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PaulTWinterton

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Everything posted by PaulTWinterton

  1. PaulTWinterton
    There have been a couple of posts recently that are similar to this but they do not address an ongoing issue that I have. I'm on my 3rd stock exhaust system, over 25 years, and I have memories of others buying stock as well. ALL had the same problem I'm experiencing now. The center resonator outer shield rattles, especially when the engine is cold. The resonator is NOT touching anything, it just rattles at a certain harmonic pitch and rpm. Any others with this experience? What to do, the rattling is annoying.
  2. PaulTWinterton
    I'm on my 3rd stock exhaust system, over 25 years and 3 cars, and I have memories of others buying stock as well. ALL had the same problem I'm experiencing now. The center resonator outer shield rattles, especially when the engine is cold. It's not touching anything, it just rattles at a certain harmonic pitch and rpm. What to do about it? Am I missing something, or have I installed incorrectly?
  3. PaulTWinterton
    I had a similar situation. The L light glowed very dimly, and constantly. The ground wire attached at the back of the alternator was hanging on by a couple of strands. Fixed that and no longer had the issue. Sometimes it's the simplest things (when you're lucky).
  4. PaulTWinterton
    I just had similar issues. Firstly, IMHO, steering wobble is more likely balance, alignment or maybe a bent front wheel. Under your butt, more likely ujoints, center bearing, rear wheel balance, or bent wheel. My issue was dead ujoints and sagging center bearing. First symptom was vibration on aggressive acceleration (center bearing). Second symptom was a "click" on startup (ujoint). Third symptom, "crunching" on aggresive start in first gear (ujoints I believe). That was when I'd had enough. I removed driveshaft and sure enough, ujoints and center bearing were toast. Had new ujoints peened-in, center bearing replaced, and driveshaft balanced ($400). I re-assembled, pre-loaded center bearing, and went for a test drive. I believe I still have a slight bit of vibration under my butt on aggressive acceleration, so I’m going to make an alignment tool and confirm that my driveline is straight. I, as well, am not sure how to easily re-align driveshaft as there really isn’t any adjustment at the center bearing, unless it’s to be lowered. Then you can add washers/shims. It's never that easy.
  5. PaulTWinterton
    Very nice. Love Colorado. Here's an interactive chart to see all the original 2002 colors. "Click" on the color tab. http://www.dagsites.com/2002colors.htm
  6. PaulTWinterton
    I had similar issues at high rpm because the gas tank filter was almost totally clogged and anytime there was a high demand for fuel, the engine would cut out. Would run fine at lower rpms. Also, because the filter is so clogged, fuel pressure is low, making it difficult to set fuel/air mixture properly. Rich/lean/unburnt fuel. All causing flooding, runon, hard starting......... Check your fuel pressure (s/b 28.5psi min) and filters. You may be pleasantly surprised to find blockage that is easily remedied with inexpensive filters. Oh yeah. Check your dwell if you haven't lately. Makes a difference.
  7. PaulTWinterton
    Gas tank inspection: Remove the bolts and hoses from the fuel sending unit on top of your gas tank. I use small visegrips with a cloth rag buffer to clamp rubber fuel lines before disconnecting. Keeps excessive fuel from spilling. Be careful around gasoline. Lift out the sending unit. Check the screen on the bottom. Should be clear mesh. If it's opaque, that's your problem. Likely. If the touring is fuel-injected (? excuse my lack of knowledge): There should be (but not always) filter screens at the inlet and outlet of the electric fuel pump. They can get clogged after years of flow.
  8. PaulTWinterton
    Hi Bill, You need a spring-loaded pin on the wheel. It completes the circuit as it slides around on the brass ring. Your horn button (switch) connects to the pin and the steering column. You push the horn, closing the curcuit, pin transfers the closed circuit to the ring and BEEP! Or LIGHTS if you've used SteveJ's advice. Why not keep the sport wheel? Paul
  9. PaulTWinterton
    Hey Bill, Did you disconnect the flasher on the inside left apron? It's connected to the signals. I assume it would need to be connected for the signals to work. Oh yeah, your hazards are connected to a consol switch AND the flasher unit. Probably needs to be a complete circuit as well. Paul
  10. PaulTWinterton
    Good story, and educational. I didn't know about the "dab of RTV". Sorry, what is RTV? And exactly where do you dab it? FAQ Archive? I recently replaced my gasket with a Reinz and have wiped oil from edges a few times, even after re-tightening acorns. I'll follow your lead. __________________ 73 Inka Tii #2762958
  11. PaulTWinterton
    What I found is that the correct washer is thicker than usual. In my search I found correct ID and OD but too thin. Nobody that I found has a thick enough washer. Using a thin one, the valve bottoms out and does not create a seal.
  12. PaulTWinterton
    Belt sander? I did smooth the surfaces, but I'm sure the seal is crushed too much. As I said the valve bottoms out before a seal is achieved.
  13. PaulTWinterton
    Yes, the outlet valve has the copper seal at its base. I tried local autoparts shops as well as BMW and industrial fittings suppliers. I could find the right ID and OD but the thickness is greater. The valve bottoms out if the seal is crushed too much. I'm not sure how to ask Mercedes/Volve/Saab for the part, if I don't have a # or reference to their pumps. Ideas?
  14. PaulTWinterton
    What about throw-out bearing? Does the sound change when the clutch is engaged, or not engaged?
  15. PaulTWinterton
    I removed the brass outlet on the pump. There is a unique copper washer to seal it against the pump. Unfortunately the washer is dead, crushed. I looked everywhere locally and can't find a supplier. Short of converting to a 5-Series pump, anyone know where I can get this copper seal/washer? This pump is young and has years left on it, don't want to lose it. Thanks for reading and replying. _________________ 73 Inka Tii #2762958
  16. PaulTWinterton
    Best Mechanic in the Pacific Northwest: Patrick O'Neil Midnight Motorsport 503 381 7287 www.midnightmotorsport.com Eats-Sleeps-Drinks 02s You know what they say about living in the Pacific Northwest? "The best climate and the worst weather" Keep Ivy outa the snow, and rain if you really care. __________________ 73 Inka Tii #2762958
  17. PaulTWinterton
    Could easily be, and easy to check. Gas tank filter. 10min job to remove hoses and bolts. You should be able to see through the filter on the bottom of the fuel pickup. Not the usual symptom, but could be REALLY plugged. If it's SORTA plugged, check other filters. Worth a try. __________________ 73 Inka Tii, #2762958
  18. PaulTWinterton
    Thanks for the input. Solved. 1. Clamp fuel hoses using small vise grips (with cloth buffer). 2. disconnect hoses and electrical. 3. Cap all fuel pump in/outs using brake bleeder caps. 4. Clean area of any spilt fuel. 5. Put 1" thin cutting wheel on dremel. 6. Cut slot in top of pump chassis mount nuts, down to washer. Nut will split. 7. Drop pump. 8. Repeat nut cuts to remove the mounts from car brackets. _________________ 73 Inka Tii #2762958
  19. PaulTWinterton
    You just described exactly what I did. Only I couldn't get ANY purchase on the backing plate. Cutting worked well on the visible mount. Now I'm faced with removing the 2 mounts that are hidden behind the pump. Still looking for a magic solution. Anyone? _________________ 73 Inka Tii #2762958
  20. PaulTWinterton
    Anyone have advice on how to remove old tii fuel pump rubber mounts? The rubber twists and the nuts won't loosen. I did cut the nuts off one mount using a Dremel, but the others are inaccesable to the Dremel. Any magic tricks? Thanks, __________________ 73 Inka Tii, #2762958
  21. PaulTWinterton
    I want your life! __________________ 73 Inka Tii #2762958
  22. PaulTWinterton
    Now I'm leaning toward CV joint crunching, but from what I gather they are NLA. Crunching would tell me that it is DEAD! So no repairing, just finding a used one and cleaning up? _________________ 73 Inka Tii #2762958
  23. PaulTWinterton
    A “click” sound occurs from under the car when starting out. Aggressive acceleration from a stop creates a CRUNCHING sound from under and to the rear of the car. While driving at 2500rpm, then accelerating, a vibration occurs under and to the rear of the car. Driving passively does not seem to cause these symptoms. I’ve ruled out the guibo, as I’ve experienced the knocking and vibration of a broken one, as heard through the transmission tunnel. Also I’ve ruled out the exhaust pipe hitting the drive shaft. Not the same sound. Universal Joints? Center link? Differential? Opinions and/or experience please. Thanks for reading and replying. _________________ 73 Inka Tii #2762958
  24. PaulTWinterton
    I'm with Ray Koke. My money: In-tank filter clogged. _________ 73 Inka Tii
  25. PaulTWinterton
    Further to my post: I said relay on the left front fender. I meant voltage regulator 12321350052. Ground that sheet metal screw properly or replace with through bolt.
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