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  1. I’m looking for the hardware necessary to attach the 318i alternator to the M10 engine. thanks
  2. The bushes were shot in my alternator, it was quite noisy and the 'L' light would glow slightly while the engine was running. To be fair, it had no charging issues and this could be high resistance somewhere in the wiring. I had tightened the fan belt as this was quite slack and I could see the alternator deflect due to the poor bushes which had turned to mush. Following this I had noticed a small dribble of coolant coming from my water pump so I assume that the extra load from the fan belt may have pushed the bearings over the edge. Pushing on the fan, I could feel some play in the shaft. Tim
  3. 1. Basic Description of 02 Charging/electrical System The 02 charging system converts mechanical energy into electrical energy when the motor is running. Your 02 requires electrical energy to (i) start the motor and run the ignition system, and (ii) operate electrical accessories (e.g., lights, wipers, heater blower, and stereo). Whenever output of the alternator exceeds the demand of the system, that output is available to recharge or maintain the battery’s state of charge. The charging system is comprised of the alternator, voltage regulator, battery and associated wiring. The original fac
  4. I'm finishing a rebuild and while the bay was left relatively straightforward regarding wires, I still can't figure out where they all lead. Specifically, I'm having trouble deciding which wires plug into where. Currently, I have two artery lines; one goes to the alternator and one comes from under the radiator coolant reservoir. The artery to the alternator (3rd photo) breaks off into 3 wires which consist of two connector plugs and one big obvious alternator plug. The other artery (1st photo) that comes from the firewall, breaks into two portions and seven connector plugs. Additionally, I'm trying to figure out how the main wiring connects to the battery. I have a cable going from the positive side to the battery, is there an auxiliary line from the main wiring to the battery? (2nd photo) Any advice/ resources are much appreciated. If there is anyone in Phoenix I'd love to compare engine bays!
  5. SOLD 2002 OEM battery ground strap, almost new: $35 Stock 2002 alternator, almost new, maybe 40 miles (not shown): $60 SOLD 2002 Voltage regulator, nearly new, solid state, black plastic enclosure (not shown): $20 SOLD 2002 blue coil (not shown): $35 Passenger door vent window, clear glass (not shown): $40 e30 battery cable for trunk relocation, smaller wire has a cut: $40 SOLD e30 325is bbs wheels, 4x100 14x6.5 et30, so-so tires mfg 11/2014 195/60r14: $500 2002 seat rails, kinda chunky feeling, but both move: $60 for both sets US rear/side marker lights and reflectors: $80/all SOLD US blinkers, need one new gasket: $20/both URO window gaskets front and rear, new never installed, chrome strip not included: $50 Looking for/ trade/ WTB (want to buy): black early passenger door card w/out speaker hole, 3 bolt output flange for 320i transmission, period correct driving lights clear, rear vinyl seat material black (to recover center section of drivers seat cushion) DM for total with shipping, PayPal or Venmo. Thanks!
  6. I thought I'd replace my alternator of unknown age prior to the 9 hour drive to the Vintage. Got the "standard" Bosch AL89X regulator and when I pulled my existing unlabeled regulator found I opened a can-o-worms. Quick background: I've only had the 76 2002 for less than 2 years having purchased it from a friend who was the second owner for 30 years. I have lots of documents/receipts but nothing on an alternator and forum search didn't help. First photo shows the new Bosch AL89X on left and "mystery" Bosch from my car. The BIG difference is the wiring,. There is no red hot wire coming from battery/solder joint#30. I have D+ / center 10 ga. spade and B+ right 10 ga. spade connections = only 3 wires. Further probing shows the stock voltage regulator is disconnected and spade terminals covered. (last photo) I did some searching on the Bosch voltage regulator on back and the #1197311009 (now 1197311028) shows used on VW Rabbits among other cars. The RockAuto Bosch photos for 1980 VW Rabbit AL113X has identical wiring connections and looks very similar but is 65 amp and has an internal voltage regulator. SO... was the VW rabbit alternator a common upgrade along with the 320i e21 alternator back in the day? At this point its too late to order a new alternator based on an assumption and probably have this regulator rebuilt after the Vintage trip by a local Amish shop who is extremely reasonable. Thanks for any old timer help...
  7. I was hoping to upgrade my alternator to the 80A 318i M10 unit. My cousin had a spare long block and gave me the alternator from it. this is definitely not the original unit. I believe this is the 40 or 50 Amp"justy denso" unit? Not what I was hoping for but it was free so I guess I will give it a try and continue the hunt for the "elusive" 80 amp unit. Just wondering if it will work as well as how to wire it up properly. Thanks in advance!
  8. Hi, I’m replacing the alternator adjustment bracket bushings. The nut is stuck: the stud is backing out. I PB blasted the nut. Should I take the stud out, replace bushings, screw it back in and hope the nut tightens when I put it back in? Take it out and give the nut and threads a good soak? New stud and nut? I’m not mechanical and appreciate the help. Thanks Alex
  9. I am cleaning out my storage unit of parts that I no longer need. I made the price list quickly and without much thought so assume everything is OBO. I prefer not to ship larger items but am very flexible for pick up. Some items in pictures are not listed. If you see something you would like, make an offer. I am more than happy to met someone at the storage unit and take a look at everything. Oil Pump 75 Alternators x2 20 each Fuel Pumps x2 20 each Zender Front Air Dam 75 Rear Glass 50 4 speed trans 50 Hood (some rust on underside lip) 100 Engine block (Would need to be machined) 50 Cylinder Head ( Looks like it ate a ring on cylinder 1) 50 Two intake manifolds 20 each Two stock carbs 20 each Ignition Coil 10 Roundie Tail Lights 40 Mostly Full Set of Trim from Two Cars Fair Condition (One Car trip had been sprayed black) 200 Two Steering Columns 30 each US Turn Signal 15 Distributor x2 Instrument Cluster x2 Powder Coated Valve Cover 75 IMG_7708.MOV IMG_7712.MOV IMG_7713.MOV IMG_7716.MOV IMG_7717.MOV
  10. So let me lay out some history with this problem. Just about a month ago, my battery kept draining. After some looking around, it turned out the seals on the alternator were broken (not allowing the alternator to turn/rotate the belt on startup because the alternator was so loose and moving around with the broken/squashed seals). I had already picked up a used alternator from another 2002, so was sort of at split roads — should I swap the seals into my original one and use the rest of the life it has or swap in the new used one (which I don't know the health of). I decided to swap seals, use original one meanwhile keeping the other one as a spare. Problem solved, we're running again. I recently purchased some new brighter & stronger headlights (since mine were giving out within time anyways). I went with the praised HELLA Vision Plus Halogen Conversion Headlamp 12V 60/55W (HB2) headlights. After receiving, simply connected the old wire back to the headlights and popped them back in. On my drive home from the coast the next day, my lights were working nicely and strongly (very impressed). Once I had arrived, turned off my engine. When I went to start it back up, dead. Nothing. I was sort of confused, since 60/55W is what can be used on my stock '76 without relays (from what I understand). Now, everytime I need to drive — need a jump start. I let it charge for a good 10 minutes off my other sedan, and without the lights on it seemed to startup next time if I made sure not to turn on my headlights. But if it's a quick jumpstart, it'll be dead next time you're starting it. I've been told it can't be the alternator instead an exposed wire, while some say it's the alternator going bad. What are my first steps? Can someone give me a direction of where I should get started? Sorry for the rant, hope someone can help me on here. Many thanks!..,
  11. Price:: 125.00 Location: : PNW These are getting hard to find, ready to install: Real OEM Tii Alternator, tested, cosmetically restored with pully Cadmium plated Tii Alternator bracket Later Tii harness Fan pully $125. + actual shipping. PayPal preferred. Please email: [email protected] to Inquire or purchase
  12. Friends, need your help trying a problem with my 2002's charging system. Last weekend, when I was out with the local '02 group, the car would not start after a rest stop on my way home. Looked like a dead battery, so I push-started it and got home. When I went to park it in the garage, it refused to start again, so I jump started it. I pulled out the positive terminal, and the engine did not die, which tells me that the alternator is alternatin'. However, I noticed this cable coming out from the alternator. It was not connected to anything. Upon checking my Prospero's Garage electrical diagram, it seems that juice from the alternator goes back direct to the battery. Could this loose cable be a kluge by the PO to make up for a split cable inside the wiring sleeve coming from the alternator? Your thoughts are appreciated.
  13. Price:: 140.00 Location: : Huntington Beach Hi guys, I have a nearly new E21 alternator with an IE racing pulley. I ended up replacing it with a different alternator because I hated seeing my alt light flicker during idle. All I needed to do was change the pulley, but I was even too lazy to do that. So I bought an entirely different one. The pulley itself is a good chunk of change, so this is a very good deal if you want to be a racecar driver. If my memory serves me correctlly, the larger alternator allows the alternator to spin slower, thus drawing less parasitic drag on the the engine. Great for racecar guys, or crazy street drivers. Here are a few photos: I can have this unit shipped out immediately. The price includes shipping, but you pay the paypal fees. Thanks, Ryan Danco
  14. Sunday before last, I was 150 miles in to a 175 mile drive when the charging light came on. I stopped and made sure that the fan belt was still there. It was. Drove the rest of the way home with out any other incident. Monday I put the battery charger on all day. That night the fully charged battery showed a replace condition on the battery tester. Went to O'Reily's the next day and exchanged it(By the way, the salesman mentioned that all of their batteries now have a two year replacement warranty. No pro-rated warranty after that.) Cleaned the battery cables and hooked everything back up. The charging light was still on. Removed the alternator(8 year old NPR 85 amp) and took it to have it tested. It passed the test? Came home and cleaned all of the contact points with emery paper, exersized the push contacts. When everything was back together - No Charging light. Charging at 13.8 volts Moral of the story - Do the easy things first. Don't be too quick to just replace parts. This Sunday I will take it for a good drive and make sure it is still going strong. This might be just a wake up call. I might think about buying another alternator just in case. Eight years on a rebuilt alternator isn't too bad though. Collin 1976 Chamonoix Scottsdale, AZ 117 in the shade.
  15. In preparation for installing a nice stereo with Jason's kick panels and sub enclosure, I've started working on an alternator upgrade. I've reviewed zeebuck's blog (http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/318alternator/318ialternator.html) post on the subject but I'm starting with a rebuilt alternator rather than a junkyard setup. This means I didn't get the alternator pulley or fan, just a bit and washer. I pulled the original alternator hoping I could just swap the pulley and fan over, but the shaft is longer and the woodruf key is a different size so I ordered the pulley, fan and correct woodruf key. For bracketry, I'm using the stock upper mount but swapping bushings. I've found several posts confirming this works and verified dimensions with a micrometer. For the lower mount, I plan to increase the offset bent into the stock bracket and use a longer bolt. Looks like I need around 30mm of offset. I'm not too worried about the wiring, that's well documented many places including zeebuck's 318 article linked above and jrhone's recent video on the e21 alternator- http://project2002.com/?p=1603 I'll probably install with original wiring (with external regulator bypassed/removed) to verify it all works, then replace the ground and main charging lead with 4 gauge wire prior to installing the stereo. For anyone that's already done this, any pointers or tips? Have I missed anything I should add to my shopping list? I've checked with several junkyards locally, but no luck finding a donor m10 or m20eta to steal parts from.
  16. I am planning an upgrade / rewire of my battery cables, B+ to my alternator and starter. I am also going to add a circuit breaker and feed to an amplifier under my rear seat. What I intended to do is replace the 'solder point' shown at No 10 with a circuit breaker with 8mm stud terminals mounted on the inner wing above the battery. The 4sq mm wire to the alternator will be replaced with something like 10 sq mm and wired to the breaker input side along. The 6 sq mm will be replaced by whatever size I eventually pick for the feed to the amplifier. This won't be massive (my amp is not that powerful) maybe 16 sq mm. The breaker will be sized based on protecting the amp feed wire. This will provide little protection for the smaller circuits since they would fry before the breaker operates. This is no worse than the existing arrangement of unfused feeds at this point. I will also be tidying up any other wiring in the area, body grounds, alternator ground etc. The existing 6 sq mm wire to the ignition switch and 2 x 2.5 sq mm wires would all be terminated on the outgoing side of the breaker. I would also terminate my amp feed here. This brings me back to my query - who can show me their wiring in this area? Neat ideas for running and insulating these heavy current, unfused wires? How does your battery + cable run to your starter? Where is it all secured? Most cars seem to have pretty untidy wiring in this area. How did it come from the factory, bone stock? Who has done a similar mod as my proposal? Over to you.
  17. Here are some parts I am selling because I like to buy extras of everything. 1972 4 speed Tranny -$100 obo SOLD=Front seats Passenger is great, Driver has a cut, no rails. Early Gas Tank- $100 obo not dents but hasn't been used in 20 years. Oil Pump- $150 obo was in a running rebuilt motor I bought. looks great, the piston hole is clean with no markings SOLD-NIB Pertronix 3ohm Coil- $20 Bosch Alternator- $50 obo tested and works with external regulator Bosch Remanufactured- $40 obo smog pump- $10obo smog Exhaust Manifold- $20 1bbl 1972 Manifold- $40obo SOLD=Fridgiking Complete A/C Unit- Center console, pump, radiator, canister, blower, and cut hoses- if anyone is or knows of someone that is looking for 318is motor,tranny,ecu and 4:10 lsd please let me know I am selling that as well. message me any questions you may have, Thank you! -Chris everything here is old (Minus Coil) but will all work
  18. Real quick clarification. The bar that connects to the block and to one of the alternator main bolts.. that allows you to tighten and loosen the belt tension.... is it completely flat or is there a slight kink/offset in it. Mine has a slight kink/offset, but it looks more bent than intended, so just wanted to know before I start heating it up and hammering it flat. Thanks !!
  19. Hey guys, i am troubled and frustrated - I replaced my battery and voltage regulator (a nice Beru regulator and fitted autozone battery (Duralast?)) because initially it popped both my headlights and the same time whilst driving in the dark (fortunately my high-beams worked enough to get me home). i noticed my battery was puffy so that's when I replaced the reg. and bat. And headlights. This worked for 2 months and then my new battery literally exploded. Terrible egg smell, battery adic instantly corroded my battery tray and radiator. Once I got the battery out I gave my engine bay a baking soda scrub down and rinsed - fortunately autozone has excellent warranty coverage so I got a free battery and drove my car over to them to check the system- they said my 2 month old beru V-reg was dead and in the 1mi drive over to them it also killed the new battery the just gave me. So I replaced both again (oh yes, my headlights popped again...) anyways, all said and done, they have me the green light and said all systems were working properly and no over charge was occurring. I drove it for 3 days and low and behold my battery broke AGAIN. So so now I need help. Wtf is going on? I had my alternator rebuilt 3 years ago and it has never given me this trouble... and you'd think the v-reg would be doing its job but instead it just breaks. (Also, the atlatik automatic sunroof 73 as seen in pics is for sale. $3500 BaT -after rebuilding calipers and replacing master break cylinder I haven't bled the brakes... and some dummy pushed my break peddle and sucked a bunch of air in the lines. More pics if re-quested)
  20. I have for sale a 55 Amp Bosch AL116X Alternator. It has less than 3,000 mi on it and works perfectly. This is a direct drop in upgrade for your 2002 alternator. No $250 E30 mounting brackets, no need to drain and pull the entire radiator, fan assembly and water pump pulley. Nada. Just unbolt the old one - and stick this one in. You snip two wires, add a spade connector and you're in business. It even has an internal voltage regulator so you can throw the old one into your neighbor's pool. This is a great upgrade if you're still running the original alternator and is a 1.5 hour install. $95 and free shipping. I also have the 2002 mounting brackets and brand new bushings for it if you like that I will throw in for $20.
  21. Howdy, So I realized that my 320i BOSCH AL116X alternator is only 55 Amps, and ain't cutting it with the amount of fog lights I run for the San Francisco Bay Area. I know there 318i puts out 80 Amps, but I was curious if there was an alternator that would fit that had some serious grunt? I have an electric fan that is mounted in front of my radiator, so I have plenty of room. I know the 318i requires the mounting bracket and hardware, along with the wire conversion, but it seems the wire conversion was already performed when my 320i alternator was installed. Recommendations? What have other folks ran? Thanks!
  22. I know this has been asked in various forms, but I want to get some opinions on how to proceed. I ordered a remanufactured AL41X alternator, but didn't notice it has solid mounts until after I bought it. See attached image: So I have three options: 1) Leave it solid mounted. 2) Machine the holes to fit urethane bushings. 3) Return it and get one with bushings. Will the vibrations from the engine somehow damage the alternator, or is it okay to run it as is? Thanks!
  23. Price:: 45 Location: : PNW Real clean, spotless 2002 Alternator, includes alternator wiring harness Cadmium plated alternator bracket for 2002 Alternator $45. each plus actual shipping. PayPal preferred. Please email (or PM, I don't check the replies to this topic often): [email protected] to inquire or purchase.
  24. Hi everyone, has anyone updated their stock alternator to the BNR 95 amp high output alternator. I talked to them and they said it has an internal regulator and all I would have to do is to cut one wire to do the upgrade. If anyone has done this upgrade have, you kept your old voltage regulator? What are the pros and cons? Thank you for your time.
  25. Hello FAQ, I've got a troubled charging system that's in worse shape than usual today. There's a history that I can expand on if it's helpful, but my main concern is: How likely is it that a new (remanufactured) alternator has an internal short? And could hooking this up have damaged any other parts of the electrical system? The fuses were fine and there were no melted wires I could find. And alternately, can a wiring harness in generally bad shape somehow cause a short in a newly installed alternator? Thanks!
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