butt-dyno. I still have lots of jet tinkering to do though. I just ordered a data logger and a tach adapter. I'll install a throttle position sensor today so it's ready to hook up when the logger and tach adapter arrive. This is fun. Can't wait to start plotting results.
  16. man_mark_7
    Ouch - just checked shipping. $57 to ship to US.
  17. man_mark_7
    I think you got the last 2. Now says "0 available / 6 sold". How is this different from this W&N part? https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/ball-bearing-62x30x23-8-for-518-518i-only-manual-gear-box-all-years-of-manufacturing-1-for-1-car-23-070-01.html mm
  18. man_mark_7
    Thanks! Could you elaborate on how the drop factors in?
  19. man_mark_7
    That's a great idea! Unfortunately, I'm a data junkie and love graphs. Until I get a system up and running though I'm going to use your Go-Pro idea. Thanks.
  20. man_mark_7
    Can you sketch up a drawing so I can bring it along to my machinist? ?
  21. man_mark_7
    I got the 25mm originally from here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/43985-triple-weber-40dcoe-151-float-level/ The more I dug into it, the more it seems that the 12mm / 29mm settings are correct. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52084-setting-fuel-level-weber-dcoe/ It appears that the 25mm setting puts the fuel level a couple mm below the emulsion tube side holes that feed the venturis. The idea was to use this to cure a lean spot on acceleration that is present in some triple weber on Z car setups? Interesting because I got a great deal on a triple weber setup. All 3 of the carb lids have "Super-Z" stamped into the top so I assume they were originally on some kind of Z car.
  22. man_mark_7
    You are already 10 steps ahead of me. What is an example of a "modern data acquisition system"? Are these CANbus or are they just generally capable of recording 0-5v signals? What type of signals do the AFR gauges output?
  23. man_mark_7
    Wow. The innovate stuff seems much more reasonably priced than the AEM stuff. That being said, I found a great deal on an aem aq-1 data logger and I also just ordered a DCOE TPS. Since the AQ-1 has an accelerometer built in I just need to find a way to capture RPM and I've got a true "rolling road".
  24. man_mark_7
    Oooh boy. Let's throw more variables into the mix ? I am going by the ideal of having the fuel level 2mm below the side bores off the emulsion tube holes that feed the venturis (see pic). To me, it looks like this occurs on my m10 @ 25mm. That being said, I am running rich with it set @ 25mm. Maybe I'll try 29mm and report back. That would certainly put me back closer to the 12mm float setting. Where did you find the text you quoted? Aren't most manifolds on the different cars formed to try and keep the carbs roughly horizontal? Therefore, wouldn't the 25mm be universal? mm
  25. man_mark_7
    FWIW I noticed that at 12mm both the tip and the center of the plastic float were equidistant from the cover. In other words, the float to surface was nearly parallel to the underside of the top cover.
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