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Found 44 results

  1. I am cleaning out my storage unit and have a hood and rear windshield sitting in the corner that I don't have room for. I really don't want to throw them away. Free to anyone wiling to come pick them up. Hood looks pretty straight but has some surface rust and small rust spots in the normal underside seam spots. Windshield shows no cracks or chips. Zip code is 37801
  2. This is my first post on the forum. If this is in the wrong spot, please let me know. Brought home my 1975 '02 after my mother died. It's been sitting for many years since my father died a decade earlier. Keeping it running was something we did together. I had the car covered, but moisture made it way in the car, especially the interior. The hood is stuck shut. I used search on the forum, but can't quite find the answer I need. How do I get the hood open? I sprayed the hood release lever and it finally goes all the way down (and back). The cable is present and tight, but the hood doesn't release/unhook as the lever is moved back and forth. I don't want to remove the wrong pieces and make more work....as I'm not exactly a mechanic. Thanks!
  3. I am cleaning out my storage unit of parts that I no longer need. I made the price list quickly and without much thought so assume everything is OBO. I prefer not to ship larger items but am very flexible for pick up. Some items in pictures are not listed. If you see something you would like, make an offer. I am more than happy to met someone at the storage unit and take a look at everything. Oil Pump 75 Alternators x2 20 each Fuel Pumps x2 20 each Zender Front Air Dam 75 Rear Glass 50 4 speed trans 50 Hood (some rust on underside lip) 100 Engine block (Would need to be machined) 50 Cylinder Head ( Looks like it ate a ring on cylinder 1) 50 Two intake manifolds 20 each Two stock carbs 20 each Ignition Coil 10 Roundie Tail Lights 40 Mostly Full Set of Trim from Two Cars Fair Condition (One Car trip had been sprayed black) 200 Two Steering Columns 30 each US Turn Signal 15 Distributor x2 Instrument Cluster x2 Powder Coated Valve Cover 75 IMG_7708.MOV IMG_7712.MOV IMG_7713.MOV IMG_7716.MOV IMG_7717.MOV
  4. Hood and trunk in good condition hood chrome kinda dinged,
  5. 2k2tii

    WTB hood

    Located in Northern California
  6. Stumbled on several versions of hood louvers for later model BMW's, I have seen a few hood scoops on some prior threads, but couldn't find any louvers. Has anyone tried this? I think possibly one or both sides of the hood would help with heat dissipation. They could possibly allow for cooler and improved airflow for those with carbs. Has anyone tried this?
  7. Day 77 – Fully assembled. Hood I re-installed the trims on the hood and was ready to install it on the car. The installation/adjustment took longer than expected but it’s done now. I actually prefer the side profile of the car without the hood, more sleek. Things To Work Out My A/F gauge stopped working, the fuse had blown, I replaced the fuse but the readings are not good, it almost constantly displays 19.0 (which doesn’t make sense). I contacted support, recalibrated it with fresh air but something is still wrong. It will be bench tested...eventually. Still trying to tune the Webers but without the O2 sensor things are even more difficult. The engine idle speed, upon cold start-up is super slow, like 300 rpm and it struggles to stay alive. So I increase the idle speed with the idle speed screw, but once it warms up the motor speeds up to 2,500rpm. Not cool, man, not cool. The Oil temperature gauge is powered but the temp doesn’t increasing, need to check the wire for continuity (from the sender to the gauge). Throttle cable adjustment, there’s a little unwanted slack on the cable, no big deal. I currently have the rear bench delete installed but I’d like to get a rear bench, you know for all the bitchez I’ll be picking up. New aluminum gutter trim is no longer NLA, so I got my cousin at BMW to hook me up. Should be in, in a couple of weeks... if he comes through. Spin I took the car out for an official “everything is assembled” drive around Dorval, mostly a scenic route drive from my place to my parent’s. I was slightly rushed because I had dinner plans but things felt good, no unexpected vibrations. Decisions Front end With the front bumper deleted, I find the front end lacking a something to keep it from looking like a watercraft. I bought the Ireland Engineering Front Air Dam in January (2016) with plans of installing it unpainted (with the ‘Turbo’ rubber trim and rivets). The black plastic matches the rear bumper. I still need to put a little more thought in to this and probably won’t do anything until next spring. I also need to decide between adhesive and rivets. I was also was thinking about installing some (yellow lens) driving lights. This is why I pre-wired a switch in the center console and a wire sitting behind the grill just waiting for some action. Lower Stainless trim I think the car looks better without them, so I will search from flush some plastic plugs and paint them Verona red. BBS RM Center Caps BBS center caps have always been a thing with me I find the wheels look better without the ring/large center cap so I ordered some small centers to fit in the smaller hole, maybe that with a combination of painting the center black, we’ll see. I’m always on the lookup for some light 13” wheels. Conclusion/Thanks Would I do this all again? Yes, but I would have liked to know what I was getting into when I bought the car… although, if I knew, would I have bought it, probably not. So, one could say things worked out well. Should you do it? Yes, I went in to this project with limited mechanical knowledge (possibly an understatement), I didn’t know things. Now, well, I still don’t know things but I have completely disassembled and reassembled a BMW 2002. There is still a lot to learn about this car especially in the engine bay but if you’re not afraid to get your hands dirty, DO IT! Whether you restore an old BMW or an old Kia, I'm pretty sure you'll enjoy it. Is It Really Finished? Of course not, it will never be. I'll always be finding new things to change, improve, repair... that's the whole fun of owning a "project." Merci! Thanks to Kosta & Ernest (& Mike), especially for helping with the disassembly. I know it was tough for them to come give a hand during the reassembly since they both had a newborn, together, obviously. Although Kosta was very helpful installing the PITA sub-frames. Ernest still hasn't seen the car since it's been back from paint . Thanks to the good people on BMW2002FAQ, really a fantastic resource. Thanks to everyone who followed my build thread! ...an even bigger thanks to those who liked my posts! ... ...and an even bigger thanks to those who posted comments! ...and finally, here are a couple of shot from a little drive on October 30th (before the Nov 1 winter storage).
  8. My torsion bar never worked on my car so i recently set about to convert the hood to gas struts. I ordered 20" extended 30lb struts off amazon (12" closed) and 10mm ball studs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3H1AQE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXYP21F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The top and bottom brackets are made out of 1 inch thick wall aluminum L bar. The bottom bracket is a 7 inch piece of L bar with an M8 hole to attach to the old mount and another M8 hole for the 10mm ball mount to attach. The Ball mount should be drilled towards the top so the strut can clear underneath as it rotates. The L bar was also bent slightly to push the ball stud 10mm closer to the engine bay and bolted in and stuck down with 3m tape. The top bracket is a straight piece of L beam 12 inches long. I used the end cap off the old torsion bar as a template to draw in my dill holes. The drill holes are situated to make the bracket angle backwards about an inch towards the hood. This raises the shock off the fender when closing the hood. The 10mm ball stud is just drilled in on the end. I added a 3/4 inch square cross brace to the hood to give the hood rigidity when opening and closing or else the hood tends to webble wooble when being opened or closed. The bar is 54 1/4 inches long and cut exactly to length the fit between the brackets. It is then bolted in place with a M8 bolt and nut and really makes a good difference opening and closing the hood. Be careful, the cross bar just clears the fender by 1mm so your hood clearances need to be spot on or the cross bar could hit the fender. View full article
  9. Free hood, rear windshield and quarter glass set. Right now it's taking up space in my garage and I want it to go to a good home instead of throwing it all away. If you are at The Vintage this weekend, my house is about two hours west. Or you can take the scenic route through the mountains. Nice drive on some twistys plus free parts?? It's a win win! Email me at jwill214jacob@gmail.com
  10. Pair of hood prop bar pivot bolts, nuts and washers. Removed from a 73 02. Price includes shipping to conus w paypal friends preferred
  11. Picked up this hood 3 years ago and it has never been mounted - just sitting in my garage, time to let it go. Unpainted, black. This is the hood that takes standard mounting hardware. $800 obo Turbo air dam plus this hood $900 pick-up only, will not ship Dennis pics in the next couple days, one on the bay now for $1300+ (But they do ship 🙁) Need this gone .....best offer at/over $675!!!!!!
  12. $100 + shipping
  13. American Racing Carbon Fiber Hood. this is the product listed as $850 new https://www.americaninternationalracing.com/product/front-hood-4/ new...never mounted. 1/3 the weight of stock hood. light and strong. black gel coat that can be painted to match car. when AIR made this one, they goofed up the stock mounting points so it will not just bolt up to the factory hardware. it would be perfect for race car or to use hood pins to attach to street car......or if you are want to put some effort into realigning the mount points. i was keeping it as a spare to the one i have in the pictures, but really don't need it and it is taking up space. WILL NOT SHIP. Pick up in Alexandria, VA or I can deliver to the Vintage in May. $500
  14. bmwbabe

    Lake Shot

    From the album: 1976 Verona BMW 2002

    © Aspen Rose Photography

  15. bmwbabe

    Lake Shot

    From the album: 1976 Verona BMW 2002

    © Aspen Rose Photography

  16. bmwbabe

    Lake Shot

    From the album: 1976 Verona BMW 2002

    © Aspen Rose Photography

  17. bmwbabe

    Country Gal

    From the album: 1976 Verona BMW 2002

    When I first bought the car I took it around Portand for some shots.

    © Aspen Rose Photography

  18. bmwbabe

    Mug Shot

    From the album: 1976 Verona BMW 2002

    When I first bought the car I took it around Portand for some shots.

    © Aspen Rose Photography

  19. Funny - I haven't been able to find any tutorial on how to actually remove / replace the BMW hood and trunk roundels. Do they just pop off? I saw some videos on YouTube for newer model cars suggesting shimmying a zip-tie under them and yanking them off. I ordered some replacements that are in the mail, but realized I didn't know how to get at them when I looked under the hood today. Cheers! Chris
  20. Hi All, Looking to buy an early center hood trim piece for a 1600/2002. It should have perforations like the attached picture. If your not comfortable with packaging it you can drop it off at FedEx and give them my account # - they'll do the rest. Thanks!
  21. These are currently back ordered from BMW per Blunt. Looking for something usable until they're available. I'm looking for both short flaps that go on either end of the hood latch rod, and the long seal that runs across the hood to seal the heater box from the engine compartment.
  22. Come get this 73 polaris hood out of my yard before the scrapper does. It includes the hinges and tension bar. Its got a small rusty area on the front edge you can't see from the inside, otherwise clean and solid. 45min North of LA, 45min South of Santa Barbara
  23. Looking for the long strip under the hood, which is located near the windshield. I believe the part number is: 51235480192 thanks, Anthony
  24. Price:: 1 Location: : Sacramento, CA Hi All, Looking to buy a center hood trim piece for a 1600. It should have perforations like the attached picture. If your not comfortable with packaging it you can drop it off at FedEx and give them my account # - they'll do the rest. Thanks.
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