PeterVarga

advanced

re float setting: it has been said...I follow the instructions and set it Hi and dry out of the body according to the measurements. It seems a dark art setting these things and one gets the feeling if they told you exactly what is need to know, .... they'd have to kill ya....so can't really ask that hence the equivocal answers! Kind of like Kings and Vagabonds....and penniless Millionaires...When I find out I'll post it! Until then waiting for a better answer.

actually, the choke plate is the one that can open just about vertical. The mechanism that opens it esentially has to get it out of the way as much as it can for total airflow. This is nominally referred as "vertical" but may be "near vertical" in fact. A picture is better but the timing port on my car is slightly drivers side of center on the bell housing. It has about a 1/2" viewing port and when looking into it there is a wedge of metal that serves as the indicia. Consult the shop manual, it says that the ball "bearing" mounted on the rotating flywheel is half viseable each time the timing lamp strobes it. It looks as if the ball is split, half viesable and half covered by the index. In fact, the ball position is rarely perfect and appears to advance and retard slightly. The best you can hope for is an average postion the center of it half under the flap. That is 0 degrees TDC. That's where the book says it is timed and that's why it gets set there. Yeah, that spring looks shot. Replace it. And test your throttle for wiggle. It might be loose.

Save the parenthesis....I'm sure all of us would like to know what happens when the float is above or below what it should be. All I know is that when the float chamber on my WEBER DGAV is set too low, it runs out of gas before the fuel pump can get primed. Engine then needs another start for it to keep running! Wierd ain't it. Somebody out there must have a paragraph on the whys/wherefors of float levels. ???? >>>>>and I for one favor the "post your results," movement that gets occasional mention.

It does sound as if your main throttle plate is hanging up on something. I don't know the Solex that much but if it has a DASHPOT, passive or active, make sure it's not sticky or that the vacuum line that controls it is operationable. Test the choke, if manual, the cable is not binding, if automatic make sure it is adjusted properly for vertical open choke plate at op temp. An electrical fault would keep the electrical element from opening and a bimetal choke spring in the water choke would keep that one from opening properly. And turn the choke barrel making sure the plate is open after warm-up. Linkage wise, the other posters have covered the territory. If the throttle plate isn't properly centered in the barrel of the carb, it binds on the internal bore and may catch when returning to the closed position. Spring tension, and part alignment is key here so look carefully. Sounds as if you eliminated the ignition issues. You might want to test for a vacuum leak to smooth out the idle. If you spray carb cleaner on the mini hoses while the air cleaner is covered any seepage of solvent into the intake manifold throug leak paths raises the idle. That is telltale of emission leaks. Oh, and always make sure your fuel is clean. You didn't put any octane booster or other additive in fuel. Solvents tend to raise (sometimes lower) the peaceful idle of our dear little cars. Ask me how I know! Good Luck. -just thought of this....you said that the timing is set correctly, however, sometimes this can be set incorrectly. There is a poster on this BBS that knows the drill re: timing. Make sure that the little ball is split in half by the window marker with the dizzy advance/retard removed and plugged. You didn't say what year the car was but I think this is correct for all years. My experience is that if the timing is advanced, it tends toward a higher idle. Especially when the engine is warm/hot.

look at your idle solenoid wire. It may have come off. And I think there is a fuse that isolates it....I think #8 in a twelvepac block.

The 'transition' stage to which the poster above referrs is called the "Progression" stage in the WEBER book I have. They say that when the idle circuit is blocked, the progression circuit controls the idle of the carb. It draws air through the air corrector and emulsion tube circuit. That's why they say it affects the idle.

Sounds like just about perfect.....check wire related shorts, twist insulators making sure they are seated into end of spark wires. Listen for that "short to ground' snapping sound....might have a path to ground somewhere.... And lastly, I was told that if there is ethanol in your gas (added as a retardant and for cleaner burning) these older style engines react with a slight mis. Try high octane racing fuel from the speed shop for a day and maybe the mis disappears.

It's difficult. Once inside, the lock is simply removed. The difficult part is removing the rearmost backing plate. It is held in by a tight fitting press fit around the perimeter. You need a tool such as a collet to grab the middle while the outer rim is pryed out. I drilled a 1/4" hole in this rear plate and screwed a bolt into to try to remove it, Didn't really work, then used a metal rod with a bend at the end tor pull the plate out. It worked but plate was deformed and there was a hole in plate. Metal can be straightened, then hole filled with weld .... interior is filled with a type of parchment that is glued together....pull slowly or it rips this stuff. And if you try the bolt through the plate method, don't let the bottom of the bolt put a ding in the outer surface of the gas cap ... it shows through!

It's difficult. Once inside, the lock is simply removed. The difficult part is removing the rearmost backing plate. It is held in by a tight fitting press fit around the perimeter. You need a tool such as a collet to grab the middle while the outer rim is pryed out. I drilled a 1/4" hole in this rear plate and screwed a bolt into to try to remove it, Didn't really work, then used a metal rod with a bend at the end tor pull the plate out. It worked but plate was deformed and there was a hole in plate. Metal can be straightened, then hole filled with weld .... interior is filled with a type of parchment that is glued together....pull slowly or it rips this stuff. And if you try the bolt through the plate method, don't let the bottom of the bolt put a ding in the outer surface of the gas cap ... it shows through!

don't put 'oil' into your fuel system....please. There is a 'water scavenger' out there but I can't remember the brand name. Fuel treatments are for octane boosting or cleaning of carb or injectors. Unless you have those symptoms it probably isn't needed. But putting oil in is going to cause smoke.....at least I think that what it does.

don't put 'oil' into your fuel system....please. There is a 'water scavenger' out there but I can't remember the brand name. Fuel treatments are for octane boosting or cleaning of carb or injectors. Unless you have those symptoms it probably isn't needed. But putting oil in is going to cause smoke.....at least I think that what it does.

Got to eliminate misfiring before it is worth retesting. Check each plug wire for opens.....tighten each plug connector with a twist making sure it has not worked free. Next is vacuum leaks. Every hose should be connected to something and not leaking. The Weber has three stages, idle, progression and main. If you are having a fuel based miss, your idle circuit is probably blocked and you are running on prog or main circuits. Back off your throttle stop and get that engine idling on only idle with butterfly fully closed (no progresive). If it doesn't idle properly at 600 RPM remove idle jet (behind idle cutout solenoid), remove idle adjust screw at base of carb, and remove emulsion tube. Blast with carb cleaner making sure orfices are clear. Verify that your emulsion tube is clean, free from debris and the correct one for your car. I think they run F50 for the 2002. Inspect your idle jet for blockage and correct size. Look at hole in tip and sides etc, You should see light through them otherwise they are blocked. Idle adjustment screw should have a pointed tip without burrs on it. If you have an incorrect adjustment screw you cant reduce the flow of the idle jet and can't lean out the mixture....this would contribute significantly toward the misfiring and 12x/9x smog readings.

Got to eliminate misfiring before it is worth retesting. Check each plug wire for opens.....tighten each plug connector with a twist making sure it has not worked free. Next is vacuum leaks. Every hose should be connected to something and not leaking. The Weber has three stages, idle, progression and main. If you are having a fuel based miss, your idle circuit is probably blocked and you are running on prog or main circuits. Back off your throttle stop and get that engine idling on only idle with butterfly fully closed (no progresive). If it doesn't idle properly at 600 RPM remove idle jet (behind idle cutout solenoid), remove idle adjust screw at base of carb, and remove emulsion tube. Blast with carb cleaner making sure orfices are clear. Verify that your emulsion tube is clean, free from debris and the correct one for your car. I think they run F50 for the 2002. Inspect your idle jet for blockage and correct size. Look at hole in tip and sides etc, You should see light through them otherwise they are blocked. Idle adjustment screw should have a pointed tip without burrs on it. If you have an incorrect adjustment screw you cant reduce the flow of the idle jet and can't lean out the mixture....this would contribute significantly toward the misfiring and 12x/9x smog readings.

Dash lights out might be No. 8 on your 12 fuse model. There is a ground wire that falls off (especially if you've been in there recently) behind the cluster. Pull guages forward and make sure wire connector and ground lugs are on. Turn signals might be the corosion mentioned or again, ground wire....it is a seperate wire and is a screw into the fender. Make sure it is clean and tight. And never forget to ohm out the bulb itself! Your turn bulb might be open! It is a twin filament....parking is the lower wattage and signaling is the more wattage element. Bulb might be in reverse of supposta!

Dash lights out might be No. 8 on your 12 fuse model. There is a ground wire that falls off (especially if you've been in there recently) behind the cluster. Pull guages forward and make sure wire connector and ground lugs are on. Turn signals might be the corosion mentioned or again, ground wire....it is a seperate wire and is a screw into the fender. Make sure it is clean and tight. And never forget to ohm out the bulb itself! Your turn bulb might be open! It is a twin filament....parking is the lower wattage and signaling is the more wattage element. Bulb might be in reverse of supposta!

Mike: put me down for two. I can send M/O or paypal first week in Jan 2008 if you send address. Thanks. I have been looking for spare gas cap keys. Pete You can reach me at EMail: PeterVarga1953@juno.com My cap looks the same as the following posted picture.....but, I hear that there are at least a couple of differnt blanks for different locks...one labeled "v" and one labeled "u" along with a number. Can't seem to find them out here.

well i guess you're on your own....but because of the balanced geometery of the steering links, left and right tie-rod should be exactly the same length. 3-4 mm is a differnt setup. You can get a 24" caliper for about $25 that is accurate enough....just find the same place on each side. But it's your baby...! Have Fun.

Proper exhaust manifold nuts have a built in anti-loosening feature. The skirt of the nut has metal parts that actually grab the stud and prevent backing out like a lockwasher They are typically 12mm and you actually need the room to get the standard box wrench around the backside of it....not enough room for a 'gear-wrench' and with all the ratcheting you need to do in that very cramped location it would be the perfect tool if it fit!

maybe last time you had the plastic cowl that covers the ignition switch you mashed the wires to ground. Inspect them on the right hand side of the column after removing the black plastic 'inner' protective 'thingy' that has the 1 1/2" hole in it that fits around the ignition key switch that is sharp enough to remove the insulation of the two wires in that buzzer circuit. And there is enough metal around there that the input side can get shorted to ground.

I guess the question is wether your steering coupler is off one or two ticks, your steering wheel is off one or two ticks, or if the entire steering geometry needs readjusting. I think you have to start with the drag link and the tie-rods. Try to get them centered as before the high tech alighment. With car on jackstands, measure the tierods. The left one should be exactly the same as the right one. Depending on where you grab your measurement and how accurate your ruler/caliper/eye is, you should get about 15 inches on each side. If you have forgotten what it may have been start from scratch. Measure them, then set them equal, then lower car, with steering wheel straight (you may have to drive on smooth pavement for 15 feet with wheel centered to make sure that wheels are tracking,) use the ball of string along the passenger's side then along the drivers side. The string should hit the tire fore and aft if it is parallel. That's a starting point. I have a string on a caribiner and clip it in the exhaust pipe rear. Then pull around rear tires then front. You can wrap the string around a freestanding jackstand as an anchor in the front. Keep the string taught and you'll get an indication of where your wheel is. The only problem is, once you make an adjustment by turning the tie rod, you have to drive the car again on flat surface to retrack the tires for measurement. At best I've been able to find a sweet spot. Then lock them down. But for the wheel to be centered, and the vehicle to track straight, the length of the tie rod (counting threads is nearly as good) seems to be the critical measurement. Then identify your tierods for your own information, write down the exact length of each one for the future. I guarantee you'll be under there in another week. Unless you decide to weld them. Good Luck Oh Yeah, if your steering wheel isn't centered after this, your coupler or STWheel is off. Once you determine where the steering wheel should be you may want to put a punchmark at 0 degrees for future reference. The turn signal cancel cam is repositionable once the gland nut is off. It should be centered at the 9:00 position if the stalk is on the left. Then watch that it doesn't wander out of position on retightening the nut.

that write-up is great! One thing, note that some cars have the rollers removed that mount on the ends of the hood locking cam. This affects the final position of the hood fixtures right/left at the window side of the hood.

From what I can view beneath the air cleaner it looks very much like the DGV series of dual barrel carbs. Venturi size is difficult to determine until you remove the KN filter on top. But it is probably the 32/36. I think the hose in the lower right corner is the feed for the water choke making it a DGAV, the "A" designates water choke. The lid of the float chamber is viseable and that is typical of the DGV style. I'd say Weber 32/36 DGAV.

Couldn't find it in my WEBER book. Those numbers might not be the designators. Describe the carb in terms of side draft / down draft, number of barrels, type of choke, and post a picture if you can. What vehicle are you trying to tune. You know they made webers for Datsuns and Toyotas with different size venturis! If its on '02 chances are that it is the venerable 32/36 DGV....but there are a lot of others out there.

I did it this way and it seemed to work. Drive car front near chain link fence or telephone pole. Tie center latch of hood open to this object with string and not touching the fence/pole so it doesn't fall when you remove other items. With hood stabilized, remove left then right arms. The spring pressure is pressing them down at this point....lift each one up one at a time, and bend the half arm upon itself and tape it into position. You might want to place a rag or protector of some type on the fender in case the arm desides to snap. Then do other arm. With hood stabilized and arms unbolted at fender and taped you can deal with the ends of the torsion tube that contains the springs. I think the failure to fold flat comes from a misalignment here or an error in installing the ends. THE ENDS SHOULD TUCK UP INTO THE HOOD AREA....IT IS COUNTER INTUITIVE! THE FASTNING BOLTS (TWO EACH SIDE) ARE BELOW THE ROD END AND TUBE. Slacken the bolts, and with a sledge covered with cloth or rubber, persuade the assembly into its upper most position and tighten the bolts. Repeat on next side. Make sure everything is snug, low torque or it'll pull the metal out, then begin reinstalling the support arms. Make sure the shoulder bolt permits free movement of the arms and can lock down on the bracket. But, leave the final tightening of these bolts for later. You'll close the hood and determine where it likes to sit when closed. After determing the clearance of the hood/windshield space is even and sufficient open the hood and tighten the support arm bolts left and right. That should do it.