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rcf925

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Everything posted by rcf925

  1. rcf925
    M20 Not the same gear on starter as a stock one. It works but has loud sound clashing with Flywheel it's SR71X that does work and is smaller than stock, Thats what I'm using and is like $80
  2. rcf925
    I used a Carter 4070 on by dual 45's mounted in trunk, Even after isolating with rubber, Too noisy for me. Went with Holley in-line which is quiet, As for pressure they both say 4.5 to 7 lbs. which is too much. I put in regulator before carbs in engine bay and run 2 to 2.5. No fuel odors coming from carbs and if you want to know if it's too little pressure just do a long WOT pull in 4th or 5th gear and see if your car stumbles from lack of fuel, If so just up pressure in 1/2 lb increments
  3. rcf925
    Like Gordon, I'm currently using 1977 E21 Rotors, Calipers and Master Cylinder for the front. I have complete E21 upgrade for rear sitting in garage but have bot installed due to required emergency brake cable having to be changed, So I went with all new rear brake stock parts and braking is great, At some point I could do the upgrade to rear but at this point I don't see a huge need to
  4. rcf925
    Same 2 wires used from original starter, Big red one from battery to big terminal, Small wire to spade clip at 6 0'clock , There's also a ground from block
  5. rcf925
    I went to local auto body, They have a on site paint shop that sells to the public. They polished a little area and scanned with computer tool, Match came out great. I've used this method a few times with good results
  6. rcf925
    My 68 2002 did have long neck diff and swan mirror
  7. rcf925
    That's sad, Never like to see old time business close.
  8. rcf925
    Sold for 64K, Apparently all the nit picking didn't hurt the sale price
  9. rcf925
    The nut is what I was talking about, A little to close for comfort, If it is hitting you would feel it in steering
  10. rcf925
    The Exhaust is also caved in to clear center link, That is a big safety problem for steering and looks to be 50% reduction in exhaust flow
  11. rcf925
    There's nothing you can't make right working with metal, Pretty much
  12. rcf925
    Getting back to valve springs, If your spending all the money to rebuild and putting in higher lift cam I'm assuming you want to rev motor more than stock or whats the point, Valve springs are cheap and why not match to cam, You will be happy you did
  13. rcf925
    I would do the valve springs because of the extra lift on either .284 or .292 cam. IE sells some that are made for .292 cam which is what I used doing my build. Stock springs really not stiff enough
  14. rcf925
    I think the owner of the car knows all the problems with the car and is not being forthcoming with whats wrong with car on BAT, There's a reason he's driving like an old lady. Along with all the good with car you should also point out the problems and say it at least needs sorting out, That the car was just put together. I know it's always the case Buyer Beware but sellers need to be honest too
  15. rcf925
    That suspension is a mess and probably why guy drives like an old lady in video cause it probably makes all kind of noise and handles like Sh&* . Also just says motor was pulled with like 116k on it and says tested and inspected whatever that means. I'm kinda tired of seeing so many of these cars built to flip and not really sorted. I can't believe its all ready at 35k. New owner will have plenty of sorting to do
  16. rcf925
    Drives like an old lady, I'd be flogging that thing
  17. rcf925
    Currently my main jet stack is 135/160
  18. rcf925
    I'm finding it's all pretty much trial and error, What works for one doesn't necessarily work another
  19. rcf925
    I have a .292 cam, 9:8 CR, Racetek pistons balanced blueprinted motor with dual italian 45's. I started with 50 idle and had stumble off idle, Tried 55,60,65 idle, It likes 60 best no stumble with F9, 34 venturis, 135 mains. I don't have a way to check AFR but car is running great, I know is somewhat rich at idle but I'm ok with that. I also just re-synced my carbs which got rid of a underload 4th and 5th gear stumble
  20. rcf925
    I used high temp silicone, No Leaks
  21. rcf925
    And I am currently waiting from order on some Weber linkage from CarbDeal
  22. rcf925
    After spending hours and hours tuning my italian dual weber 45's I'm glad I did, Cured all my problems and learned a lot in the process, Latest was stumble under load in 4th and 5th gear at high revs, Thought was fuel pressure but I decided to check carb sync again and sure enough cured the problem, Not perfectly synced carbs cause all kinds of problems, Cured stumble off idle by going to 60 idle air jet from 50, Tried 65 but that was too much, Same with main jet started with 125 went to 130 then 135, Back to 130, Pulls hard all the way to 7500 . Last problem I'm tackling is my linkage which is IE early cable which is not very smooth or responsive so just ordered different style to smooth that out and I should be done. Tried finding locally a weber guru at numerous local shops, Crickets, Nobody would touch them. So anybody contemplating going to dual set-up be prepared to do it all yourself.
  23. rcf925
    Since I started my restomod on my 68 I couldn't get my blower motor working after sitting 20 years, Was dreading ripping it all out, Decided to reach in the top through cowl and spin by hand, Was pretty hard to turn, I dripped oil on top of bearing after a few tries it worked, Both speeds so now on to only thing left on car that doesn't work which is the Horn
  24. rcf925
    I have no dog in the hunt here and nothing better to do at the moment so anyone is looking here's a 68 1600 in Santa Barbara https://santabarbara.craigslist.org/cto/d/bmw/7120404285.html
  25. rcf925
    I used Total Seal rings which are a little harder, They recommend 2000 mile break in until fully seated, Break in depends on the build
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