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man_mark_7

Solex
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Everything posted by man_mark_7

  1. That's a good deal! I paid ~$800 for a set of 3 DCOE 40s and nothing else.
  2. Flopping back to the subject of transmissions and rear end gearing. I will say that with a 3.91 rear end 1st gear tops out really fast but that just means more opportunity to shift!
  3. I would like to claim that I planned it, but I got lucky and found that a 5 speed with a 3.91 LSD, 15" wheels and a silver dollar speedo = dead nuts reading on the speedo. I had thought I was going to have to send the speedo out to get calibrated but was pleasantly surprised when I got it all together!
  4. I'm color blind - is this one of the colors you are looking for? I have 3 seats and am in MA. If this color looks right I can take better pictures of all of them. mm
  5. I have always heard said that Beemer is the motorcycle and Bimmer is the car. All I know is that when I got to most online parts shops I have a choice of Tii, base, etc. mm
  6. Interesting. I'd guess they milled off the ports from the base model and pressed in the shorter port so the breather tube could clear some feature of the FI engines?
  7. How does a Tii cover differ from a base model cover?
  8. @chris_b It's a @halboyles linkage - love it. It has linkage that connects the two throttle shafts directly to each other with a set screw to adjust. mm
  9. How did you decide between 284 and 292? I'm torn. I'm not planning to do track racing so my sense is the 284 would be better for spirited around town driving.
  10. OMG. I think I would have pushed that across the country if I had a crack at it for $3k..... Just glad it's going to live again. I applaud your intent to keep as original as possible and only fix what needs fixin! take good care of her.
  11. Gulp. I just replaced my diff about 100 miles ago. Better climb under and double check those bolts!!
  12. Thanks for the insights - makes a lot of sense.
  13. Thanks Matt - Do you know where I can find a brass drift long enough?
  14. Hi all, I'm rebuilding my '72 head and need to drive out the old rocker shafts. If anyone has an old rocker shaft that is straight I'd like to buy it. I don't care about pitting, wear, etc. just that it is straight. Much appreciated! Mark
  15. I am no expert, but I ended up running my dual Webers / 123 without any vacuum advance at all. I think that unless you have some kind of one way check valves in those lines running from your carbs to the dizzy all you are doing is kind of diminishing the vacuum in any one carb throat. I'm not sure what each adjacent cylinder is doing at any given time, but certainly while one is on an intake stroke the adjacent one could be on compression, ignition or exhaust meaning the adjacent carb throat is at nearly(?) atmospheric pressure. In this case all the crossover tube is doing is damping the vacuum for the throat that is on an intake stroke. How does the vacuum signal on the 123 look? I think they use a pretty heavily damped signal so it might appear relatively stable - this might be OK? It would be interesting if you stuck a fast reading vacuum gauge at the end of your vacuum line and see how much it fluctuates. It would also be interesting if you capped off each vacuum tap at each of the 4 carb throats and went for a few runs. Good luck!
  16. I'm tearing down a spare motor and am stuck choosing between the 284 or 292 cam....
  17. Any engine mods other than the DCOEs & 123? I also have dual DCOEs, 123 + IE Tri-Y header and stainless exhaust. mm
  18. How do you know how much is evaporating vs. draining through the valves? I guess I could lay Saran wrap over the head after filling the chambers. Hmmm, now i need to check if Saran wrap will melt in the presence of charcoal starter fluid.
  19. Pulled the cam! I'm still on the fence re: 284 or 292. I don't anticipate racing / high RPM so I'm thinking 284 might be a better fit for "spirited" street driving?
  20. I really think they only just barely kissed. I was watching them pretty closely. I should have seen if I could slide a feeler gauge between them, I think I could have made a .002" pass. The head was resting on the fixture base which keeps the valves from touching anything.
  21. The Cam has left the building ? After pulling the cam I noticed the front valves possibly just kissed each other since the fixture snugged down more on the front of the head vs. the back. I think that's probably what the little swingy-down things I wasn't really paying enough attention to are for. Second photo is rear of head showing a gap with fixture and 3rd pic shows the front of the picture possibly slightly over-tightened. If the swingy thing was down I assume it would have started exerting more force on the rear of the fixture until it too contacted the head. There was more than enough room for the rockers to clear the cam lobes coming out. I had to crank down the fixture until the center cam journal could clear the rockers. Now it's on to the next challenge. Getting the rocker shafts out. I was an idiot and accidently drove the plug on the front of the exhaust shaft deep into the shaft. I'm guessing that's a non-recoverable error that means I'll be finding some new rocker shafts. Does anyone know of a good source for rod material that is the same diameter as the rocker shafts that is long enough to drive them out? mark
  22. What an ENORMOUS help! Thank you so much. Thank you also for your prior comment about large threaded bolt on the top cross piece being offset and this goes towards the exhaust side of the head so that these valves open more and don't clash with intakes! mm
  23. Thank you! Pics would be extremely helpful. Here is what the lucky keeper-of-the-treasure was able to dig up when we discovered some pieces were missing. Maybe the bottom one is the "Base", and maybe the top one is the "Block"? thanks again so much for your help mark
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