tzei
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Everything posted by tzei
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Make vertical beads of glue, say 2” apart or so - might be able to breath moisture out.
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Oh yes and rears too. New E9/24 discs & pads for AP calibers. Next servicing half shafts...
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Thread and screw is same as fender screws. #07119916966 I think.
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Well kinda but that 0.1 mm is required preload for bearings. Shim i.d. Is about the same as i.d. on tube between bearings so spacer goes thru nicely.
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One shim under outside bearing.
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New front discs & pads.
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Q3: piston ring material depends on block material (bore surface metal). P/ring material & intented use (stock, race, turbo, nitrous etc.) determines ring gaps. Block & piston material and intented use determines bore to p/wall clearance. So near stock is where you want to be. I think. Before you buy some fancy nos pistons super cheap check that there is rings available. Modern rings are thinner and 4 mm oil rings are not nessesarily on every manufactures production any more.
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Can’t be 90 deg off. Cabin lever to full cold, release wire nut @ valve lever. Can you push it further (close)? ~> adjust cabin lever thingie. Not easy to get it right.
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Took it to a race track.
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You need to paint that dip stick! 😝 That is a beauty. Nicely done. Can’t help w/ spring thou.
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Amorphis - Halo
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Thanks but FunElan called it first.
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Cooked diode
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Looks like yours didn’t have washer under side. That would have stopped shaft entering that far up. here is something:
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I wouldn’t drive it. If the shaft gets scarred low enough it destroys the shock. Plus it’s about 15 min job to dissamble it, find substitute grommet and call it a day.
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Something is broken. Way too much movement & metal to metal sound. With good bushes it barely moves.
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Yea try to fix the seal. Drain hole - no no. btw that’s one helluwa skimmed cover u got there. Are you sure it is not coming from that welded part? Looks moist. Or somewhere upstream? There are lots of places it could seep a little.
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Door looks salvageable. … and bring memories of this Check Out This Cubed Porsche 911 WWW.MOTORIOUS.COM This atrocity was done in the name of “art.” why oh why?
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And with that older style cvj criclip has ears so differen pliers. Get that circlip to move around in its groove first. Then it comes off easily. They tend to be stuck. reassembly: clean cap and its mating surface good and use little sealant to secure it/ not to leak.
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Oh no. If there would be short throw 1.6/late 1.8 crank + 1.8 (higher) pistons then contact is/was made due wrong valve timing. Too shaved head (and/or deck) does not help. Again i have to point out that in pics is ”1.8i” head, not ”118”. Dimension vise there is no difference other than smaller i/e valves & ports and chamber volume.
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But crank may have been changed 🤪
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E21/ 2.0 Single row timing gear to E12 head.
tzei replied to Mikesmalaga72's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
S14 t/chain is double row. -
They’re rusted together. Joint side flange has a 2.5 mm lip over axle flange. WD etc and let it soak. Some hammering to the side. She’ll be alright.
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Not that bad looking rim at all. 13”x5” rim ( if that was only option for Libre) with 195/60 r13 tire… 185 might be better suited for this width. Wonder what’s the et’s on these? Beats any three spoke rim iteration known to man any given day imo. GLWS.
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118 head was with 1.6 L engine and has smaller valves e.g. 1502. Head with ”1.8i” was in early E21 318i (1.8 L engine) with K-jetronic injection. It has big valves as every 2.0 L engine head except ”121” head (44 mm intake vs 46 mm in all others).
