'76mintgrün'02

I did the same thing to mine, but I don't have cup holders. I also did the back side of the four plastic hinge covers. They still l@@k kind of cheap, but at least they no longer sound that way when you touch them. Plus, the back side of the space bar as well as my computer's mouse. Ironically, I used very little of it on my car's floor pan. Just circles cut to fit over the 'drain hole covers' and patches stuck to the firewall. I enjoy listening to the sounds the car makes... except for the wind noise.

But, does it have juice? It sure sounds like a dead battery. Do you have a volt meter to check the battery voltage and see what the alternator is putting out? If not, I'd buy this one. (It comes with a free variable advance timing light, a dwell meter and a tachometer built in). Innova 5568 Innova Pro Timing Lights | Summit Racing WWW.SUMMITRACING.COM Free Shipping - Innova Pro Timing Lights with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Timing Lights at Summit Racing.

I wouldn't be as concerned about the sand as the leaded paint being blown everywhere. That's a nasty mess that ought to be contained. Here's some info on the topic. Legal stuff about blasting in PA-- https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2017-08/documents/36_6pgs.pdf Lead in auto paint-- https://www.dcceew.gov.au/environment/protection/chemicals-management/lead/lead-in-auto-paints From that link-- Lead pigments Lead colouring agents have been used for many years in auto enamels and lacquers. The highest levels of lead are found in the orange, red and yellow tones, where concentrations of more than 20% are common. The pigments used in these highly coloured paints are based on lead sulphochromate and molybdate lead chromate. They are opaque and can be ground into fine particles, making them ideal for the high-gloss paints used on cars. They are also durable and resistant to ultra-violet light. For older cars, the refinish industry can only provide accurate colour matches to vehicles that currently have paint containing lead on them by using the same lead-based pigments. If you are using these products you should be careful when sanding-down old paints and when spraying with new ones. Some older cars may also contain lead auto-body filler. Lower concentrations of lead are present in the grüns, browns and beiges. Vintage car enthusiasts and amateur car restorers who strip and paint cars in their own garages or backyards could be unwittingly creating health risks for themselves, their families, neighbors and pets.

we only got one horn (I installed two horns from an e21 at the junk yard)

Is this one of the holes? I almost got a shot of the front one. (dug this old photo up from a post I made when I removed the air pump mount)

Yes, if you have rubber bushings you'll need to tighten them with weight on the wheels, plus the typical load, as per the Blue Book. If you're using polyurethane bushings, you can torque them anytime, since they pivot on the sleeves like a hinge; they don't get stressed like rubber, which is fused to the sleeve. If you do have rubber, I'd loosen and retorque them per the Book, since you're making big changes to the suspension.

That's a pretty one. I don't recognize it, but @7502 might. Welcome to the PNW. I'm a bit south of Bellingham on the Kitsap Peninsula. Tom

I think it's the little ANSA cylindrical "Sport mufflers" that are loud. The RA stuff should sound like OEM, more or less. I've read that the exhaust might drone without the resonator and it's an added bonus that it comes with the pipe that runs up over the axle. It's not a straight swap between center and side exit mufflers, due to hanger placement. There is extra work involved when fitting a center exit muffler in a '74 or earlier car. I learned this while putting a side exit muffler in my '76.

It may be lens distortion, but the alternator looks out of alignment. If you haven't replaced the rubber isolators/bushings you might consider adding that to the list of fun stuff to do. Or, maybe they line up just fine. There is a small hole in the firewall to the left of the steering column, for the manual choke cable. It may have a rubber plug in it. I have wires running through that hole.

You're quick, Rick! It's still under a hundred bux for the muffler and another seventy for the resonator. As seen in the link I just posted. I think you're money ahead buying parts that already fit, rather than relying on the craftsmanship of a muffler guy. There are good ones out there, but I have had bad experiences too. Making multiple trips so they can make things right is not fun.

Straight pipe will probably be the cheapest! I am a fan of the fit and sound of the original exhaust system and this ANSA stuff from Rock Auto comes pretty close. You could save some money by hanging it yourself, if you add the rubber hangers and stuff to your order. Here are some photos of their parts/pieces and a link to the catalog page below them. 1976 BMW 2002 2.0L L4 Pipe / Resonator | RockAuto WWW.ROCKAUTO.COM RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog. I like the stock exhaust so much I put a friend's used system in my 1984 Subaru. I have another friend's used 2002 exhaust in my car now.

Just to clarify, I wasn't nagging. I was bragging. I was sooooooooo happy to find that thread. I'm not sure how long it would take me to find it again. I do remember who had the answer though, so I could use the "+more search options" feature and type him into the "search by author" selection. I think searching is fun. So is answering questions though... so, fire away! It didn't occur to me to use "boot" while searching. Glad you got in!

Here is a quote from the link I shared above. "I used Wurth and it was fine. But as Bibm5 said, a good 3M type product from any discount store will save you money...also get a nice semi stuff paint brush, or actually a few of them, to get glue up inside the crack of the seal and to neatly place it on the metal . It can get messy if you try to move too fast and are not careful "

I had rust repair work to do to the front of my pans, so I cut off what was left of those pins and then welded on homemade tabs to replace the rusty pins on the floor. I'm a fan of the original fiber board/tar/foam sound proofing. The self adhesive stuff is vibration dampening, whereas the fiber board pieces absorb/block sound. I gave mine a coat of varnish the last time they were out of the car.

Based on the photo Jim posted in the link I shared, your coupler is not out 180 degrees. It is installed like his, to make use of a switch (that's been removed).

Pierce manifolds has awesome exploded views and list all of the parts. Looking at the 38-38, both jets (#34) are the same size (small). 38 DGES WWW.PIERCEMANIFOLDS.COM Weber carburetor,Intake Manifolds, Conversion Kits, Air Filters, Linkages,Everything you need for your new or vintage ride!

That's my guess, but I've never owned one. That being the case, maybe I should have let someone else answer. You can buy a jet holder for the 32-36 that replaces the cut-off solenoid and that holder uses the larger jet (like the solenoid). The diameter of the threaded portion of the solenoid is larger than the standard jet holder, so you cannot just use a small jet if you delete the solenoid. ((Mike Self has a rare and special cut off solenoid that takes the small jets, but it's the only one I've ever heard of)). That should explain the two sizes in a 32-36. It's different than the 38-38. Matching small jets makes sense to me, but as I mentioned to Jim, I'm only guessing and sharing what I know about my carb.

The 32-36 uses a small jet on the secondary side and a large one on the primary IF it has an idle cut off solenoid. (on the primary side) Otherwise, they're both the small style. The 38-38 doesn't use a cut off solenoid. It'd need two, if it did. So the jets should be small, assuming I am understanding your question.

I've had that happen twice, due to the little tab at the end of the tumbler coming off. I felt REALLY dumb the second time. I need to drill that thing and add a little set screw to keep it from happening again. I'm not locking it again until I do that. I searched the archives and found an old thread where someone knew a secret to getting into the trunk, but wouldn't share it in the thread because it works so well. He didn't want any bad-guys making the special trunk picking tool and then stealing our stuff! I'll follow his lead and share the secret via private messaging if you'll send me one. Tom P.S. A lock smith would not be able to open it, if you have the same problem I had.

I'm not sure what you mean by "seal material" but you need to install the real-deal rubber-seal for the trunk lid. If you search the forum archives, you'll see a lot of photos of clothes pins holding the seal in place while the adhesive sets. You could also add a stainless steel exhaust tip, to get it out a little farther from the car.

Are the holes in this piece perpendicular to each other, or at ninety degrees to each other; or are they offset one way or another? I'm not sure how to word my question, exactly, but I wonder if that piece could be rotated 180 degrees on the pin and it'd tip the shift lever the other way. Assuming they're not perpendicular, or whatever. Does that make sense? see this post It looks like the rubber in your mounting blocks might be shot. Or, it could just be a bit of grime I'm seeing. The rubber was gooey in mine. Nice photos.

Sorry for suggesting you could flip the early style. I read two people suggesting you could flip them around in that thread I linked, but then I went back and read further down and saw where Andy corrected them... so, I stand corrected too.

That's usually due to the shift lever being installed 180 degrees out. The bend in the shaft should point the lever back at you, not away. I dug up a couple of old threads where that was the issue. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/236803-shifter-position-adjustment/#comments

I agree with Buckeye. Make the bushing smaller, so it fits the hole. Someone wasn't paying attention when they selected that bushing. It is too big. You could also put a slight chamfer on the edge of the hole, so it doesn't dig into the bushing.

Which tires are cheaper in that size than 185/70-13? Or, is it that a certain tire is available in that size and not 185/70-13? I don't hate, but I don't understand what you're saying. Could you please post examples? I put KUMHO SOLUS TA11 tires on my car last summer. The price was reasonable and they seem just fine. It's a daily-driver, not a race-car, or a show-car. I suppose it's an economy-car.