'76mintgrün'02

That joint was worn out on my car. I replaced the tube at the bottom of the shift lever and used bronze bushings in place of the original plastic ones. It was a fun project. I'd suggest removing the shifter assembly to clean it and inspect for wear, then order parts as needed. Assuming you're not needing to drive the car in the meantime. Tom

I'd recommend shopping at Blunttech.com, so you can joint the fun in this thread. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/334974-shoutout-to-blunttech/ The Blunt kit does not include the gear shift rod joint and they get sloppy, so add a joint/pin/foam insert to the list. The part numbers can be pulled off of this RealOem diagram. No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Set circlip 10 8,0 3 03/1974 07509064295 ENDED 01 Circlip 8,0 3 03/1974 07119932863 $0.11 02 Shim 16X10,2X0,65 2 03/1974 25111220199 $0.30 03 Gearshift rod joint 1 03/1974 25111205070 ENDED 03 Gearshift rod joint SCHWARZ 1 03/1974 25117503525 $37.51 only in conjunction with -- Straight selector rod L=151MM 1 03/1974 25111206888 $27.51 -- Shim 16X10,2X0,65 4 03/1974 25111220199 $0.30 -- Shift lever-lower part 1 03/1974 25111220213 $23.00 04 Dowel pin 1 03/1974 23411466134 $0.70 05 Tension bush 1 03/1974 25111203682 $1.18 06 Plastic washer 1 03/1974 25111434194 $0.85 07 Straight selector rod 1 03/1974 25111204357 $37.53 For vehicles with 5-speed sports gearbox =Yes 07 Straight selector rod 1 03/1974 25111204359 $92.48 08 Shifting arm 1 03/1974 25111203776 ENDED For vehicles with 5-speed sports gearbox =Yes 08 Shifting arm 1 03/1974 25111204147 $46.76 ENDED 09 Lock Ring 1 03/1974 23411466112 $0.68 10 Shift lever-lower part 1 03/1974 25111205870 $64.36 11 Shift lever-upper part 1 08/1973 07/1976 25111220778 $91.80 11 Shift lever-upper part 1 03/1974 25111220778 $91.80 12 Cap 1 03/1974 25111205441 $1.52 13 Circlip 10-ZNS3 1 03/1974 07119904911 $0.27 14 Rubber Ring 1 03/1974 23411666133 $1.77 15 Washer 14X25X2-ZNS3 1 03/1974 34301163613 $0.83 16 Spring washer 1 03/1974 23411666122 $1.75 17 Spacer sleeve 1 03/1974 23411200844 $2.27 18 Compression spring 1 03/1974 23411200845 $1.33 19 Ball Cup upper 2 03/1974 23411466110 $8.01 20 Washer X 03/1974 23411466125 $1.02 20 Washer X 03/1974 23411466126 $0.84 20 Washer X 03/1974 23411466127 $0.80 ENDED 21 Shift lever 1 08/1973 07/1976 25111204381 ENDED 21 Shift lever 1 03/1974 25111220214 ENDED Notes Here's part number six in the diagram. BluntTech Industries • PLASTIC WASHER WWW.BLUNTTECH.COM PLASTIC WASHER I'd also replace the shift rod seal while you're in there. BluntTech Industries • Man. Trans Shift Linkage Seal WWW.BLUNTTECH.COM shift shaft seal 1 per car RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog WWW.REALOEM.COM BMW parts 1502-2002tii 2002 Diagram Selection

That is the late style.

Blunttech.com will have all of them. Then, you can join the fun in this thread.

More discussion here

Nope. The unit is grounded through the two mounting screws. One of those wires is for the running light and the other is for the turn signal. Here's a thread that discusses the conversion.

Looks good from here. I had to lengthen the tail pipe on mine too. That eliminated the exhaust smell inside the cabin.

It's only new once! That said, it'll come back shinier than new. The '74 vac-retard tii was model 0231180013. Send one of these in with it. NLA60210201 Distributor Point Plate Sliding Surface for Advance Weights for all 356 and 912. 61660210201 WWW.STODDARD.COM Point Plate Sliding Surface for advance weights for all 356 and 912. The two rebuilt early-style distributors I've opened up were missing that piece.

Have you measured the resistance in the 123 rotor? (I assume they're a 5Kohm). That's what I'd do. Toss that artificial-intelligence-distributor and don't look back! Which model number is your analog distributor? What do you know about its history? How much axial play does it have? (feeler gauge between gear and body) How will you set the timing? Do you have a variable advance timing light? Will you use points/condenser or Pirtronicks? Will you post photos? Subscribed/followed/liked. Tom

Hi Pablo, I noticed you just clicked this emoji. What is it that you find confusing about my post above. I'd be happy to clarify, if I can. Tom

I read that there was a problem with the plastic rubbing blocks on Bosch points years ago, but was under the impression that it had been taken care of. I also ran them on old VWs and on my 2002 for the past 12 years. I think people tend to put new points in sooner than necessary, since it's easy to do and they're cheap enough; but I've used the same sets of points for years on end without ever having a problem with the rubbing block. I'm not trying to discredit your experience. Thank you for sharing your recommendation. Quality control does seem to have gone to sh!t on a lot of Bosch (and other) parts. It is possible to find new old stock on eBay, but that's not nearly as convenient as sourcing new parts that still maintain quality. I went to Rock Auto and dug up some images of the SMP points for the OP's '68 1600 and for my '76, just for fun. For the 1600, RA gives the Bosch distributor number along with the SMP points. GB4480P for distributor 0231116051 They list another distributor option for the '68 1600 (0231115045), but they don't have SMP points to fit. The points that would fit that one are out of stock. (I'm familiar with the 045 unit, but not the 051). Here are the SMP points that would fit my late model distributor. I see what you're saying about the sturdy design of the rubbing block and the contact surface looks taller too, which seems like a good thing. I tend to think of plastic parts as low quality, when compared to metal, but understand that's an irrational bias in some cases. The rubbing blocks on Bosch points I've used have either plastic or phenolic rubbing blocks. I've always preferred phenolic, (based on the bias mentioned above). When ordering points, I always look at the rubbing block in the image and go for the brown phenolic blocks, instead of the white plastic ones; but the last time I ordered some, I learned that Bosch is now making the plastic part brown, to mimic phenolic! I thought that was a dirty trick.

Could you please be more specific about the rubbing block problem?

While there is some overlap, there are also situations which require specific points, depending on the distributor model. Cars that are fifty + years old may not have the original distributor, so it's better to give the distributor model when asking for parts that will fit. This thread is half of a double-post that Fred made. Tom (Visionaut) gave a link to points which will fit the stock 1600 cast iron distributor in the other thread and it lists other makes that also make use of the same points. Ignition Points Set BMW 1600 2002 1968 Mercedes Benz – JT Outfitters WWW.JTOUTFITTERS.COM

How can he send it to you if he cannot get to it?

On their site, they recommend the Bosch blue coil for four cylinder engines and those have 3 ohms of resistance built in. Perhaps, you could use an external resistor to increase resistance and run the one you have. The ceramic resistors that came on pre-'74 cars might work. BMW part # 12131353362 @John76 just posted this drawing an hour ago, showing how to install an external resistor. What year is your car? If it's got rectangular tail lights, it might still have the resistor wire that fed the original coil. Or, simply switch brands and buy a coil with 1 ohm + resistance, as Furry suggests. I wouldn't go below one ohm, based on their recommendations.

A couple more photos. The second one is obviously from @John76 as well.

Based on John's photo above, the upper spring on yours should be moved to the lower/outer hole.

Oh yeah, I skimmed that thread and now see where jp5Touring said his key fit both the trunk and doors. According to this info from that thread, the door/ignition key shouldn't fit into the trunk cylinder, based on the end-profile; suggesting it is not as simple as filing some trunk lock wafers to match the door locks. This illustration is misleading though, because the ignition and door key are the same, not the door and trunk key. Details, details. Tom

Some people have had success removing wafers in the lock, to make it less fussy about which key is used. Originally, the door locks and ignition cylinder had a number, which tells a locksmith how to grind the keys to fit. You could dig into the door and steering column to see if the little stickers are still there. Here's a good thread I just searched-up that discusses making keys fit. Here are some more https://www.bmw2002faq.com/search/?q=lock removing wafers&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=8 Yes, the trunk key is different than the ignition/door key. I don't recall any threads about making one key do ignition/doors/trunk.

Just one more note, before this thread slips down the page, into the archives. On my engine, the clamp on the coolant hose where the water divider feeds the intake manifold had the screw mechanism on top and I moved it to the bottom, because it looks so much better. But, the old hose started leaking because the clamp had always been in that one spot and moving it broke the seal. So, I took the hose off of the nipple and found that the aluminum was corroded and caked with white crusty powder. I cleaned that crud off and the nipple had some pitting, so I put Permatex non-hardening sealant on the nipple before reattaching the old hose and it's been leak free ever since. All that to say, I like this sealant and I think it'd help prevent corrosion from happening, by keeping coolant from wicking into the joint. I also became a fan of BMW blue coolant when that leak happened, because it leaves a light blue chalky residue when it dries, which helps identify where the leak came from. Tom

There's also a smaller small nipple on some heads and the following thread discussed when/where they were used. Buckeye shares that information in this post.

Based on the RealOEM chart, the threads are M22x1.5 and the larger nipple is 22mm. The chart does not give any information for part number 7 in the diagram, which is the one Jim has. It's good that you don't need one of those. I wonder if they're NLA. That drawing is a little confusing, because part number 7 looks out of scale, compared to part number 3. Maybe they did that because it's closer to the viewer. Another odd thing is that they say part number 5, the reducer has inside threads that are M22x1.4, whereas the nipple's threads are M22x1.5. I'm guessing the 1.4 is a typo. You might as well add one of these to your shopping list. Gasket ring A22X27-AL 1 07119963355 Tom

Real OEM is an awesome resource. That is part number 11121250746 and based on the online images, it has the larger nipple. Search the part number online and choose your vendor. No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Valve Guide +0,10MM 8 11121266760 $11.54 SI 110288843 01 Valve Guide +0,20MM D=7,9MM 8 11121266761 $9.94 ENDED 01 Valve Guide 14,40MM(+0,2) 8 11121713407 ENDED 01 Valve Guide 14,40MM(+0,2) 8 11121713407 ENDED only in conjunction with -- Valve seal ring D=10,8MM 8 11341273501 $23.16 ENDED 01 Valve Guide +0,30MM 8 11121266762 ENDED, SI 110288843 01 Valve Guide 14,30MM(+0,1) 8 11121713406 ENDED only in conjunction with -- Valve seal ring D=10,8MM 8 11341273501 $23.16 ENDED 01 Valve Guide 14,30MM(+0,1) 8 11121713406 ENDED 02 Threaded plug M6 1 11121744337 $1.68 03 Connector M22X1,5/22MM 1 11121250746 $21.46 04 Gasket ring A22X27-AL 1 07119963355 $0.36 05 Reducer M22X1,4/M36X1,5 1 03/1971 07/1977 11121250745 $19.50 ENDED 06 Gasket ring A36X42-AL 1 03/1971 07/1977 07119963467 $0.62 ENDED Tom

Formula divide the pressure value by 2.036 225" Hg = 110.51 psi

Okay, I'm still confyoozed. Saying "one side" and "the other" had me thinking right spring and left spring, as in you have an orange spring on one side and a red spring on the other. I just reread your first post and now I am thinking each of your rear springs has an orange stripe on one side and a red stripe on the other. It's not a mixed pair, just an odd color combination. Is that what you're saying?