'76mintgrün'02

Okay, I'm still confyoozed. Saying "one side" and "the other" had me thinking right spring and left spring, as in you have an orange spring on one side and a red spring on the other. I just reread your first post and now I am thinking each of your rear springs has an orange stripe on one side and a red stripe on the other. It's not a mixed pair, just an odd color combination. Is that what you're saying?

They both look red to me, Jim!

The search function only gives one hit for [rear spring orange paint], but I was glad to find any mention of stock springs with an orange stripe, since that color isn't listed on c.d.'s page. As for why they'd mismatch them at the factory, all I can think of is that it's possible the installer was color blind. Googling gave me this-- Do colorblind people see red as orange? Another task that can be frustrating is driving a car when color blind; for the color blind person, green light tends to look very pale green or nearly white, and red light may seem closer to orange. Tom

This is only true if you are using rubber bushings. The suspension needs to be in an "at rest" position, with the weight of the vehicle (plus a 'typical load' - which is prescribed in the BMW service manual) because the inner sleeve is fused to the rubber. You can tighten the suspension bolts with everything dangling if you're using polyurethane bushings, because they pivot on the sleeves like a hinge. Original springs have (had) brushed on paint stripes that can be used to differentiate between front and rear. c.d.iesel Solex 112 12,172 posts Posted September 14, 2012 · Report post what I contributed many moons a go : stock / oem 02 suspension coil spring colour codes and free length (not mounted length); REAR SUSP SPRINGS Green 776-803 lbs White 750-776 lbs Red 725-750 lbs wire thickness 12.3mm (.049")free length unmounted 334.6 (13.17") Heavy duty conversion ( for trailer towing ) grey/green 769-789 lbs grey/white 730-769 lbs grey/red 710-730 lbs wire thickness 13.2mm (.052") free length of unmounted 324.2mm (12.76") FOR touring - USE ONLY RED (in emergency WHITE is permissable always use "1 Dot " rubber top cushion FRONT SUSP SPRINGS green/blue 635-656 lbs white/blue 614-636 lbs red/blue 595-614 lbs wire thickness 11.8mm (0.465") free length unmounted 337.2mm (13.28") Heavy duty conversion (only if rear is also converted) green/grey/green 606/626 lbs white/grey/white 584-606 lbs red/grey/red 564-584 lbs wire thickness 12mm (0.47") free length unmounted 345mm (13.58") ..........SO, AS YOU CAN SEE , WHEN INSPECTING UNKNOWN SPRINGS, THE FREE LENGTH CAN BE CLOSE, BUT IT'S THE WIRE THICKNESS THAT YOU NEED TO MEASURE CAREFULLY THIS REF. FROM BMW REPAIR MANUAL (PRINTED) VOL.2 and. . . .. rear coil spring upper rubber 'damper ring' comes in 3 heights: 28 mm height = 1 dot and green color code 33 mm height = 2 dot and white color code 37 mm height = 3 dot and red color code Note: always fit top spring damper with 1 dot for Touring models (of course for orig springs) check availability with dealer, one was NLA reciently. the bottom rear coil spring rubber damper ring comes only in one thickness = 24mm ref. 33-0/8 specifations BMW Repair Manual Vol. 2 AND........ SPRING TIME TECHNICAL DATA: Message Title: Re: front or back? 10 1/4 " = Front 12 " = Rear these are my 'old' Suspension Technique (dark GOLD painted) springs measured "free" un-mounted length and from factory manual: 13.28" = Front std 13.58" = Front Heavy Duty 13.17" Rear std. 14.25" Rear for Baur Convertible ...so according to this info, you could have shorter or longer springs in the rear than front ! What matters is wire diameter and lb. rating / spring load rating.

I understand that. But, a left handed drill bit might pull it out of the front of the hole. I was just telling a story.

Not me. I've tried similar tools and they just spun out. I was drilling a screw out recently and the bit grabbed it and spun it out the back of the hole. That was a pleasant surprise. I was expecting to have to dig the old screw's threads out of the hole after drilling. The 3/16" drill bit I posted above is smaller-enough that it wouldn't need to be perfectly aligned, to keep from buggering the threads in the aluminum. It seems like a threaded insert would work, if the threads do get damaged. (A Timesert, not a Helicoil). I made an insert out of a bolt once. I think that one was 12mm to 10mm.

The original post said there was spark when the plugs were grounded to the strut tower, but didn't mention whether they sparked if grounded to the engine. might be onto something.

This left hand drill bit with a hex shank could be used in an impact driver. The shock of the impact might help back it out as it's drilled. KnKut 3/16" Fractional 1/4" Hex Shank Impact Drill Bit KNKUT.COM DIAMETER (INCHES) 3/16" DECIMAL EQUIVELENT 0.1875 FLUTE LENGTH (INCHES) 1-7/8" OVERALL LENGTH (INCHES) 3-3/4" KnKut mechanics length 1/4" hex shank quick release drill bits are made of a special molybdenum tool steel and the body and clearance are gold... You have to push in pretty hard to engage the impact mode while drilling. If you were to remove it... Is the stud screwed into a blind hole, or did they drill it all the way through? If it's a through hole, you might try drilling it out from the back side, since the remaining hole will act as a drill guide to help you center it and the bit will be trying to spin the stud out the front as cuts. (regular right hand bit)

ditto I keep this 10/13mm wrench behind the relays. It's held in place with a little magnet. The 10mm side fits the positive cable clamp and the 13mm fits the negative.

I'll add this to your list. I keep mine under the driver's seat, so I never leave home without it! (The Innova 5568 has variable advance, a volt meter, a dwell meter and a tachometer).

I don't think the amount of fuel will be the issue. Weber carbs prefer low fuel pressure in the 2-4 psi range, so you could test the two pumps and choose that way. Another consideration has to do with whether they clear the coolant hose that runs underneath them. Clearance is good. (The stubby Pierberg replacement pump presses down on that hose). Keep the fuel diverter installed. It is often disposed of as part of the emissions package. Mine had been removed by the P.O., so I use a Jeep fuel filter in its place; to allow pressure to bleed off after the engine is shut down. Searching "Jeep filter" will bring up many discussions on the topic, if you don't have a working diverter. I installed a little piece of the plastic fuel line that runs through the cabin on the outlet nipple to size it up to match the OD of the carb inlet. (You can do the same thing to the tank sender outlet nipple if the original is cracked or missing). Your '70 fuel pump is missing the two nylon spacers that go under the nuts/washers (as seen in my photo). I'd order a pair of those. The part number can be pulled off of the RealOEM site. Tom

Amazon = yuck, but it is being sold by Pierce Manifolds and I do like that company. I'm content with my water choke. I'm sure I'd be happy with an electric choke, if that's what'd come on my carburetor. If I could choose between the three, I'd take a manual choke, but I'd like it to come from the factory that way, as opposed to using one of the conversion kits. I'd consider putting an electric choke on if I was installing one, but it doesn't seem worth the hassle to convert mine. I say that because of what Toby said here-- +1 for electric, as water temperature exiting the head's always lagging combustion chamber temperature, so the choke stays on too long. Not a big deal if you drive 3 blocks and then get on the highway, but crappy for driving in town. UNLESS you do lots of errand- running, where the electric resets, but the water doesn't. Vs. the 'timer with ambient temperature compensation' effect that the electric choke has, which at least can be adjusted to pull the initial choke at about the right time. taken from here-- Tom I'm not sure whether you'll find choke coolant hoses in blue, to match your incoming sillycone set. The preference question has been addressed many times. Here are 470 hits on my search, many of which discuss what's involved in the conversion to electric. (Something to do while you wait for others to chime in). https://www.bmw2002faq.com/search/?&q=water choke electric&type=forums_topic&quick=1&nodes=8&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy

No wonder nobody guessed the answer. There are supposed to be 10 x 25mm studs in the manifold and the downpipe's typically connected with top-lock flange-nuts. (Part # 18301737774 ). (3 of them) If you do use bolts, you might want to use longer ones, to make use of all the threads in the manifold. No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Hex nut M8 SW12 8 11621744323 $0.85 02 Gasket Asbestos Free 4 01/1968 07/1976 11621723878 $16.89 ENDED 02 Gasket Asbestos Free 4 01/1968 07/1976 11621723839 03 Screw plug M24X1,5 1 02/1968 07/1976 07119919031 $3.51 04 Screw plug M10X1 1 02/1968 07/1976 07119919112 $1.17 ENDED 04 Screw plug M10X1-ST-ZNS3 1 02/1968 07/1976 07119904393 $1.89 07 Stud bolt M10X25 3 07119909117 $1.52 08 Protective COVER 1 09/1963 07/1977 11631252146 $110.70 09 Hex bolt with washer M6X10-Z1 4 07119915057 $3.05 10 Wave washer B6 4 07119932072 $0.09 ENDED 11 Washer 6,4 4 07/1977 07119931044 $0.58 ENDED 11 Washer A6,4-ZNS 4 07/1977 07119931018 $0.40 ENDED 11 Washer A6,4-ZNNIV SI 4 07119904202 No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Exhaust pipe front 1 09/1975 07/1976 18111104684 $187.42 02 Gasket Asbestos Free 1 18111245500 $5.19 03 Hex nut M10 1 18301737774 $1.65 04 Bow 1 18211245517 $2.97 05 Gasket ring 47MM 1 09/1975 07/1976 18111175311 $8.37 06 Front muffler TII 1 09/1975 07/1976 18121245265 $179.17 07 Hex nut M8 SW12 6 11621744323 $0.85 08 Hex bolt M8X35 3 09/1975 07/1976 07119913676 $0.36 09 Heat resistant plate 1 07/1974 07/1976 18211245525 ENDED 10 Bow 1 18211245834 $10.22 12 Base 2 09/1975 07/1976 18214490157 $3.18 13 Rubber Ring 2 09/1975 07/1976 18211105638 $4.23 ENDED 13 Rubber Ring 2 09/1975 07/1976 18211105635 $4.83 14 Rear muffler USA 1 18121245523 $217.68 15 Clamp 1 18111245775 $7.86 16 Hex bolt M8X45-8.8-ZNS3 1 07119902955 $0.62

The kit in that image is the BMW offering, which is out of stock at Roger's Tii. They only have the Rein "kit" in stock and it does not include the lid. BMW 2002 CV Joint Boot Repair Kit - rogerstii WWW.ROGERSTII.COM BMW 2002 320i CV Boot Repair Kit This is the Rein kit for $17. (the BMW kit was $61).

Could you share a photo or two?

I stuck some BBs on the magnetic ring once, to get a look at magnet placement; but I did not try to take any measurements to see if they were offset by 90 degrees. I'm not sure that'd be accurate enough anyway. One thought I just had (which might be a dumb one) was that you could check the timing on cylinder number one (using your innova 5568 variable advance timing light) and then remove the magnetic ring, rotate it 90 degrees and reinstall. Then, recheck timing and repeat three more times. If the magnets are accurately placed inside the ring, you should get the same advance reading all four times. In theory....

Welcome! Please let us know what you learn. My gear/shaft moved again, after the repair shared above, so I added a little brass spacer underneath the gear to keep it in position. So far, so good. Tom

Yes. Edit-- although, the fact that it is burnt and the others are not, might imply that that one got hotter at some point.

Wheel bearing adjustment-- From the "blue book" Section 31 20 004, page 31-20/1 While constantly turning the wheel nub, tighten castellated nut to a torque of 22 to 24 ft*lbs. When this torque has been reached, the taper rollers and inner bearing races will be in position correctly. This also ensures that any grease which would cause undesired play is pressed out. After tightening, give the complete bearing assembly at least another 2 turns without either loosening or further tightening of the castellated nut. Loosen castellated nut until bearing endplay is detected, and hub rotates with nut. Then, tighten castellated nut to max 2.2 ft*lbs, slacken to nearest hole and secure with split pin. Slotted washer should move easily, without noticeable resistance. From "T" (back in 2008) Standard 2002- I leave mine loose enough that there's the slightest of 'clicks' when you rock the wheel top- to- bottom. No movement- too tight. 'CLunK'- too loose. The tii seems to like just a bit tighter- right at 'no click'. fwiw. t

Community Notes : Using an AFR gauge is a very effective way to sort the jets. In my case, the c.d. jetting combination with a slightly larger primary air-corrector consistently yields 22-25 mpg. YMMV.

I uses a rope and a stick

I've been using VR-1 because it's got some zinc and it's easy to come by. I was relieved to find that they went back to a proper lid when I bought the last jug. Those over-engineered two-part pour-spout lids were stoopid.

The #5 cam is a 264? @kbmb02 measured one and shared the specs in this thread. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/68291-camshafts-thru-the-years/?do=findComment&comment=1433879 This quote was taken from that post. "Measured at the cam: #2 factory camshaft 0.275" lift on the intake, 0.275 on the exhaust, 60 degree lobe spread #5 factory camshaft 0.294" lift on the intake, 0.275 on the exhaust, 62 degree lobe spread (Given the intake is a different profile, I doubt the intake duration is the same as a #2.)"

Well, crap. I am trying to upload this photo into an email and it is taking forever, which means that it's still effed up. But at least it works on the FAQ.

IT FIXED ITSELF! IT FIXED ITSELF!!! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. WHEW. Photos are uploading from my clipboard/computer and they're not hUge anymore.