'76mintgrün'02

It is a Tii, so changing cams is a no-no.

It might help to loosen the transmission mount prior to lifting the engine. The limiting strap gap is important, to keep the fan from kissing the radiator.

Those size fifteen shoes must be heavy! Don't blame the carb. I use the same c.d. prescription, but it ran too rich, so I stepped up two sizes on the primary air corrector and am content with it now; based on the AFR gauge and how it performs. I also modified the link that brings in the secondary, to make it come in sooner; because it was running too lean at higher rpms before it made the transition. The link is adjustable so I can dial it in to where I like it. Here's a link to the link thread. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/286850-weber-32-36-adjustable-secondary-linkage/ I'm a fan of the 32-36. It was on the car when I bought it. I don't mean to sound competitive, but I'll bet I could out frugal you. Tom

Are they (were they) really $8 each? Vintage VW emblems use the same grommets. They're still $4 each, but these guys say that they're in stock. https://www.jbugs.com/product/113853695-3.html

I'm guessing you could have improved the jetting and an AFR gauge would only cost you the equivalent of (roughly) four tanks of ga$oline! Even my (heavier) '76 gets 22-25mpg with a 32-36. Ethanol-free gasoline (87 octane) is about $5.50/gallon around here. Tom

Yup! I can hear the fuel starting to get sucked through the transition holes as I turn the speed screw in past ~2 turns after contact. As tzei mentioned, worn throttle shaft bushings could be letting air in, exacerbating a lean idle problem. The bushings were worn on my carb, so I replaced them with ball bearings on the idle side shaft. The secondary side was fine, so I left it alone. The original plastic bushings are $3 each and easy to replace, but you do have to remove the plates to get the shaft(s) out and the little screws are staked in; so you need to grind down the end sticking out before turning them out and use loc-tite when putting new screws in. Weber carburetor Authentic Weber Carbs, Manifolds, Conversion Kits! WWW.PIERCEMANIFOLDS.COM If you want new screws, they're available too, for $1.50 each. I think I just reused mine. Weber carburetor Authentic Weber Carbs, Manifolds, Conversion Kits! WWW.PIERCEMANIFOLDS.COM

And it is not just about the idle speed, but also the throttle plate position. You could still have a low idle, but have the lever turned too far, bringing in fuel from the transition holes. This might be the case due to an idle jet that is too small, or not enough ignition advance.

I am also curious about how you're setting the timing. The two people I talked to with rebuilt distributors said they were told to set the timing at idle, not with the BB at xxxx rpm. Ignition or fuel? Most likely, both. Tom

Mine is a 60. I think 45 is too small. How many turns in on the idle speed screw after it makes contact with the tab? That is one way to determine what size jet to use. Going past two or so turns causes problems. My friend's rebuilt distributor had issues with very few miles on it. Have you oiled the center post? Tried the twist and release the rotor test? Thank you for the added information, Mike. Tom

I am having trouble uploading photos to the site and to emails. For some reason, they're HUGE when I upload them. I emailed the following photo, which is 2.36 mb and it was received as 34.9 mb. Here, I see that it is 25.9 mb. I'm finding it crippling, not being able to share photos and am hoping maybe there's something telling in the package I'm sending that might indicate what the problem is. Do you see anything strange at your end, @steve k.? I fixed my chop saw, but am clueless when it comes to fixing computers! Tom

Well, I just came across an old post you made, Mike. I should have known you'd been inside a distributor! Don't know if they're still available, but I found the proper Bosch bronze shaft bushings when I rebuilt the dizzy on my '69 some years ago. Made a puller from a long bolt and some washers with flats ground on 'em to remove the old bushings, and pressed the new ones in using my bench vice (crude but effective). Since aircooled Beetles and Porsches used similar Bosch distributors, I suspect the shaft bushings are the same, and thus may be available through VW or Porsche parts specialists. You should also be able to get a new point plate for your distributor from Bosch or BMW; that will also help take play out of your dizzy mechanism. cheers mike

Turning the idle speed screw too far in will have the same effect on the idle mixture screw. An idle jet that is too small or too little advance at idle can lead to turning the speed screw in past two turns and that will start pulling fuel in from above the idle circuit. The early style distributors (pre '75) have some delicate pieces inside. The springs are tiny and they rub against lobes on the underside of the center post, which wears that side of the springs flat, making them weaker. There are tiny wire clips holding the springs on their posts and those wear thin too and can break as a result. There is a thin pad underneath the weights so they will slide easily as they rotate in and out and that piece was left out of the two 'rebuilt' distributors I've been inside of. The two weight post clips were reused on at least one of those and one had come off, causing problems which inspired the investigation. The springs were also stretched when at rest in that one, (leaving gaps between the coils) which will cause them to wear faster too. All that to say, rebuilt does not mean like-new. Those springs are tiny and it is very common for the center post to get hung up and not return to 'zero.' You can test that to some extent, by rotating the center post and seeing if it snaps back to the same position. The center post needs oil dripped down inside it every so often to keep it moving freely. (Take the felt plug out to oil it). You can also witness how much total advance the distributor is giving if you put a pointer on the post and fit a protractor over the body. Of course, you double those degrees to get crank advance numbers. EDIT- simply hold the gear so it cannot spin and rotate the post until it stops. That will show your total advance. Some rebuilt distributors use the original style pin to hold the gear on and that needs to be drilled 'out' to disassemble it. Others have a roll pin, which makes it easier to work on them. Hopefully you have the latter, but drilling isn't hard and you can reassemble it with a 5/32" x 3/4" roll pin from the hardware store. I think it is worthwhile and fun to go through that process. (Distributors require maintenance). A variable advance timing light (such as the INNOVA 5568!) will allow you to witness how the distributor is behaving; but you know that already. Tom

Like Mike, I cut the manifold to match the base of my beloved 32-36 and did it without removing the manifold. I used an air powered die grinder with a 1/4" shank burr. Those little grinders are wonderful tools and there are a ton of cheap ones to choose from; but they eat a lot of air, so you need a hefty compressor. There's quite a bit of material to remove to make a smooth transition and it'd take a while using a Dremel. I think it might go faster with a larger bit chucked up in a hand drill. I stuffed rags in the manifold and vacuumed it out before and after pulling them out. It is worth the tiny bit of effort to jack the front end up in the air, to save your back. I also recommend using a large piece of cardboard to cover the engine, with a hole cut in the middle to fit the top of the manifold. That'll make it much easier to clean up the mess.

@Einspritz once wrote that the rear is supposed to be 3/4" higher than the front. Not level. I believe the measurements are taken at the front and back of the sill (rocker). Hopefully he'll chime in. Especially if I am remembering incorrectly. Tom

Do they lend out variable-advance timing lights?

Does this require a special tool?

I scrolled down to the parts list below the diagram and clicked on the blue text for part #41.

Did you look at the exploded view of the carb on Pierce Manifolds' site? Is it #41, the choke shaft end that broke? CHOKE SHAFT<br><font color="red">10085.033</font> WWW.PIERCEMANIFOLDS.COM CHOKE SHAFT 10085.033

I'll bet they're parking close to the sign to protect the nose, since it is missing the front bumper. They may need a new window regulator on the passenger's side.

The upper pads come in three thicknesses denoted by dots. One dot being the thinnest. I have three dot pads in mine, plus half inch thick spacers on top of those. Shims/spacers go on the top; above the rubber pads. The difference in ride height at the fender will be about twice the thickness of the spacer.

Don't forget the nylon insulating bushings. 03 Insulating bushing 2 13310075752 $1.57

What's wrong with the one in the car?

Hi, Jason. Thanks for your interest and welcome to the forum. I sent you a message. Tom

Kingsborne wires come in black, red, yellow, or blue. They use Beru Bakelite ends and put numbers on the wires to keep us from getting confused.

Here's a visual comparison of the Ferry and Lynx manifolds from the top and a bottom view of the Lynx. I wonder if the Ferry manifold has the cylinders paired up in the same way. Tom