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'76mintgrün'02

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Everything posted by '76mintgrün'02

  1. '76mintgrün'02
    You're welcome. I agree. The last comment at the end of the article contains a link that has clear photos without the PB watermark.
  2. '76mintgrün'02
    "Nobbs go up!" http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/billwill72tii/White%20car/suspension/Rearcarriesbushes4p_zps6edbbe10.jpg The text and photo above were taken from this article. edit-- photobucket (grrr) the photo shows at the end of the article.
  3. '76mintgrün'02
    I used Tri-Flow. It's got Teflon in it.
  4. '76mintgrün'02
    It's funny to read my post above, saying the motor was still squealing. It's been ten years and it's working fine.
  5. '76mintgrün'02
    This is from the 123 site. Epoxy Coil 3.0 ohm epoxy coil for 4 cyl - 123Ignitionusa, LLC 123IGNITIONUSA.COM Your US Distributor of electronic ignition distributors for classic cars 123ignition
  6. '76mintgrün'02
    Hopefully, you have a variable advance timing light, such as the Innova 5568 (my personal favorite = money well spent)
  7. '76mintgrün'02
    Sometimes shock helps. You could try putting a socket over the shaft, with it resting on the pulley and smack it with a hammer a couple of times. It doesn't have to be a big hammer. (I keep crappy sockets around for stuff like this).
  8. '76mintgrün'02
    He is and the intake manifold does appear to be thicker/taller than the flange on the divider. If I had that problem, I'd be tempted to make a custom 'washer' that has a step on the back side to make up for that difference. It also looks like the front hose closest to the camera is 'pooched up' behind the clamp's screw mechanism and it's blowing coolant/bubbles. The screw mechanism has an arc built into the back, which is supposed to match the diameter of what it is clamping. Large hose clamps have a larger diameter on the back of the mechanism, so they will not mate up well with smaller hoses/flanges. Based on the amount of extra clamp band sticking out, that may be your problem. I would replace both of those clamps with smaller ones that are close to the OD of the hose while in their largest position. You are also missing the two nylon stepped 'washers' that go under the nuts that secure the fuel pump. The holes through the pump are sloppy around the studs without those little plastic isolators. It has nothing to do with your leaking coolant, but is worth addressing. You can pull the part numbers off of the RealOEM site.
  9. '76mintgrün'02
    Those look like the all-plastic lights that were discussed in this thread.
  10. '76mintgrün'02
    I don't remember that detail. Sorry. I just tried searching the site to see if I could find a photo I posted that shows the part number on a spring, but didn't have any luck. If you'll post the numbers on yours, I'll peek under the car to compare them to mine. Tom
  11. '76mintgrün'02
    The play I mentioned above is more like 1/4".
  12. '76mintgrün'02
    Front pads are simply thin rubber fitted-sheets between springs and caps/seats. (The bottoms wear out faster due to dirt). H&R springs tend to make the car sit low in the rear, compared to the front, so the thicker 3 dot pads might be required to have it sit level, when measured at the rocker panel. It actually wants to be slightly higher in the rear. (I added homemade spacers on top of the 3 dot pads, to raise the rear a little higher yet). My front springs are loose when it is jacked up, with the suspension dangling. That's why some people like to drill the cap and wire the spring in place. I haven't bothered to do that. I just make sure things are lined up before setting it back down.
  13. '76mintgrün'02
    I'd post a want-to-buy ad for a good used one, or possibly a pair of them, depending on price. There should be plenty of them out there. They're tiny, so shipping will be inexpensive. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/forum/18-parts-wanted/
  14. '76mintgrün'02
    The fuel diverter valve is often removed with the emissions stuff, but it is a useful piece of equipment. It will allow the fuel pressure to bleed back to the tank when the engine is shut off. A previous owner removed it from my car, so I use a two-outlet Jeep fuel filter in its place. There are a lot of posts about that option in the archives. A search of {jeep filter} will bring them up.
  15. '76mintgrün'02
    Welcome to the forum. That is a common problem. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/search/?q=wipers won't park&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=8
  16. '76mintgrün'02
    I'm thinking that might actually be possible with the late-style advance mechanism, like the one in Tom's 002 Bosch distributor. The little 'foot' behind the weight's pivot point is what pushes on the center post's lobes to bring in advance and the shape of the foot could be shortened at the tip, to allow the center post to come back, as the weights finish swinging out. The modification is shown by the little blue line below. That weight is sitting on a little grinding fixture that was used to true up the worn face. In theory, something similar could be used to alter the shape of the tip(s); making the advance drop at the end of the swing. Before. After. Here are photos of the center post, showing where the weights do their pushing (advancing). This fixture was used to true up the worn down surfaces. It'd be a little trickier than tooning a one two three; but reducing advance at the end might just be possible, mechanically. Tom
  17. '76mintgrün'02
    While you have the distributor out, you can measure the axial play in the shaft, by inserting feeler gauges between the gear/washer(s) and the body. There needs to be very little play there, or the timing will fluctuate. This has nothing to do with your non-sparking situation; it is just an opportunity to learn something about the condition of your distributor while you have it in your hand.
  18. '76mintgrün'02
    I just checked Blunttech and noticed that they are no longer available.
  19. '76mintgrün'02
    I think the one on top is what would have come on your '76. That's the style on mine. Can you still buy that style new?
  20. '76mintgrün'02
    Santa has not been answering the phone or responding to my emails.
  21. '76mintgrün'02
    There is also a valve inside the pump that may not be holding suction, as discussed on page three of this thread.
  22. '76mintgrün'02
    The date reflects when the photo was shared, but not necessarily when it was taken. I'll bet that is an old photo.
  23. '76mintgrün'02
    Yes, it could be the plug wires. Kingsborne sells nice sets. Mine still seem to be doing well after ten years of use. (They don't have the rubber booties at the plug end).
  24. '76mintgrün'02
    Nice work, removing the tar mats. That's a nasty job, but now you know exactly what you're dealing with. I'd suggest removing the floor plugs to get at the rust in the seams and putting them back in after painting them/the floor. (there was some rust under the rear seat bulkhead, so I took that out). I used a tube of auto body 'caulk' when I put the plugs back. (the red tube) I put it between the pieces, before twisting them into place (after I tapped the tabs back into shape, so they would pull them in tight). I also put circles of the new sound dampener over the plugs. The pieces of 1/8" thick wire they used to hold the insulation pads in place were rusted/weak/broken, so I ground those off and made new tabs out of sheet metal, then tack-welded those to the floor. You can also see the patch panels I hammered out/welded in where the pan was rusty. My puddle box needed patching too.
  25. '76mintgrün'02
    Happy New Year?
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