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tzei

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Everything posted by tzei

  1. tzei
    Yes the prolly are. Just to say that small units can be found at scrabyards.
  2. tzei
    Toyota HJ, Dyna. Mitsubishi Canter etc…
  3. tzei
    The car looks fine to me.
  4. tzei
    Odd one. When you get it to ”limp mode” what happens if you keep on going, say at that 25 mph? Limping for 5, 10, 15 mins - does it recover any or is that full stop only cure?
  5. tzei

    I’ll be offline 22.9 - 28.9.

  6. tzei
    I bought a set from WN. Had to make one custom end fitting, otherwise i’m happy.
  7. tzei
    Taken off from running 2.0L car then cleaned. Came to me as is. Linkage parts in pics is all i have. I might have + fuel reg. Shipment not included.
  8. tzei
    1) push the collar against coil spring to reweal snap ring. Pry it out. 2) saw/cut/grind slots for flat screwdriver. Open bolts. Key is nice to unlock steering lock. If no key then you’ll need to disassembly ignition. Iirc there is a small cotter pin that needs to come off. Little digging is reguired.
  9. tzei
    I was under impression that all 121 heads were 44/38 valved from factory. At least all i have encounterd have been so.
  10. tzei
    I’d try extracror socket first. then Welder. ”Grow” the stud with few tacks and weld a nut on it. You may need to repeat this a few times (as it will break) until heat has done it’s course, nut holds and stud gives. Bottom nuts, in engine bay = difficulty 100. Pull the head.
  11. tzei
    Chin to the chest and onwards to new dissappointments. I got clips n stuff from WN (oe). Trim piece hanging from upper portion of ”H” and then gently but firmly hammered with fist bottom to home. True, rockers needs to be straingt enough and holes in line. Then i know a case where said trims were glued on, held by cargo strips over the car.
  12. tzei
    Should fit as is but u might want/need to add 5 mm spacers (or so). Try one on and see where u at.
  13. tzei
    Lucky 7,oh2ryan and visionaut’s cars with 16” looks pretty good actually! hmmm
  14. tzei
    Yes but moved to 17”… bcz … race car
  15. tzei
    Seal should have numbers too.
  16. tzei
    Instrument panel off - 2 screws on either side and from underneath at the ends of upper part there are 8 mm nuts. Then lift. Lower part is held by upper part and screws that are under blower lever bezels and few others that are visible from underneath also. Clove box upper edge has some iirc and centre console has to come off too. Steering column bits are somewhat in a way so i’d take upper part off. Oh and l/r blover ducts to windshield have to off too.
  17. tzei
    Looks like a fork/support for stabilizer link but not (oe) from Z3.
  18. tzei
    Here is mine 6-speed turbo center console with FIA switch.
  19. tzei
    Yea got one w/ el.valve. A bit hard to see but lays on left frame rail.
  20. tzei
    Damn and I have only been fantasizing some ladies in my car.
  21. tzei
    Oh i have seen that construction expansion foam been used in this very space. I can confirm that when this ”repair” made itself known all was lost - big time. Amount of moisture it pulls is paffling and it will never give it away.
  22. tzei
    It is art in itself but not nessesarly root cause for radio interference. Or could it? Unplug all of em. Car should run - how in car audio entertainment system behaves?
  23. tzei
    Or bench test that radio & speakers. Oh and that left side of engine bay ”electrix” screams attention.
  24. tzei
    A pic or two might be nice to see what’s been done. Can’t get cheaper than square tube I guess but I’d still would save up and go with bespoke repair panels.
  25. tzei
    Interference comes from alt or ign.system. Check (again) radio’s earth. About 5kOhms on every plug/wire should do. Also there are anti-noise gismos out there for few bucks.
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