2002#3

I have completed a "Euro" conversion on my '74 tii and used large, upright bumper guards (over riders) on the front. Now, I have a question: Were these guards appropriate? ...and in whose eyes? For a such a conversion, what determines the most appropriate front guards should be used, i.e., small rounded, pointed, or large upright? Or, is it simply a subjective call of the owner and "supportive" friends who sit around, drink his/her beer, and watch him/her work on the car? I seem to have seen mostly the pointed guards on our site and the internet. Thanks, Larry

Friends, After following up my original post on this topic, reading the several informative and thoughtful comments above, and copious amounts for surfing, I have found the info I needed re: seam covers. There seems to be four (4) different seam covers. for older models without a complete wrap-around rubber strip (short bumpers): # 51121803273 (L side, no shallow notch for rubber strip) # 51121803274 (R side, no shallow notch for rubber strip) for newer models with a complete wrap-around rubber strip (long bumpers): # 51121815481 (L side, shallow notch for long rubber strip) # 51121815482 (R side, shallow notch for long rubber strip) NOTE: Please let us/me know if my info is not correct. NOTE: There also is #51121806026 (no shallow notch). Cannot seem to determine which car/arrangement this one fits... There are several sources for these covers. Some sources can provide both L and R; some can provide only the L or the R, not both. In addition, the l and R usually are different prices. I ordered ---81 and ---82. I also ordered two (2) center section LP light, so now I am committed to the complete rear bumper Euro conversion. Will begin looking for a Euro center section with holes, not slots, for the rubber strip. (Side light holes are being filled this week to complete the conversion.)d For those of you who have not converted, see photos for an idea of some of the lower nose and rear valence body work which can accompany a conversion. Regards, Larry

Friends, In the attached foto from Vintage 2016, my car is on the right and MARTII's nice tii is on the left. I want to replace my rear bumper guards (old school term)/uprights with seam covers as are on MARTII's car and keep the rubber trim strip. My bumpers are 1972(?). I have not yet decided to convert the center section to one which contains plate lights as MARTII has done.) From what I understand after reading about covers on our illustrious site, there might more than one version of the covers: early/late? notched/un-notched? Do covers have to be notched? Any of you have covers appropriate for my bumper? I plan to contact BluntTech and Roger'stii. Thanks. Larry Cincinnati, Ohio

Thank you, Harold. Just the info I needed. Exactly. Will order today and have them sent to the body dude. Now off to Idaho for 3 weeks of backpacking. Regards, Larry

Friends, I need both L and R new rocker panels for my '74 tii. I could not find them at BluntTech or Rogerstii. The only source (other than dealers) I could find is Bavauto (OEM parts 41 35 6 440 140 [L] and --141 [R]) (see attached photos from seller's site). $112.00 each. 1. Did I miss them at BluntTech and Rogerstii? 2. Some sites mention "Rocker Panel Covers"? Is there a separate cover? Is this the same as or in addition to rocker panels? 3. Do you think the Bavauto rocker panels in the photos have (1) jack points and (2) the holes for the trim clips? I cannot tell. Thank you for the help and advice. Larry

Well, there it is! I was told today at a garage that sucker was there and you proved it. Thank you. Larry

Good suggestions. Thank you. Will re-check at least the valve closure. -- The heater valve is new and I can see it close completely if I remove the inlet heater hose and look into the engine side inlet of the valve. -- Foam on all flaps is new and appeared to seal rather nicely before re-assemblies and re-installations. Cannot check foam without the usual contortions and wrestling match.

The long screwdriver and LOTS of effort, indeed, work. Yes, the OEM rubber (photo by Buckeye) is the best one to use.

I have "overhauled"/"refurbished" my heater box (HB) 3 times to the point of it's working increasingly better each time. Now it seems to work as intended. (Yes, it took 3 times. I am setting new records for decreasing times required to remove and install a HB.) Seals, bushings, flaps, heater valve (HV), Bowden cables and adjustments, flushed HB radiator, epoxyed cracks, lubrication, lever functions, misc. adjustments, etc. All seems to open, close, flow, blow, defrost, and function exceedingly well. 3-speed fan works swimmingly. However, with the temp lever on COLD (HV closed) and the flow lever on HEAT (allows air into the footwell; HB radiator flap closed), the air from the HB into the footwell usually is uncomfortably warm (sometimes hot; occasionally sorta/kinda cool; not desired in summer). I realize the HEAT flow lever on OFF setting is not designed to completely stop outlide air from going through the HB radiator but; rather, the air mixes with cold air from the cowl. (Additional info: With the temp lever on HOT, I can cook a beef roast.) 1. In the COLD setting, shouldn't cowl air eventually (rapidly?) cool the radiator if the heater valve is closed so pass-through air to the footwell is not heated? Seems so. 2. Any explanations for the aforementioned uncomfortable (at least in the summer) warm air? I got none. Thanks to all of you who have contributed so much HB information to 2002FAQ. Such info has been exceedingly helpful during my Adventures into HB Refurbishments. Larry

Now, THAT'S a piece of 2002 work! Outstanding color, too. Thanks for sharing.

Enhanced grounding of the fuel and temp gauges is a good idea, certainly. Where is the best place to start the ground for each of these two gauges? The bakelite (?) back panel of these gauges has two brass slotted nuts attached to two bolts which project into and through the panel. Do these bolts connect directly to either or both gauges? Ground at these nuts? Ground inside the bakelite and more intimately somewhere within the gauges? Larry

Excellent suggestions and insight, guys, re: how to approach this rear view mirror issue. Is there anything in these cars that has not been adjusted, revised, altered, adultrated, fabricated, abused, or otherwise addressed? I think probably not. Larry

All black E21 sport/Ricaros. Horizontal. Center sections are corduroy-like fabric. Highly recommend fabric center sections. Extremely comfortable in long trips. Larry

Friends, What options have you folks found/used for a larger/wider-than-stock inside rear view mirror for a '74 tii? Stock mirror: rear view is not sufficient for my taste. E21 mirror: much better rear view but I found it a little awkward to (1) fit between the two sun visors and (2) to adjust for bright lights coming in from a trailing car. A good search of our site was not fruitful. Thanks, Larry '74 tii

PS: About 2 minutes after the video was made, it started raining like a tall cow pissing on a flat rock. PPS: One more foto... Larry

Scott and Other Organizers of Vintage 2016, All of your hard work and planning came to fruition perfectly. You did a superb job with the hotel (Clairon [can't beat $89]), home base (Asheville), and venue (beautiful and remote Hot Springs). We thank you so very much for making this event a well-worthwhile trip. Attached: A few of the participant cars and some sweet music from this year's Vintage. Larry Gray Cincinnati, Ohio IMG_3099 (1).m4v

Black Phillips-head screws with black washers. Ace Hardware.

Thanks. Let me know re: your luck/progress/outcome. I am still trying to determine a good way to install the bracket in the unequal rails. Will post my results. Thanks. Larry

Thanks, Mr. Stuff. PLEASE let me know how you manage to make it work. I am impressed with the design of the Bracketeer; however, we need to make to function for us. Meanwhile, I will do the same. Larry