Jump to content

PaulTWinterton

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,801

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by PaulTWinterton

  1. PaulTWinterton
    Thanks for that. I'm a little surprised that BMW would design something where you jam a splayed flange through a narrow rubber opening. It just seems to be asking for damage to the rubber. Now I understand why people recommend doing this job with the MC disconnected from the peddle box. Cheers.
  2. PaulTWinterton
    What is the best way to re-install the filler pipe into a new MC? Thanks for reading and replying.
  3. PaulTWinterton
    Don't mean to hijack your thread, but you're the first Western wheel person I've met. The black and polished look is the coolest, if we do say so ourselves. ;-) Western wheels, blasted, painted black, and edge buffed.
  4. PaulTWinterton
    I've gotten a lot of good advice and I'm taking my time. The peddle box is out, rebuilt and ready to go back in. The old MC and SC are dangling under the car just waiting for me to replace. Yes, I will do all the connections, and then slide the MC into position. I'm looking forward to putting it all back together. It was the last spot on the car that was thick with 40yo grime.
  5. PaulTWinterton
    Thanks. I appreciate it.
  6. PaulTWinterton
    How do I remove the filler pipe from the clutch MC? Do I just yank it out? It looks like it is just jammed in, but before I use "brute force and ignorance" I thought I'd better get advice. Thanks.
  7. PaulTWinterton
    Looks very nice. Maaco's not so bad. And Hey! Those look like my wheels. Although maybe they're a little bigger. Mine are 13". Western? or Minilite?
  8. PaulTWinterton
    I'd agree with a VERY loud water pump. If left to sit, during a rebuild let's say, I've witnessed that screech, until the coolant deposits have been driven away. My theory anyway. The sound is loud enough to come from anywhere, and your loss of power is probably in your head. YOUR OWN HEAD, cause your baby is screaming.
  9. PaulTWinterton
    PlastiKote, Gun Metal Metallic #1018. Used steel wool to take the original paint down to a dull finish. Used 4 coats. Exceptionally hard finish once cured. I'm very happy with the paint and the finish.
  10. PaulTWinterton
    Yes, all parts and kits are available. Try BluntTech, sales@blunttech.com. Steve Blunt’s your man. Dejammey, mine is metal, as I’m pretty sure all were upto 74. I hoping my pops in and stays without too much grief. I yell at my car too.
  11. PaulTWinterton
    Dejammey, you say "plastic" hose from reservoir? It's metal, right? Mine is. I've read that assembling the MC and "pipe" to reservoir first is best. Makes sense, as working on top of the MC once installed looks tough. What I don't understand yet is the fitting of the filler "pipe" into the MC. My old MC is still dangling under the car and I'm getting ready to pull out the pipe and see how it fits into the top of the MC. I see in diagrams that there is a grommet that (appears to) seal the pipe into the MC. ?
  12. PaulTWinterton
    I must say that so far rebuilding the pedal box has been quite satisfying. I didn't know until opening the cover, that the MC was leaking. Mix fluid with carpet fibres, grease and dirt and you get a rusty gooey cesspool. The good news is, that it's easy to remove, clean, and paint. I found a good matching paint for the gunmetal color of the box and pedal levers. The outside insulation (thanks BLUNT) is much better than I thought it would be. Mine was a black dirty sponge that fell off in pieces. The new one has skin on it and seems much more rugged, or maybe it's just because it's new. Looks great though. Next endeavour is to plumb the new MC and SC correctly. I'm sure I'll be asking for advice. Cheers.
  13. PaulTWinterton
    Thanks for that. Mark, I may take you up on that as I owe you a visit and a box of beer at least for your 4speed donation. I’ll be in touch. 3M strip-calk sounds interesting as well. Cheers to all.
  14. PaulTWinterton
    I'm rebuilding my 40 year old pedal box and I'm not sure what the material is between the body and the box. Maybe there's something better to use. ? Advice please. Thanks for reading and replying.
  15. PaulTWinterton
    Wouldn't a light (or maybe heavy duty) cutting compound do the same or better than sanding? At least you'd see your results as you progress around the car. It seems that sanding would be more difficult with less rewarding results. You could even use a power tool to apply the compound. Maybe, maybe not.
  16. PaulTWinterton
    If only they could talk. I bet they've been around the block a few times. ;-)
  17. PaulTWinterton
    Another Brother. This is NOT California. They're salting the roads tonight.
  18. PaulTWinterton
    It's asking for 2-tone Cocomats! Beautiful.
  19. PaulTWinterton
    nbcbird: Thanks for the heads up. Marine glue sounds like the right thing to use considering the environment the cover has to live in. Trimming, huh. At least it's not too small. I don't receive all my rebuild parts for a few weeks so I have time to clean and paint that area. The last grimey area on the car.
  20. PaulTWinterton
    I'm rebuilding my pedal box and Clutch Master at the moment so I'm intimate with all the parts. My cover is/was a mess from years of abuse and deteriorated from dripping fluid. Also, it holds moisture, so the pedal box can rust away. $36 to replace. It appears they used a type of contact adhesive. I plan to use lepage's contact cement on both surfaces, wait til tacky and then apply the cover. Anyone else have a better adhesive idea? I'm open to opinions also
  21. PaulTWinterton
    Try checking the wires on the back of your alternator. Easily damaged when oil filter is being changed. Dirty, damaged, or loose wire will cause resistance and your alternator light to glow. My ground wire was hanging on by a strand for years. I always thought it was my alternator dieing. Good luck.
  22. PaulTWinterton
    Good to know. Pressure bleeder. 15psi. I realize now that this is simply a feeder system, not under high pressure. Therefore the rubber "stopper" technology. Thanks all for the knowledge.
  23. PaulTWinterton
    Greetings from Vancouver, the "Wet Coast". I'd almost put money on the rear window seal. Rubber seal deteriorates and leaks. Not visible to the eye, but a hose on the window will quickly show it streaming inside. Check under the rear seat. There are spaces for moisture to move forward onto the rear floor. I had this happen as well on the windsheild seal into the front passenger floor. A quick fix is a small tube of silicone sealer, with the pointed tip well under the window seal as you squeeze silicone around the seal. Seal rubber to body on roof, rubber to glass on the lower area. Worked like a charm for me, 15 years ago, when I had a lake in the passenger side floor front and rear.
  24. PaulTWinterton
    Sorry Mike, missed your first question. My clutch hydraulics are all 40 yo, so I presume it's rubber. I have left the MC et al, hanging below the car until I'm ready to replace, so I haven't pulled it apart yet. Visibly the MC grommet is rubber with the pipe inserted inside. Pedal box is first and then I'll work on the MC and SC. Looking forward to cleaning up this area, as it is the last gooey, slimey, dirty, oily area left in the car.
  25. PaulTWinterton
    Thanks Mike, I kinda figured it would be easier to assemble and then install. It seems unusual to have a rubber pressure-fit assembly, but hey German technology. I was undecided whether to install from above or below, but you answered that. That upper mounting bolt (MC) was a little tough to get at, but after removing the accelerator lever I could fit a box end wrench without problem. We'll see if the new piece is the same. Thanks again.
×
×
  • Create New...