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PeterVarga

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Everything posted by PeterVarga

  1. Listing this without permission of owner....but I just saw it with a For Sale sign on it near Costco in San Francisco. Looks like its is really great shape. Fresh paint, and very clean interior. Steel original style wheels, Dark Green color. Square lites, big bumpers, and only one paint chipoff, scratch on trunk, door love dings (a couple.) The sign asks for $9000 and the phone is 415-297-2468. Put better tires on it and it would make a really pretty car.
  2. Before you purchase an adj advance timing light, try getting your spark sync off a different cylinder....you might just find the ball bearing if you look carefully. I found that #4 provided a very clear ball when #1 did not.
  3. My favorite is the elusive heatriser/downpipe noisemaker. If you still have an air preheat hose it gets its warm air from a clip near the double pipe section of the downpipes. If that is off on one side, it clanks against the pipes. Stuff steelwool in the slot and it might quiet the buzz.
  4. If its a '76 you probably want to let it remain stock setup until they change the Emissions req't (if the car is reg in CA.) Otherwise, you have an air input for injection from the air pmp. And the exhaust return for the EGR. If you can determine the thread sides and diameters for the connectors, just fab a metal disk into an old connector and cap them off. A properly working EGR is still required for a pass in CA.
  5. ....another item for inspection is your rear wheel CAMBER. Measure with a carpenter's square against the tire and road surface. If the bottom of the tire touches the square and the top rubber does not then your wheel is off. A weak spring or missing spring pad may be the cause but it could also be a trick trailing arm. I have heard stories where a mechanic mounted an offset arm made for racing in place of the straight stock arm. A couple of degrees is viseable as you look from the rear of the car and could explain the ride height issue you are experiencing. Removing the spring requires freeing the shock at the top (at least)...might as well remove the entire shock. Releasing the links from the sway bar....and I think you might want to remove the stub axle from the hub. Then the entire arm drops out of the way without stressing the axle joints.
  6. Quote:" .....considering where we have to point it ...." I bought the Sears TL that looks like the Equus style. Wide head with flex point in the middle. Found it very difficult to get flashlamp on axis with viewing hole in transmission. Carb and smog equipment blocked the rather large handle unit. Solution was took timiing light apart and separated head from trigger boards with a foot of wire. Then, smaller head only part fit in position for lighting the ball in the hole. Worked really excellent. Incidentally, the smallest one I've seen is the Snap-On .... but .... I'll bet it is really pricey.
  7. Greg: I sent off an EMail. You should received it shortly. Thanx
  8. More specifics would be helpful. When you say does not want to go into gear ... does that mean that the gear grinds and won't mesh ... or does the shift lever balk at the detent before it even compresses the syncro? If it grinds that means your first gear syncro is bad. If the lever hesitates and won't permit your to push the lever into gear, the spring and ball bearing that finds the 'detent' in the shift rod is probably full of way to heavy trans fluid. The second secanario can be fixed by a tranny washout with thin solvent and a refil with a lighter transmission (non hypoid) oil. Of course, this assumes that this is a manual transmission such as the Getrag 232 that originally came with the car!?
  9. I purchased a heater bracket from Greg a while ago and need another one. Sent EMail for Greg at sales@cpiauto.com and didn't get any response. Greg must be on vacation or anyone know a better contact address? Thanks
  10. A while ago a faq'er posted the diagram from the manual describing the proper method for aligning the headlamps of the '02. Tonight I tried this method and found that the aiming looked a bit higher than I though it should be. Any comments? It says aim the center of the low beams (?) at the marks on the wall. At '16 the level is the same as the height off the ground at the car. Shouldn't it taper downward a bit? I don't know....this is the first attempt. Any suggestions?
  11. Mike .... quel bummer or ist it bimmer? Hope you get it fixed. Best of Luck.
  12. went to the CPI website and info@cpiauto.com bounced my EMail. I'll try the other one, sales@cpiauto.com. Bracket is not needed.....the hose does hold the valve in place and operates as if the bracket was intact.....but I'm getting fussy here, some mechanic broke it and didn't mention it....I'd rather fix it while the heater box is out....maybe next month if things proceed acording to plan. contact info appreciated.
  13. Mine's broken. I heard that someone on this FAQ bbs has made a replacment? Searched archives and couldn't find the thread. Anyone Know.....before I go to the plastic store and make one.
  14. Double02 Salvage in Hayward, CA had them last year when I needed them.
  15. If your resonator is clamped to the final muffler the pipes can rotate letting the pipes touch underbody things. Do the three bolt loosen at the down pipe, put a jack under the res to final junction and keeping it up near the body tighten both clamps. And make sure the 'heat riser' that is at the down pipe/header junction is not cracked and touching the pipe. That causes a higher pitched rattle. Good luck! Oh yeah....one more rattle in the exhaust system is the 'heat shield' between the final muffler and the gas tank. It rattles at low rpm (idle). It is held on by metal tabs accesible from the top near the tank. Remove the wood panel that covers the tank and you'll see the metal tabs on the left of the tank. Or, you can stuff hardware cloth between the muffler and the shield keeping it snug enough not to rattle! Thats what I did.
  16. that's it.....mmm great repro of the package. The spout looks like the plastic on the gas cans in the pic. I guess someone is jamming my machine because I couldn't get the jpg file into the transfer mode. Interesting note....on some gas pumps, the 'overflow' protection clicks the pump off if the vapor bellows aren't backed away from the plug on the metal spout. I made a metal clip from a large washer that separates the bellows from the plug and permits a small flow of vapor 'fooling' the overfil system. However, since this works without the bellows being in contact with the metal filler, it hacks the vapor recovery system and may not be acceptable with the Enviromental Laws. Anybody know this one?
  17. The product is from ' Enviro Flo' "Blitz" called appropriately 'Flex Tube' SKU 44549 81102 (www.blitzusa.com). I'll try a low-res photo I just snapped. Stand by....have to convert file from bmp into jpeg. This may take a moment. have to log off for a couple of minutes......
  18. Josh....I'll see what I can do about picture. This website hasn't permitted my picture loads so far. I'll try again!
  19. that's mighty fine metal bangin' guys but.....Kragen had a plastic spout for .99 that fit on the pump spigot....has a flexible bend in it and works like a charm....no spil. You might have to hold the vapor recovery bellows with your hand just to let the air flow......but it works great! If I had a picture of it I'd post it.
  20. Thanks TJ. I'll note SeanCasey and check him out. Here's the whole story....I have had this noisey 232 for a long time. Last march I bought another 232 on EBay. Put it in last weekend. Everything fine except it was locked in reverse gear! That's when I decided to try to rebuild the one that I removed from the car....However, yesterday I think I found out why the trans won't shift out of reverse. I'll try the fix on Monday. If it works and shifts smoothly, I'll probably just keep it in. In learing about transmissions however, I think that there are a couple of different 232's out there. The one I removed has a short shifting pattern. The one I put in has a longer shifting pattern and the R is in the bottom right corner. I kind of prefer the R in the upper left position. If it runs, i'll put the rebuild on the shelf for a while. Thanks Yes, price is an issue. I might have to save a couple of months for a pro rebuild! And pyite20v......yes, stock trans. let me see if my idea can fix this one and then we know if I need a replacement. Might be interested. Thanks.
  21. I pulled my noisy Getrag 232 out last weekend. Found metal filings on the drain plug magnet. Gear oil was moly colored. I think I have a really worn out bearing making noise. And 'floppy shifter' tabs inside gearbox probably need replacement. Anybody have a rebuilder that would look at it? Maybe do a decent job for about $250 - 300? Thanks.
  22. What I hear about CAT.... 1. A cat that is near the manifold (ie. replaces the down pipes) would heat properly....essential for the cat activity....someone is working on this....making a cat that fits in place of the down pipes. 2. If your '02 has air injection, since most cats increase the back pressure of the exhaust theyt lower the efficency of the air pump system. This could increase (!) the unburned hydrocarbon readings. 3. A cat mainly reduces unburned hydrocarbons, I have been told. Therefore if at the same time you reduce the effectiveness of the air injection system and at the same time increase the burning of unburned hyrdocarbons with a CAT you may null each other out in the smog calculation. (They're testing this I have been told.) 4. There is a manufacturer of CAT converters that has a very low back pressure. This is going to be the recommended converter for installation on '02's. More on this if I find out what company makes these and if they are going to be sold. In sum, a low back pressure CAT mounted near the exit of the hot exhaust gasses, ie., at the manifold, may help reduce HC emissions. Whether is reduces them more than the impeded air injection system does is up for grabs. If your car is failing smog you first have to comb through the major systems and make sure they are in order. Start with the carb as the other poster said and follow the jetting prescription the poster CD repeatedly posts. And then proceed to valve settings, timing, distributor advance and the other systems that your car should have. It'll probably pass without the CAT if everything is set properly!
  23. the big one on the left might be for your air conditioning. It controls the electric fan in front of the radiator. The other relays are the standard group of three....headlamp, crossover(from low to high beam) and horn left to right.
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