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PeterVarga

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  1. PeterVarga
    Anybody remember the name of this product? I was working at my friends car lot and we used a spray cleaner in a can for the battery terminals. It foamed and really cleand the top of the battery. Then, after rinsing we put a spray protectant on the posts. It was a red clear shellac and came in a spray can. They were a matched set cleaner and protecant. Can't remember what they were called or the brand name. Anybody use this stuff? I'd like to get a can of it.
  2. PeterVarga
    That blog in the tii register was illuminating. It describes what I observe on my non-Tii '02. Thanks for the reference. Oh, and from the starting activity I get in the 'start-only' setting, its already seems worth it. More power than 30 year old original starter.
  3. PeterVarga
    Installed rebuilt Bosch starter. Anyone have a diagram? It makes a difference. Car starts and runs only when in the starter part of the key swich. There is one tap on top. Then there is another that is covered with a plastic cap. Then there is a screw terminal. I think one is for a car with an external ignition relay and the other is when you need the built in ignition contactor (latching.) Wanted to make sure which is which before I started connecting things. I think I'll try to get the data sheet from vendor when I go there tomorrow. They should have included the diagram with the package when I purchased it. Dang these modern packaging techniques!
  4. PeterVarga
    i dont think that that "tie-rod puller fits on the center drag link - to steering arm b-joint (unless you cut the drag link left and right of it). A pittman arm puller might work. Or a general purpose puller. Or torch heat and a hammer. Or pickle fork on a pneumatic chisel.
  5. PeterVarga
    I ordered one from him and when it didn't arrive in the usual time I called. Nice voice from other end said it was probably lost in mail I'll send it again. Received it in less than a week. I think they have a mail issues in getting their diagrams out.
  6. PeterVarga
    make sure dwell is within range (55-59 deg.) not more and valves set at least baseline cold .008" I/O. Don't know that carb. can't help there. And make sure fuel filter isn't clogged.
  7. PeterVarga
    thanks guys. I think I'll save the inner piston in case I want to restore the original strut. But the BOGE is in the casing. I'll reinstall it next week. That AMSOIL shock therapy was the best thing I saw. And at $9.95/qt seounded about perfect. I'll bet a quart fillis it quite nicely. There's a strange, inexplicable feeling when you take the overtight strut nut to a mechanic, he breaks the seal with a pipe wrench and pours this mysterious fluid in the oil barrel.....and THEN you think that maybe you'll never be able to find replacement oil ... that's the real ha ha ha! Hey wait a minute Bruno......
  8. PeterVarga
    The final final on this one is.....there is something called silicone shock oil for motorcycles and bicycles. There is brake fluid. And there is ATF. They all work I was told. However, the preferred path is upgrage the refillable ones with an insert. The Bilstein I purchased first did not fit my hardware. Dean at Double '02 in Hayward had a Boge insert that fit. The rebuild seal kit is hard to find. And this insert p/n 1 08 91 275 230 fits perfectly.
  9. PeterVarga
    if there was gas in there with the oil it leaked out long ago! Ha Ha Ha They do look a bit more ancient than the bilstein replacement cart that the salvage yard had.....it fits inside but the top nut hole is smaller than needed.
  10. PeterVarga
    My front strut was bottoming out. I remove it and found a refillable strut. It had a light watery oil in it. I guess if I drain and refill it that returns the dampning. What oil and viscosity does it take to fill it....and how much should I put in? Silicone shock oil was recommended. 90 or 100 wt. Probably can get at motorcycle store. Or where else?
  11. PeterVarga
    Do it slowly then the springs fly out slowly and you can see where they came from. They're kind of like see-saw or rocker contacts with a pivot in the middle and small springs under each edge. The old grease holds them in place unless of course you have degreased it and then it flys apart. Do it slowly and you won't have any concerns.
  12. PeterVarga
    I agree with Mike, the previous poster. My turn signal stalk became intermittant and it was due to the internal contacts of the switch itself. When I opened it the case that is at the base of the stalk had a hairline crack in it. Enough to keep the electrical contacts from conducting the electricity. Can be repaired if you get another non cracked case and stuff the guts from the old switch into the uncracked casing.
  13. PeterVarga
    Had great luck with BaVauto. When they didn't stock a part went to 2002AD. Had great luck with them. Then went with Max. Each time small orders, little parts. Had great luck first and second time. This last time they shipped half the order and didn't indicate that the remainder was waiting in Germany. But in their defense, after a phone call, they said the part would arrive eventually and that it was coming from Germany etc. Still waiting. But somehow I believe them....when it gets into the USA they'll sent it.
  14. PeterVarga
    I received a response from SAMSTAG which was much the same as the previous poster. In essence they'll attempt location of the tool and then offier if. They'll contact us if they find it.
  15. PeterVarga
    If it helps, my '76 smogger came with a dual action distributor advance unit. There is a retard circuit that keeps the timing from advancing at when the engine is cold. This dual action system gives a broader advance than the standard unit. "the ignition on these cars is so retarded...."
  16. PeterVarga
    Paging C.D......if your putting together a group buy for that rear brake adjusting wrench....please contact me.
  17. PeterVarga
    If you're rebuilding the carb for emissions certification, I think that the only one that'll pass is the 32/36. There have been many comments throughout the last year on this BBS that praise the 38/38 and claim increased power with the same civilized idle and power curve. Jets, gaskets and rebuild kits and parts are stocked by a couple of places. And the prices are modest. The real issue and seldom talked about theme is watching your 'back' while the rebuilding process is taking place. Rubber-neckers, lookey-loos and midnight mechanics proceeding under the slogan of "I can fix that...." often intervene and sometimes without your knowing it. If you set a component correctly and someone else dismantles it for inspection and reassembles it incorrectly or with dirt in it, upon test your results may not be pleasing. It is an occupational hazard that is rarely reported due to the desire of not wanting to look like you're being vicitmized by this current plague. Having said that, what the other guy said.....it's not that difficult to do if you count your parts before and after and number or bag the little buggers so you remember where they went. The obligatory 'I have one screw left that I can't remember where it goes," modus operendi has to be put on the shelf during the rebuild process......or it's rubic's cube time.
  18. PeterVarga
    I think BaVauto has 32/36 in the box for $299. I just paid some snot to rebuild mine for $450 and it still doesn't run correctly.
  19. PeterVarga
    emissions reminder box connector. On firewall, near clutch master and brake master. this box turns on the indicators on the dash
  20. PeterVarga
    On just the Octane issue , octane is only a mesaure of resistance to predetonation and becomes important with high compression engines. I don't know what the Brits have in the gasoline since they took the tetraethyl lead out. It is rumored that in USA states with strict emissions requirements, they put a type of alcohol in with the gas for the purpose of knock retardant. I have found that my non injected '02 idles lower with the same settings with this cleaner burning gas. I haven't got a Tii but maybe there is an idle adjust screw other than the "throttle linkage stop screw." Possibly something on the pump that increases the fuel at idle. Same with timing. If set incoreccly toward the retard side the idle drops.
  21. PeterVarga
    Look at the camber of the rear wheel and compare with the other one. Unmatched springs, spacers, anti sway setting, or bent frame elements can all contribute. If the trailing arm was changed, it may be of a differnt camber. Same with the subframe, the bracket on the subframe where the trailing arm attaches is critical. Different years had differnt settings. And there are a couple out there that are from racing that might have ended at the salvage yard If you install one of those, your camber is going to be off. There are eccentric bushings for correcting this. Vendor: Top End Performance Website is www.racetep.com/kmac.html
  22. PeterVarga
    Ticking sound could be a valve improperly set as mentioned above....but it could be a high tension spark through a dirt path to ground. If it is near the distributor and after and alt upgrade, look at your spark wires and distributor cap. Every insulator must be properly seated and the ends of the plug wires screwed into their insulators. A pin hole in any of the spark wires can make that spark sound if run next to a metal ground. Dir and oil traces on the bakelite distrubutor cap can cause a short path to ground inside or outside the cap. Clean with solvent. (If there is a misfire that confirms that it may be a high tension short.)
  23. PeterVarga
    This is kind of "scavenger-ey" but a great solvent washing container can be made from the soap containers that the car wash throws out (I mean recycles.) The 5 gal polypropylene plastic (thats the milky translucent ones) resists laquer thinner (the 5 gal pails (opaque white)won't). Get the rectangular boxy one and cut a hole in the top for access to the work. It's a great parts cleaner and then you can recycle it after using it.
  24. PeterVarga
    I agree with Mike....laquer thinner, or MEK (methy elthyl Ketone) is best....but its killer on plastic. It will melt paint, plastic and dashboard/interior stuff....keep it away from anything but the workpiece aluminum. It'll melt a plastic grill....do it off the car.
  25. PeterVarga
    Maybe there was a fault in the wiring that caused the first alt to bite the dust and it brought down the replacement alt. Typically a short (or an open). Get a meter and "what he said".... start with the battery....then, if it has a regualtor in it, did you remove the external reg? You might not be getting "exitation" at your field windings. Just a thought.
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