PeterVarga

I read that Sylvania makes a sealed beam for motorcycle that fits. I can't remember where I saw it or what the model # was. Maybe another poster knows. It is as bright as those Xenons that require a special fixture. You can find those on EBay and they are not that expensive.

and don't forget to make sure tires are same l/r, tire pressure is same left/right, alignment is same toe, camber left and right and finally.....you didn't let the fluid or lubricant leak onto the rotor......clean them with brake clean solvent....a leak in the caliper piston could put a couple of drops on the rotor.....that would do it!

yeah.....what he said! Whatever, if droplets really form, then he has to re-baseline his carb. good word shootin'....

I guess there is a discussion on this subject. The idle adjust needle controls flow into the idle venturi. This is located at the bottom of the carb below the throttle plates. In fact, sometimes a poorly installed gasket covers this. It still works despite this but next time make sure the gasket is notched out to permit the idle spray unfettered. Take out the primary venturi on that crossmember and look at it. It doesn't have a fine spray nozzle. It is a large oval slot that drizzles the already metered fuel into the flow of air into the throat of the carb. The accelerator nozzle squirts a stream (not a mist) into the throat of the carb. There is so much turbulance in that throat that the fuel droplets get atomized probably before they hit the throat butterfly at the bottom. But....on those webers, there are recommended sizes for each of these contributors to fuel/air mixture. And they have to be correct. If you are seeing large droplets in the throat then your primary venturi assembly coule be larger than spec. Also, remember that the flow into the primary venturi is controlled by the 'main jet', the air corrector jet, and the emulsion tube. Those work in concert causing a mist that is fed to the venturi. If those are not at spec, then your droplets could be excessively large. I think you start with a "50" main, and a F50 emulsion tube, and a 175 air corrector jet. While you are inspecting these components for correct specification, clean them with carb solvent and clean the passage ways as well. Dirt or obstruction in the carb may prevent the proper emulsion from forming and you might observe heavy droplets in you barrel. Good Luck

(nt)

the clock face is probably sealed to the clock mechanism. Whereas the speedo and tach aren't. Mine fog up because there is excess moisture in the vehicle. But they defog nicely when the heater is on and the car warms up.

Make sure your timing is keeping up with your engine. Sounds a bit retarded. Or a mechanical or vacuum advance is lagging. But keep it within smog limits. As the previous poster has said repeatedly you have to be absolutly certain of your carb. That means clean it out thoroughly, make sure the jetting is within range, and that all tubes are connected where they should be. A vacuum leak might contribute to that stall out that you are experiencing. Float setting, and low fuel pressure from a marginal pump might contribute. Many things have to function in concert to get rid of that flat spot.

was bummed to hear about the fate of Ms. West. However, recover the physical ailments first. And eventually the dear vehicle can be restored. What hospital is the vehicle in! and are there visiting hours. Best luck with it.

this is the one I was looking for....thanks for posting that other one it's more informative.

thanks C.D. ... but the emission diagram for the '76, black lines and blue lines on a white sticker backing (like the one in DagSites) is the hard to find one. I have one that got squirted with carb cleaner....a little dab has done it....boy that was stupid! Oh Yeah, I asked Bob Tilux from EBay if he could get it and he said not as of when I asked.....maybe sometime in the future....

Everybody always forgets the white emissions diagram sticker for the '76. Boy if you could get one of those, that'd be great!

Pulling apart the ball-joint at the end of the tie rod is routinely done with the specific tool made for that. If you can get your hands on one (BaVauto sells it.) its a piece of cake. The tough one is the steering box arm to the center drag link on the drivers side of the center drag link. The tie rod puller doesn't fit. A universal puller or the pitman arm puller may work, I haven't tried it yet. Maybe that's why the PO put teflon tape and the No. 2 (or No. 3) ball joint taper. I've coated mine with a light swab of wheel bearing grease (red stuff) before assembly and found the wedging so tight that it needed a puller to remove it from its mating half. Steering is important for the safety of the car and occupants. This method of linkage assembly insures that it won't rattly apart on its own.

In most cases, the extra dollar means that it is built a bit more stoutly. For instance, The quality control of the case moldings and switches are better on the more expensive multimeter. However, functionally, the less expensive ones function properly and some of their extra functions are usefull indeed. My $14.99 recent purchase has capacitance that my Fluke doesn't and it actually works!. If I dropped both of them, I'd put my money on the Fluke to surrvive that test. Any multimeter is subject to occasionally intermittant readings. Contact corrosion, strong RF fields nearby, or damage from physical abuse may make multiple readings necessary. Sometimes they get sticky like the old analog meters. You have to read the reading and ask yourself if it is in the ballpark with any meter. Thats part of knowing how to use a multimeter.

On the frugal side, I purchased a car cover from seller: "BrightPicks" on EBay for 19.95 plus s/h. It was slow to arrive but is a quilted water-resistant 'paper-fabric,' that fits the car. It sheds water, however the recent deluge soaked it through. Had to dry off the car. Soft on inside and not scratchy. I recommend this one for 'street-parking,' where the neighborhood joy riders can liberate cars at night.....and it doesn't kill your pocketbook! I'd have to put an antitheft device on that premium BavAuto cover. And I think stenciling your licence plate number in large spray paint letters all over the car cover makes it useless to thieves. Or maybe less desireable. Good Luck.

if a later model one will fit BavAuto sells one for $129. But thats for the '76

(nt)

Most of the references toward 'upgrading the wiring' concern headlamps. The original equipment lamps draw a certain amount of CURRENT (as the previous poster explained.) These, especially at idle produce that softer 'yellow' glow that was welcome when the car was made. These days, there are many excellent upgrades that fit into the headlamp sockets. They draw much more CURRENT than the originals did. That means that the original wiring was not designed to provide current for the modern bulbs. Therfore, in the lignthing circuits the talk is adding higher current wiring between the battery and the lamps. This higher current wiring is switched by relays so as not to overheat the original wiring. The original wiring provides the signal for the relay (a modest current service) and the contacts of the relay handle the large headlamp current. One or more relays are necessary and they must be rated at the headlamp current with some extra headroom so as not to create a meltdown situation. Over prolonged driving, the larger alternator keeps the battery voltage sufficiently high to keep them burning at their rated color. The vintage 35 amp alternator may not keep the charge rate in pace with the draw from the extra-bright headlamps. Thats why there is talk about the 80amp alternator and the heavy duty wiring and relays. Those bright lamps draw a large amount of current.

(nt)

(nt) sorry about the chaotic posts - I think my keyboard is sticky!

From picture 200004.jpg, it looks as if there is not a wire connected for signal to the solenoid. There are 'quick disconnect' tabs at the 12 o'clock posiiton of the solenoid. As suggested, test with +12vdc for solenoid activity momentarily. Then find the starter wire from the ignition harness and connect there. (If this is a modern replacment starter, such as a BOSCH SR74x read the blog in the 2002tii regester. Esentially, on this starter, the proper tab for connection of the start energize is at the bottom of the solenoid when viewed in mounted position.) Reference website: http://www.thetiiregister.com/phpmyfaq/index.php?action=artikel&cat=19&id=25&artlang=en

Try a bit os starting fluid. If you're running lean it'll tell you by starting right away. Then you'll know you had a fuel issue. Maybe the choke.

All I know is that when I got the car the rear wheels were perfect. They lined parallel with the frame and the camber geometry was square with the ground, really 0 degrees. Then one day it changed. The fronts of the rear tires were in about 7-8 mm (toe-in) on each side and the wheels are not parallel but point trapezoidally upward. I changed rear springs and the camber still is not proper. I think someone removed the entire subcarrier, differential, and shaft and swapped it with one from another vehicle. Thats why I ask, could they have installed a different year and it doesn't fit? I think that's what happened. Total bummer. Sorry for airing gripes in public.

Disconnect one of the battery cables to eliminate the possiblity that there is a 'rogue' load pulling it down. A fresh battery should hold the regulated charging voltage after being suffiently charged (RPM above idle say 1500 for a couple of minutes without extra loads such as lights, blower, radio, rear defroster, etc.) In your case that's 13.5v. If removing the cable makes a difference you may have a leakage path to ground that is pulling down a good battery. While its too much to hope for, a really good battery can float to 15 or more volts. The hi output of a roll a round charger is 18v. A batter can take a higher charge than the regulated charge from the alternator. A really good battery can hold 12.5 volts with the starter cranking. One of the best batteries I ever had was a DieHard. But if they sit on the shelf at Sears they're just like any other.

thanks

Vanguard did good work on mine as well.