Jump to content

PaulTWinterton

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,801

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by PaulTWinterton

  1. PaulTWinterton
    Just a reminder that the seals are supposedly "one time use" crushable steel. I have had the problem with leaking fuel from the fitting due to an overly flattened seal. No amount of tightening (watch it) would stop the leaking. Now I keep a spare set.
  2. PaulTWinterton
    You just reminded me to remount a picture I have. 15ish years ago I attended my first bmw club event and won the door prize. Illustration print called "Turkis" by M. Aveyard. Looked up the artist on the internet and found nothing. It has been hanging on my wall all these years, but slightly askew inside the frame. Today I'm going to fix that.
  3. PaulTWinterton
    +1 on giant hose clamp.
  4. PaulTWinterton
    Does the SR440x bolt to the bracket, or is an adapter needed? Also, what alterations, if any, are needed for the wiring? Man, I really appreciate this knowledge. I'm itching to put a better starter in my car. Cheers.
  5. PaulTWinterton
    I've read many posts on upgrading from the original .95Kw starter to a variety of others. I can't conclude: 1. If money is no object which is the best for cranking my tii? 2. Is there an FAQ (tut) somewhere on installation of the same unit and electrical connection? I'm hoping to unbolt my old starter, and "pop-in" a lighter faster cranking unit that has the same simple electrical connections as my original. Could it be that easy? Thanks for reading and replying. Cheers.
  6. PaulTWinterton
    Cool. Driver's Edge is just down the street from me. I have just re&re'd all my hydraulic cylinders, pedal box, etc. and can't wait to bleed and be on my way. If I was younger and had more time, I'd probably build that DIY unit, but I believe I deserve to buy a pro unit. Plus I can lend it to fellow 02 guys around here. Cheers to all for your replies.
  7. PaulTWinterton
    I want to buy a pressure bleeder, but would rather not import into Canada. Can anyone recommend an off-the-shelf product I might buy in an auto parts store? Thanks for reading and replying. Cheers, Paul
  8. PaulTWinterton
    If you're in the middle of rebuilding your pedal box, brake booster and hydraulics, I have a simple tip that will save you at least an hour of frustration. The brake booster is secured with 4 bolts. Re-attach the booster BEFORE the pedal box. I did not! The lower nut closest to the fender, is near impossible to tighten from above. I did get the job done, dangling the wrench with chicken wire. And sliding my hand down into position to turn the wrench. Learn from my mistakes (son). :-)
  9. PaulTWinterton
    Another possibility is your rear universal joint. I had a guy last summer drive my car really hard. He says "that the way tii's are supposed to be driven". Shortly after that I had the clunk in the rear. I had all the thoughts you're having. Turns out both my (40yo) universals were toast. Not such an easy fix. Driveshaft has to come out. New unis must be peened in and shaft rebalanced. $400. approx. $800 gets you a new shaft (I think).
  10. PaulTWinterton
    Have you looked at the front muffler? At the BEST alignment it clears the underbody by 1/2" at the rear of the front muffler. If it's 1/4" or less it bangs against the underbody upon load or acceleration. If your car is of the stock variety it's kindof an easy fix. Just loosen connections (flange at downpipe, flange at rear muffler) and rotate pieces ever so slightly. Hope that's your problem. Good luck.
  11. PaulTWinterton
    My pictures never made it. Hmmmm? 2 pictures, less than a meg.
  12. PaulTWinterton
    I feel for ya man. Been down this road for 20 years. I still have a lean condition, but live with it. No AFM, but very dry plugs. Some easy inspections: I had my TB out and noticed that the lower shim on the bottom (where the rod enters) was loose and falling out. I could wiggle the rod sideways. That's not right I thought. I had a machine shop create a new shim. I also found a slight scar in the face of the TB that might have caused an air leak. Had it planed off. I do believe it made a difference, at least in throttle response. Pix attached.
  13. PaulTWinterton
    It's your speedo for sure. I opened mine, with great anxiety, but found that it is not that fragile or complicated. There is a large outer sleeve that acts as an electromagnet. Don't ask me the physics, that's all I know. The outer sleeve is slightly pressed in and a center ring (driven by the cable) spins to create the field and turn your needle. My outer sleeve was loose and spinning, catching, spinning, catching, causing the needle to go haywire. Voila. A simple bit of crazy glue to reseat the outer ring and it's back to normal.
  14. PaulTWinterton
    Hey, my neck of the woods! Their rural setting is actually Fort Langley, British Columbia. An hour from Vancouver. Don't know the car though. Anyone here? How come nobody asked me if I wanted my car in the show? Probably too orange. Upstage the yellow beetle.
  15. PaulTWinterton
    Petronix, I should have guessed. Missed that. I feel for ya. I've been down the same road. I replaced all intake gaskets, hoses, ad infinitum on mine. Had the KFish (o2) setup by Wes Ingram, WesIngram.com. Still runs lean. I will worship the person who solves this common issue with the tii. I don't necessarily believe that the PO detuned the system. There are too many tii's with this same issue.
  16. PaulTWinterton
    This may be trivial, but I didn't read anywhere that you checked your dwell. 58-61 degrees (if I recall) is optimum. I know that it made a whole lot of difference in starting, acceleration and fuel use when I dialled mine in. Got rid of occasional backfiring (unburned fuel) as well. I too still have a lean condition, but getting 18-21mpg in the city, which I believe is not too bad.
  17. PaulTWinterton
    Poon, look forward to seeing you and your car. Especially with those pretty wheels. Bill, anytime.
  18. PaulTWinterton
    You're the man!
  19. PaulTWinterton
    Paul, your tech tip on this subject is what gave me the nudge to do this job. I never would have guessed about the slotted top end of the box. I would have pulled that long bolt out. I followed MOST of your instructions. The rest I had to learn the hard way. :-( Thanks for writing that.
  20. PaulTWinterton
    Came with the car :-) I think post 73 cars have a different gas pedal. Stop built into the pedal. Roundies or maybe only tiis came with my config. realoem.com will likely have the diagrams to show the differences. Poon, have we met?
  21. PaulTWinterton
    I finally had a chance to reassemble my pedal box. It really is a joy to finish the job and see the results. It was so filthy under there. I followed a lot of FAQ advice, but not always. I got caught a few times and had to redo some work. A couple of lessons learned. Gas pedal linkage goes in AFTER the box is in place! Rubber cover glued to box BEFORE install. That way the frame rail side is guaranteed to fit properly. I used 3M marine glue liberally to coat inner surface of rubber cover and let it sit to cure for 2 months (not on purpose, couldn’t get back to the job). Mastic caulking can be messy. Don’t use too much. I’m quite happy with the new rubber cover. It’s solid and has a tough skin on it. I know in my lifetime that it will hold up. Besides, my car doesn’t go out in bad weather anymore. The days of driving it in the snow, slush, and heavy rain are in the past for this car. Fingers crossed that I don’t have any more fluid leaks. The last winter endeavor is to re-install the hydraulics on the top end. Booster, new hoses and MC are on the bench and ready to go. Pressure bleeder is my next purchase! Looking forward to it. Cheers.
  22. PaulTWinterton
    I'm putting a new MC, CM, and slave into mine, and you've helped me decide to get myself a pressure bleeder. I too have been overthinking the process. My wife complains about sitting in the car and pumping the pedals while I walk around the car. "Are we done yet?" Thanks for the post.
  23. PaulTWinterton
    Steve makes a good point. I forgot about the shifter platform blocks.
  24. PaulTWinterton
    Hey, I'm all for saving money, but aren't we talking about $40-50 all up. Shipping will cost that from the US. I bought the OEM parts 15 years ago, and they are still tight. Not sure urethane will really matter this side of another 100k kilometers.
  25. PaulTWinterton
    Safety wires. At the bottom of each strut is a safety wire. Document, photograph, and have a clear understanding of how to replace these. I can only offer the heads up. I don't know the process as I leave that stuff to pros. It's your life. Be safe.
×
×
  • Create New...