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About vairter

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  1. I'm working on doing a leakdown test to determine whether I have a blown head gasket leading to coolant loss. There seem to be at least 3 ways of setting the cylinder to TDC: (1) remove the valve cover and infer the valve positions from the lobes on the camshaft (2) put a screwdriver or coat hanger down the spark plug hole and watch the motion of the screwdriver to set TDC (3) buy a top dead center locator that threads into the spark plug hole and find TDC as the midpoint of the crank pulley positions for upstroke and downstroke contact with the locator How precise do you need to be in setting TDC for this purpose (i.e., making a leakdown measurement to confirm a blown head gasket) and do all 3 of these techniques accomplish this with adequate precision (newbie here) ? Also do you always see air bubbles in the radiator if the head gasket is compromised, so that it is a definitive determination?
  2. Can someone recommend a leak down tester that works well?
  3. My 1975 has been sitting around for the past couple of months. Before I started, I noticed the radiator reservoir tank was almost completely empty, much lower than it had been a couple of months ago. After I started the car, I got lots of white smoke: The car has had a noticeable issue with coolant level dropping for over a year, but I rationalized that this was due to trapped air being displaced from the last coolant change. A few months ago, I had removed the plugs to see if any of them had the "steam cleaned" appearance that has been described as a hallmark of a coolant leak. They didn't really show signs of that to my untrained eye, so I assumed everything was hunky dory: Pretty sure now that I'm going down the road of head gasket replacement or trying to find failures in the head or block. My first set (oh yeah, I know there will be more...) of questions are: (1) I've seen advice on prior threads to do a compression test or pressurize the radiator and then remove plugs to look for moisture as confirmation tests that there really is a coolant leak into the combustion chamber(s). But, really, with the white smoke and dramatic drop in coolant level, it seems unlikely to be something else. Is there additional diagnostic value in doing these tests to try to pin down the location of possible failures in the head or block? Or do the tests just remove the 1% of doubt that there is a coolant problem? Or maybe measuring compression before any gasket replacement to establish the problem and then seeing it fixed after a gasket replacement to confirm the fix is the point. Should I invest the time on more diagnostics? (2) Can you recommend a compression tester that works well on the 2002? (3) I won't be able to work on this for a month due to upcoming travel. Do I need to take pains to drive out any accumulated coolant from the cylinders to reduce the risk of rust? Is the best way to do this to leave the radiator cap off (to prevent pressurization) and run the car for a couple of minutes to burn off the coolant? (4) Is there any chance that tightening the head bolts to further compress the gasket might fix the problem? I have never checked how tight they are. (5) If I have to suck it up and replace the head gasket, is there a detailed written procedure on how to do this? (6) If I replace the head gasket, will this trigger a valve adjustment (another skill not currently in my bag of tricks)? Any other adjustments? (7) Are there different types/grades of head gaskets? Certain types to avoid? Best place to buy? Thanks for your thoughts, Terry
  4. Tom- Wow. You are an exemplar of the helpful spirit that makes this forum so great. Hand making me a replacement is way, way beyond the call of duty. By the time I saw your generous offer, I had already done a totally crappy job cutting a replacement out of leftover rubber gasket material lying around my garage. Way less professional than what you generated, but it fixed the problem. I now have a functional choke vacuum break for the first time in over a year. Oh what a feeling. Thanks again, Tom. You built good karma. Hold it for another lost soul... Terry
  5. Yes, the diaphragm is pretty much intact and is separate from the torn gasket. It seems odd that the separate (torn) gasket does not show up in any assembly diagrams. That is why I'm wondering if it is even necessary, or if the previous owner hand made one for some reason.
  6. Yes, the diaphragm is pretty much intact and is separate from the torn gasket. It seems odd that the separate (torn) gasket does not show up in any assembly diagrams. That is why I'm wondering if it is even necessary, or if the previous owner hand made one for some reason.
  7. I'm working on trying to get the vacuum pull off to work properly on my Weber 32/36 choke assembly. It has never properly opened the choke blade and I suspect a clog in the vacuum circuit. In the process of disassembly, I managed to tear the gasket that seals the choke cover to the rest of the housing. Is this gasket necessary and a standard part of the assembly? I have never seen it displayed in diagrams for the 32/36 at Carbs Unlimited or Pierce Manifolds and I haven't been able to find a source for it: http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGAVDiaginfo.asp https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/329.htm Or is the rubber termination of the choke diaphragm itself adequate to make the seal (it certainly has the same shape and outline as the torn gasket), so that I should forget about the gasket? Terry
  8. Choke pull off doesn't seem to be working. I have replaced the diaphragm/shaft unit, which hasn't fixed the problem. So I suspect that the carb passage that feeds vacuum to the unit is plugged. Has anyone had experience with this passage clogging come up with a way of opening it up? I think it is a small passage...
  9. No 2-tone Trabants sighted yet...
  10. Visiting Berlin. Parked right outside my Airbnb in Prenzlauer Berg district. Only one I’ve seen so far. Was 2-tone Inka an original color option in Europe?
  11. I ended up replacing the plastic/aluminum Nissens radiator with an all-metal NRF radiator. I'm just going to trash the old Nissens radiator, which seems like a shame. The online consensus is that they are not built to be repaired and not many shops have the expertise to repair them. Anyone interested in this old radiator (probably less than 5 years old) before I toss it in the trash and it ends up in a landfill? Terry
  12. OK, I'm going to wrap this one up. I had to give up on capping the threaded ports because there just isn't enough room below the radiator, although I did find some M18x1.5 acorn nuts that might have worked given enough room: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Banjo-Bolt-Cap-Nut-Metric-Thread-M18X1-5-M18-Fuel-Oil-Gas-Boat-L-AX-/201765011612 I'll have to take the risk that the radiator won't spring a leak through the open ports, but this is probably no more likely than springing a leak somewhere else in the radiator. And probably long after another plastic/aluminum POS radiator would fail. It drives again (without overheating!) and that's the bottom line.
  13. Well...these Komatsu caps did NOT work. They're meant for some hydraulic application and aren't solid M18x1.5 caps. Finding sealing caps should not be this difficult...

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