Jump to content

man_mark_7

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    551

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by man_mark_7

  1. man_mark_7
    I just tried 55f11 and 50f6 over the past couple days since my 55f8s also seem too rich. Both of them were too lean through and slightly above transition. Went back to 55f8s but more experimentation is needed. Does anyone know if in fact a very rich 50 idle jet like a 50f6 would overlap with a very lean 55 jet like a 55f11? This is my understanding of how the air bleed on the idle jets affects the mix: F6 (richest), F12, F9, F8, F11, F13, F2, F4, F5, F7, F1, F3 (leanest). That being said, I only find F6, F9, F8, F11 in several places so I assume they are the most commonly used?
  2. man_mark_7
    Hi All, I recently picked up a set of Recaro e21 seats locally. They are in good survivor condition but the cables on both are snapped so the flip forward function doesn't work correctly. I am told they are "later" model because they have levers on both the left and right side of the seat backs. I am trying to figure out what the cable routing is inside the seat backs, without cutting up the upholstery. The first and 2nd pics below are my seats. I found a pic of a Recaro e21 seat back without upholstery which also has 2 levers (3rd pic below), but I'm pretty sure my cable routing is different than this. Does anyone have a pic of the cable routing inside a Recaro e21 seat back that is the same type I have? Thanks! My Seats Pic of another e21 Recaro internal
  3. man_mark_7
    Although it would be nice to see 14s while cruising at highway speeds for fuel economy, I'm not too hung up on that. I'm more interested in being in the AFR 13.2 - 14.0 (lambda of .90 - .95) for best power. I drop into the 11s sometimes and also hit 16/17 every now and then. As I have seen mentioned elsewhere on this forum, I'll be happy when I see an 11 or see 15 or higher only on fleeting rare occasions.
  4. man_mark_7
    Ouch - my head is starting to hurt. So, to get the highest pressure possible in the float bowl (short of actually pressurizing the bowl), you would vent to atmosphere. I guess at the end of the day, plumbing the bowl into the air filter or the manifold plenum is probably similar to going down a size or two (or 3 or 4) on the air corrector. Now I need to dig for the pic I've seen on this forum before that shows a Ferrari(?) with 6" long vel stacks on the carb throats, + 1" stacks on the float bowl vents. ?
  5. man_mark_7
    I thought about trying to bend the studs, but I got the IE ones which have the allen holes in the ends and they seemed quite brittle. I used a rat tail file and didn't touch any of the material on the mating face of the carb. I only needed to remove a tiny bit of material on the outer bore of the hole through the carb flange. It is almost not noticeable and is totally covered by the wave washer I put under each nut - by a large amount. There are always at least 3 solutions to every problem. Also, 25% of all statistics are totally made up.
  6. man_mark_7
    OH - just noticed this bit. The "relative" changes everything. My bad.
  7. man_mark_7
    Interesting mental model puzzle. I'm not sure I believe there is a positive pressure in the float bowl though - if the bowl is plumbed into the air filter. I think the pressure is higher than in the carb throat, because of the venturi effect in the throat, but if the carb is pulling air into the filter, then the filter (and therefore the float bowl) must be seeing a pressure below atmospheric. That being said, the float bowl pressure (small amount of vacuum) is certainly higher than the throat pressure (greater amount of vacuum) when the bowl is plumbed into the air filter. I would expect the float bowl pressure to be even more different than the throat pressure if the bowl is vented to atmosphere. Either way, I think your conclusion is right - plumbing the bowl vent to either the air filter, or the intake plenum, reduces the pressure differential across the jet stacks and leans out the mixture. I will have to try some experiments to confirm if this true! I just got a bunch of jets delivered today but I had a bunch of things to do and it was near freezing here. Tomorrow is a bit more open and is going to be warmer so great day to test!
  8. man_mark_7
    Here are a few pics of my setup. I have a Tii booster so the vacuum port is on the bottom of the booster. I just ran a very stiff piece of tubing (something that won't collapse under vacuum) to the booster. Looking at it now I probably could have made the curve OK without hitting the firewall, but it just seemed like an unnecessary length of tubing. Once I started playing with the linkage I thought it was going to be really fiddly. Trying to mess with the turnbuckles to tune the carbs to each other seemed problematic and I wasn't comfortable that the arms were really going to lock onto the cross shaft since the cross shaft doesn't have any knurling. The Ti linkage just looks so much cleaner and there is only one simple screw to sync the carbs to each other. I can't quite tell from your 4th picture where things are hitting. I did have to very slightly file down one of the linkage pieces from @halboyles Ti kit. Even with the idle set screw turned backed all the way out, the linkage was hitting the underside of the idle set screw boss. I probably only needed to take of 1/16" of material to remedy it since the idle screw only gets screwed in by 1/2 to maybe 1.5 turns to set the idle.
  9. man_mark_7
    My IE intake was ever so slightly off for one carb. With a tiny bit of hole filing on the carb I managed to slip it on. I had a bigger issue with the vacuum booster takeoff. I didn't like the idea of it coming straight out of the manifold so I found a 90deg elbow, but it ran out of threads and hit the manifold before it tightened up. I ended up using a 2" 1/4NPT extension into a T fitting. It snugged up because I could thread it in deeper without anything hitting. One side of the T now goes to the brake booster and I installed a vacuum gauge on the other side of the T. I also started out with the type of linkage you show in your pics, but I ended up going with the Ti style that @halboyles makes. It has worked out really nice. Good luck!
  10. man_mark_7
    It's a standard Tii booster. It is probably just the camera angle that makes it look big. I think I'm confusing you. The bowl vents are open to the air inside the pancake filters, but I have read (and it makes sense) that they are then seeing lower-than-atmospheric pressure, especially as RPM rises. No trumpets inside the filters. I do have trumpets, but in this case keeping dirt out of the intake / engine won out over my appreciation of the beauty (and function) of vel stacks. I am with you - I have heard that you want long smooth airspace around carb intake for the best performance and that vel stack length tuning is an important parameter, but I haven't ever seen any dyno data to show just how much the improvement is. Is it chasing fractions of an HP or is it much more?
  11. man_mark_7
    Looking forward to putting all of these suggestions to the test - Many thanks! One additional piece of the puzzle is my air filter setup. Does anyone have definitive info about how having the bowl vent open within the plenum of the air filter will affect AFR? I plan to rig up a setup to see how pressure (vacuum) in the bowl varies over RPM. I am guessing ideally it would stay around atmospheric pressure. If it doesn't stay around atmospheric I was planning to punch a hole in the top of the air filter lid and stick a piece of pipe through the lid into the bowl vent. I imagine that, with the current setup, as RPM rises and volumetric flow into the engine is increasing the pressure in the air filter, and therefore in the bowl, are falling. I can't quite rationalize how this would affect AFR. I suppose it would prevent the air correctors from seeing full differential pressure and therefore it could be causing the richness @ higher RPMs? Love this stuff.
  12. man_mark_7
    I can't believe I didn't find your write up when I was originally searching the archives. Thanks for pointing it out! I think after playing with the idle jets that I will try a 115 main to lean out my higher RPMs a bit. I am surprised that you were running a 115 main with a 210 air corrector. I have been lead to expect that the air corrector will be about 50 larger than the main. That being said - if it works, it works!
  13. man_mark_7
    Good trick an old timer taught me was put the nut back on the shaft so its flush with the top thread. Put a pry bar under the rim of the wheel and onto the top of the nut/shaft. Pull up on the prybar and smack the part of the prybar resting on the nut with a hammer while maintaining upward force with the pry bar. It has worked like magic every time I have tried. Plus you don't need two people to do it.
  14. man_mark_7
    Thanks - I think I'm seeing pretty much the same as you when I run the 55f8 idle jets. I drop to the 10s sometimes when I get on it gently, then goes lean then starts getting richer and richer as RPM goes up. I still need to drop down a size or so on my Main jet I think since I'm going rich at higher RPM. I don't know how visible this graph will be, but it shows one WOT run up to about 5k RPM. Thanks for any advice.
  15. man_mark_7
    Thanks for the advice! I was just worried that idling at mid 12s would start to gum up the plugs. I suppose I can run it for a while then pull the plugs to see how they are looking. Regarding the 50 F9, F12, F6 - Sounds like a good idea. I was trying to go leaner on the 55f8, but I could also try richer on the 50f8. I just don't know which is the better avenue. I do have 50f6's on order too so if these are too rich I will try the 50F9 and 50F12.
  16. man_mark_7
    It has been a few weeks since installing dual Italian DCOE 40 / 151s, still fettling them in. Stock engine except for header, electric fuel pump (2.75ish psi), 123ignition. Here are my current specs: My issues are that with a 55f8 idle jet I'm too rich everywhere, idling about mid 12s and very low 13s for almost every other load condition. When I swap to a 50f8 then the car is way too lean through the transition ports shooting up into the 18s if I try to transition through them slowly. This being said with the 50f8s the car still idles on the rich side (low 12s). I have some 55f11 idle jets on order, but I'm not really sure how much of a difference to expect and it probably wont help get my idle mix out of the 12s. My throttle plates are "perfectly" aligned as best as I can tell. All 4 just start to expose the first transition hole as I begin to move the throttle so I think the throttle plate positions are OK at idle? What would you try next?
  17. man_mark_7
    bump - dropped the price by $10
  18. man_mark_7
    Is that a high beam switch, or the turn signal switch?
  19. man_mark_7
    I don't mean to thread hijack, but I swapped to a Silver Dollar cluster and by some weird miracle the speedo is almost dead accurate now in spite of my 195 50R15 tires and the 3.91 LSD w/ 5 spd. I was totally expecting to have to pull the speedo again to get it calibrated so I didn't even bother to look @ the ratio stamped on the back - but it's perfect! mm
  20. man_mark_7
    My first memorable brush with an '02 was when I was serving in the Air Force in Dover Delaware in 1984. A dorm buddy had a slightly shabby specimen, but I remember the dual webers and how amazing they sounded. I now have a slightly shabby specimen of my own with dual webers that sing gloriously. Thank you all for your service!
  21. man_mark_7

    Hi Denver Tii

    Do you have any heater control covers available?

    Many thanks,

    Mark

    1. jcsteuber1

      jcsteuber1

      I believe that I have 2.

  22. man_mark_7
    Thanks @Mark92131 For the sake of comparison, here is the info I found about the 245/4 (I incorrectly called it a 245/5). https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?429050-Gear-Ratios-in-the-4-amp-5-speeds
  23. man_mark_7
    I'm not sure of the ratio of the 235/5 but I recently installed a 3.90 LSD mated to my 245/5. I have to say that 1st gear with the 3.91 is a real stump puller. I max it out pretty quickly. Good luck w/ your search.
  24. man_mark_7
    Sorry Lau, Didn't even remember I had this posted. It has been sold. I updated the listing. thank you mm
  25. man_mark_7
    Is a 69 a long neck? That being said, I have an unknown ratio long neck and a 3.64 short neck in MA.
×
×
  • Create New...