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man_mark_7

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Everything posted by man_mark_7

  1. man_mark_7
    I installed a TPS from Redline that includes a bracket that uses both bosses. My carbs had already had this boss ground off and the TPS seems quite stable with just the one remaining boss. It might look better with a bolt going into the empty hole, but functionally I don't think it's deficient without it.
  2. man_mark_7
    I will be watching this thread with great interest. I recently installed dual DCOEs on an IE manifold. I used the IE manifold heater bypass kit w/ a silicone hose that connects to the driver side outlet of the heater core. I ended up having to install a 3" extension, hidden in the windshield plenum, to find a heater hose routing that didn't interfere with either the DCOE fuel lines and/or the @halboyles Ti-style throttle linkage.
  3. man_mark_7
    Thx. Good to know. I'll test them this way before shipping them off to Dave_PA.
  4. man_mark_7
    I'm not exactly sure what these are. They were on my car when purchased along with original stock springs. They seem in good shape. A little surface rust / chipping around the lower mount but otherwise solid. I would take $50 for the pair, including shipping, if you are interested. I cleaned them up a bit, but I'm sure they would clean up even better with just a bit more elbow grease. Happy to test if someone tells me what test they would like. They don't show any leaks and don't move easily when I try to compress. They seemed fine when in the car. I'm pretty sure the # on them: F3-B46-0803-H1 cross references to 24-008037. They list for $95ea on Amazon but are out of stock. https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-24-008037-Performance-Absorber-Yellow/dp/B009FU5JUC Price includes shipping in US. Upper rubber bushings not included as I used them when installing my new shocks. The two large washers are included for each shock.
  5. man_mark_7
    I am about to list these Bilsteins. I'm not exactly sure what they are. They were on my car when purchased along with original stock springs. They seem in good shape. A little surface rust / chipping around the lower mount but otherwise solid. I would take $50 for the pair, including shipping, if you are interested. I cleaned them up a bit, but I'm sure they would clean up even better with just a bit more elbow grease. I'm pretty sure the # on them: F3-B46-0803-H1 cross references to 24-008037. They list for $95ea on Amazon but are out of stock. https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-24-008037-Performance-Absorber-Yellow/dp/B009FU5JUC
  6. man_mark_7
    Thanks for the tips @halboyles! I did play around with the lever at the pedal a bit already, I just need to fiddle a bit more. For the time being 95%WOT was good enough with all the other kinks I'm ironing out ? on the Webers.
  7. man_mark_7
    To get up and running I ended up using my stock rod that runs from pedal vertically to the rod that bridges from the firewall to the carbs. I can get to about 95% WOT with this rod (per the TPS I installed). Once I'm further along with my jetting at lower RPM / cruising ranges I'll deal with the longer rod that came with the kit to get full WOT.
  8. man_mark_7
    What about completely grinding away that portion of the block, then making a template to weld in a suitably tapped piece of replacement material? The replacement material could be nearly any shape that gives it good purchase. You might even be able to get away with welding in a nut of the right size/material. Good luck!
  9. man_mark_7
    You won't regret it. I purchased, but never installed, the bar style linkage. Once I saw Hal's linkage I knew that was the way to go. It was an easy install and is working great for me now.
  10. man_mark_7
    Ooooh boy. Was this show really this bad? And, did anyone really dress that way? I'm a teenager of the 80's and I'm embarrassed.
  11. man_mark_7
  12. man_mark_7
    Finished the gauge swap a couple weeks back but only managed to find a decent sunny day with the carbs actually on the car to back out of the garage today and take a pic. Here are pics of the before (model 71 cluster), during (model 70(?) cluster), and after (model 70(?) + alloy trim rings) gauge cluster in my '73. I can't explain it, but with the 5spd, 3.91 LSD, and the silver dollar speedo I'm almost dead nuts on MPH. I keep meaning to pull the cluster and see what is stamped on the back of the speedo but I was totally expecting to have to send it out for calibration. $220+ saved!
  13. man_mark_7
    Totally impressive. I got a response today too. Didn't even mention the fire, just apologized for taking a day to get back to me. The URO brand now has a positive aura in my book.
  14. man_mark_7
    I recently got 3 dots from Blunt.
  15. man_mark_7
    I lust over your grille. Especially the driver's side..... Mine has a few wrinkles. Good luck with your new '02!
  16. man_mark_7
    I emailed 'sales at uro parts dot com" yesterday eve and haven't heard anything back yet. I bought a set as soon as I saw the first posting in this thread from that Rocky place but they look like they were old stock. I guess I'll try and call tomorrow.
  17. man_mark_7
    I just checked the AL41x, it looks to be rated @ 65 Amps! https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/bosch-alternator-al41x/1094629_0_0 Looks like it's in stock too.
  18. man_mark_7
    I have it in my notes that the AL41x is also a good replacement. Is there something preferable about the AL116x? IIRC, you need to grind the shaft length down a bit on both so the radiator fan doesn't make contact?
  19. man_mark_7
    Interesting. I can't find anywhere that outlines the Franck jet theory of operation. I did have some traces of manifold vac, but I can't find them right now. I'll take some measurements and see if I can get in touch with him (after reading through the Groups.io stuff).
  20. man_mark_7
    They are such a pain, but that is the joy of it. When I lose things to tinker on with the car, that is when I begin to lose interest in the car. The DCOEs are totally prolonging the tinkering. When I first put them on I could barely get the idle mix screws to have an effect on idle RPM. Playing with carb linkage, distributor advance, and baseline jetting all slowly gave me tunability. Now I'm chasing the infamous off-idle transition and playing with AFR across the range. SOOOO much fun. But, if you want more plug and play it might not be your thing.
  21. man_mark_7
    Or go with the 123ignition dizzy which is infinitely tuneable, but not as period correct looking.
  22. man_mark_7
    One of the not insignificant reasons I switched to DCOEs from a sync-linked 32/36 was the pure beauty of the DCOE carbs. I have gone to extra efforts to make sure that vacuum lines, air filters, etc. don't hide the carbs. They always elicit an awed response when I pop the hood, even from people who aren't traditional "car people". Still lots to do, but I'm having so much fun playing with jets, and learning AFR decimal point by decimal point about all the nuances of these carbs.
  23. man_mark_7
    Wow - great resource. Much appreciated!
  24. man_mark_7
    Yeah, I have been avoiding drilling the idle jets for these reasons. I have heard that Weber actually flow tests (or did flow test) the jets to make sure that the combo of jet hole, taper, air bleeds, etc makes a 50 behave like you would expect a 50 to behave, not that it has an exactly 0.50 orifice. I do wish I could find .52 jets somewhere though. I have seen them listed on old Weber literature, but can't currently find them. Short of finding some, I may have to start experimenting with drilling out some .50 jets.
  25. man_mark_7
    I think I figured out why my heat wasn't working so great. The valve actually turns relatively smoothly so I don't know why the cable snapped. At least it's probably not a plugged radiator core causing the lack of heat.
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