'76mintgrün'02

Notice that the source I edited into my post above offers free shipping (3-5 day) and the bushings are only around $12 a piece. That deal seems hard to beat. Tom

I've had my key not want to turn but then got it to move while rocking the steering wheel back and forth. It is like the wheel locking mechanism interferes with the key rotation. It'd be nice if that was your problem. Maybe you've already tried that. Tom

Yes, that was just two posts ago. I'd say John earned a click of the "solution" button!

Thanks, Mike. Here's one on eBay for half that. I am surprised it is housed in a metal sleeve. 4853660010 Genuine Toyota BUSH(FOR FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER), RH/LH 48536-60010 WWW.EBAY.COM Condition:OEM 100% GENUINE NEW PART. This item may fit left, right, or both sides, depending on vehicle specs. GRJ150R-GKTEKN GDJ150,GRJ150,KDJ150,LJ150,TRJ15# 08.2017 -. ATM,MTM: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION; NO. EDIT-- I just noticed that my link is from a source outside of the USA and shipping is more than the part costs. Here is a better source, with free shipping. 4853660010 Genuine Toyota BUSH (FOR FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER), RH/LH 48536-60010 WWW.EBAY.COM New, from bulk box.

The "blue wires" are the rubber jackets that cover the actual wires. I'm guessing that one of the wires that connects to the + side of the coil looks like an old speaker wire, with yellowed clear insulation. That's the resistor wire, which brings the stock coil up to approximately 3 ohms of resistance. The blue coil already has resistance built in, so you need to bypass that wire and run a new wire to provide 12 volts. If you use the search function using terms like "speaker wire, resistor wire, blue coil" etc, you will find a ton of helpful information. Here's a quick search I just did. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/search/?q=resistor wire crimp distributor &quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=8 I see that John is typing, so I'll stop now. Tom

It doesn't sound like a very deep rabbit hole, if they gave you the part number. Could you please share that information here?

230 mm

My mirror has been floppy since before I owned the car. I think the door skin around the cage nuts is bent. The slotted screw is stuck and I haven't felt like attempting to drill it out, so I let it flop. I went to RealOEM and they say the little grub screw is NLA but they do list the part number and Roger's Tii claims to have them for sale for $.95. It is listed as a 320i part, but shares the same number as ours. The tip of the screw is tapered, so a hardware store set screw may not be an exact match. I assume the taper mates up to a ramped end of the bracket that's mounted on the door, to pull it in tight. It wouldn't be too hard to add that feature to a hardware store screw, if you bought a long enough one. You could buy a nut and a screw with the same threads and cut off the screw's head, so you can chuck it up in a drill and then use a nut to hold the hex end of the grub screw to the end of the long screw and use a grinder to put a point on it while spinning it. Just remember lefty-loosey -- righty-tighty, so the pieces stay together. Edit- you might be able to put a point on a new set screw by chucking a cut-off allen wrench in a drill and using that to hold the screw, while pointing the screw up at the grinding wheel to shape it. I was hoping the RealOEM site would list the screw specs, but no such luck. No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Rear view mirror 1 51161801866 ENDED 02 Csk.fillister head srew AM4X22 1 07119901723 ENDED 03 Washer A6,4-ZNNIV SI 1 07119904202 04 Set tooth washer 25 A6,4 1 07509064287 ENDED 05 Hex bolt M6X10-8.8 ZNS 1 07/1977 07119913117 $0.40 ENDED 05 Hex bolt M6X10-8.8-ZNS3 1 07119904633 $0.20 06 Nut M4 1 07129925804 $1.09 ENDED 07 Exterior mirror left TRAPEZ 1 51161804452 $202.45 07 Exterior mirror right TRAPEZ 1 51161807702 $202.45 08 Grub screw 1 51161808536 $2.16 ENDED 09 Csk.fillister head srew M4X20 2 07119928439 $2.87 10 Seal seft TRAPEZ 1 51161807731 $12.80 10 Seal right TRAPEZ 1 51161807732 $12.80 11 Mirror holder 2 51161832567 $7.17 ENDED 12 Frame 1 51161807748 $18.58 ENDED 13 Mirror glass (driver's side) TRAPEZ 1 51161807747 $38.24 ENDED 13 Mirror glass (co-driver's side) TRAPEZ 1 51161807753 $38.24 ENDED 14 Exterior mirror right RHD 1 51161821794 $204.09 15 Mirror holder 2 51161832567 $7.17 ENDED 16 Seal seft 1 51161822061 $12.09 16 Seal right 1 51161822062 $12.09 20 Nut M4 2 07129925804 $1.09 ENDED Notes

I can. 2575485. Not the original rivets, but it might be the original plate. (it isn't in the registry)

Here is the RealOEM drawing for clarification. Apparently, it is part # 13511256958. (#5 in the drawing) No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Hex nut M6-8-ZNS 1 07119922832 $0.37 ENDED 01 Hex nut M6-8-ZNNIV SI 1 07119905543 $0.38 02 Wave washer B6 4 07119932072 $0.09 ENDED 03 Washer 6,4 1 01/1970 10/1975 07119931044 $0.58 ENDED 03 Washer A6,4-ZNS 1 01/1970 10/1975 07119931018 $0.40 ENDED 03 Washer A6,4-ZNNIV SI 1 01/1970 10/1975 07119904202 04 Hex bolt M6X30 2 01/1970 10/1975 07119913575 $0.20 ENDED 04 Hex bolt M6X30-8.8-ZNS3 2 01/1970 10/1975 07119904116 $0.38 05 Holder 1 01/1970 10/1975 13511256958 ENDED 06 Hex bolt M6X12 1 01/1970 10/1975 07119913442 $0.25 ENDED 06 Hex bolt M6X12-8.8-ZNNIV 1 01/1970 10/1975 07119905524 $0.27 07 Support 1 11531256301 ENDED 08 Compression spring 1 01/1970 10/1975 13511260192 ENDED 09 Regulator warm-up-phase 1 01/1970 10/1975 13511256538 $495.30 ENDED 09 AT-warm-up regulator 1 01/1970 10/1975 13511256543 ENDED 10 Ball joint 1 13511256077 ENDED 11 Covering cap 1 13511257374 ENDED

You can go to RealOEM, select the "Classic" category and enter your vehicle information, so you can browse their drawings/diagrams to find the part number of your missing bracket and then search the web using that number. Here's a link to the site. RealOEM.com - Select Your BMW Model WWW.REALOEM.COM RealOEM.com BMW Parts website. This site can be used to look up BMW part numbers and approximate part prices. The Parts are grouped into diagrams and diagrams are grouped into categories and subcategories Once you get the site dialed in to your car, you can bookmark it so it is easy to get back there again. It is a great resource. You can also post a "wanted" ad in the parts wanted forum. Just hover over "Forums" at the top of the page and click "classifieds" and then select "parts wanted" and "start new topic". It might help to copy the RealOEM diagram that shows your bracket into your ad, so people know what you need.

Thanks for posting photos of your engine bay. Someone has replaced the original exhaust manifold with an earlier one, eliminating much of the plumbing. If the back-end bosses are not drilled for fittings, it may be a Tii manifold. It looks like you have a Bosch Blue Coil, which has built in resistance, eliminating the need for the resistor wire that's hiding inside the blue sheath. You're better off giving that coil the full 12v. I have my fuel tank vent tube plumbed into that tiny fitting on the air cleaner. I don't have a charcoal canister either. I get brown sour cream in the breather during the cooler months, due to condensation. I just clean it out once in a while and wipe it off of the underside of the air cleaner lid; then use a rag to rub that delicious lotion onto my valve cover and intake manifold, to keep them from turning chalky, due to condensation.

Blunttech.com sells the taller fuel pump that clears the coolant hose and I'll bet they'll have the seals as well. They even put the coolant hose clearance issue in the pump description. BluntTech Industries • FUEL PUMP WWW.BLUNTTECH.COM Long neck to clear the water hose

Combining that with this would sure be cool. The body of the dual-action advance-pod is pretty big. You could hide the wires in the vacuum tubes. Please take a lot of photos to share! Tom

I googled up the bloo BMW coolant to see if it was long-life. It is. I'm glad. Here's what I read ARE LONG LIFE COOLANTS REALLY LONG LIFE? Long-life coolants, or Extended Life Coolants (ELC), offer a 5-year or 150,000-mile service life protection. Most OAT (Organic Acid Technology) or HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolants today, including OEM BMW coolants, are extended life coolants. That said, their long lifespan is not an indication that you must replace the coolant only every 5 years or 150,000 miles. While these coolants are designed to last that long, we recommend sticking to a 2-year or 30,000-mile replacement interval. This way, the fluid in your cooling system is always in prime condition. Taken from here BMW Coolant – What to Get and What to Avoid – Bimmers.com BIMMERS.COM Using the right BMW coolant for your car is essential if you want your engine to run smoothly. Here's what coolant to get and what to avoid at all costs. Five years works for me. Thanks for the insight, jimk. Here's what I setup to catch my spills. It'd also work well for general cleaning under the hood. It's nice to be able to catch the mess(es). This is a dirty hobby.

They look fine from here. The outards look good too. Nice cleaning job.

I'll bet the same cut-jug would also catch the oil when changing the filter. That was a laundry detergent jug. I'd like to make another using a 5qt. VR-1 jug. I wonder if your coolant catcher could be cut from an antifreeze jug. I've got a small assortment of plastic jug and bottle funnels. It makes me happy to postpone their disposal. Thank you for sharing your solution.

I have not made one but this one looks like it'd be easy enough to copy. CARBURETTOR AUXILIARY VENTURI CHOKE REMOVER / PULLER TOOL - Classic Carbs UK CLASSICCARBS.CO.UK Auxiliary Venturi removal tool. Suitable for Carburettors which have removable auxiliary venturis. NOT suitable for WEBER IDF Carburettor. This tool hooks and pulls the auxiliary venturi out. Very useful when restoring/repairing carburettors with seized/stuck auxiliary venturis. Can be very...

It goes here. No, wait. Here. I mean here. Or, possibly here?

It does. Clicking on the "Validate Fitment" box brings up the list. BMW 2002 1975 BMW 2002 Voltage Regulator External 1976 BMW 2002 Voltage Regulator External 1968 BMW 2002 Voltage Regulator External 1969 BMW 2002 Voltage Regulator External 1970 BMW 2002 Voltage Regulator External 1971 BMW 2002 Voltage Regulator External 1972 BMW 2002 Voltage Regulator External 1973 BMW 2002 Voltage Regulator External 1974 BMW 2002 Voltage Regulator External BMW 2002tii 1971 BMW 2002tii Voltage Regulator External 1972 BMW 2002tii Voltage Regulator External 1973 BMW 2002tii Voltage Regulator External 1974 BMW 2002tii Voltage Regulator External

Here is a good discussion. It sounds like the only difference is whether they're marked with an E or SAE, to show that they meet the requirements in Europe, or USA.

I'll bet that fixed it. That sleeve does need to be a tight press-fit onto the nipple though. The clamp will not squish the sleeve.

Nah. Old school is too cool.

(which is frustrating)

I used a laundry jug. If it is too bulky, cut it smaller. They discussed the baggie-trick in this thread. Tom