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PeterVarga

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  1. PeterVarga
    follow the previous post. Also, if there is in/out play you can remove the slack by putting a preload on the steering 'guibo'. Untighten one bolt that clamps the steering rod and pull(push) the steering column toward forward or pull(expand - therby getting preload) the rear side of the guibo toward the rear of the car. Then tighten the clamping bolt. The tension that this produces between the steering box and the steering wheel along the steering column (rod) pulls it tightly into a firmer position.
  2. PeterVarga
    ...that was it. I looked at the Primary idel jet. It was cracked! Next step, get on the internet and order a replacement! Thanks again.
  3. PeterVarga
    thanks.....I'll look at the idle circuit.
  4. PeterVarga
    i took apart a broken heater valve and the inner valve member and the outer valve member had delaminated. resulted in no flow ie. closed most of the time. if you can, remove the brass screws on the housing and make sure that the inner vanes are moving in sync. then make sure your activator arm is coordinated with the inner workings of the valve.
  5. PeterVarga
    the idle cutoff solenoid (gulp valve) on your carb might need cleaning. Or maybe the wire fell off.
  6. PeterVarga
    Well, Squeeky passed smog so that means the jets in the Weber DGV are supposed to be proper. 140 Main, 170 Air Corrector. She runs smooth but after warm-up each time I acelerate from STOP there is a lunging or lurching until she gets to about 1500-2000 rpm. When the choke is still active (before it is warm) there is no problem. Perfect smooth acceleration. When I first bought her there was no problem. Somehow it crept in when someone adjusted something. Does the fact that it runs fine when the choke is on mean it gets overly lean when warm. How to correct? Larger main jets, smaller air correctors, valve adjustment. Its got to be something relatively simple since it was working fine a couple of years ago. Any suggestions. I'll bet this is a classic carb trouble shoot for an experienced old timer. Thanks
  7. PeterVarga
    I was told the procedure for timing is: Advance vacuum hose remove temporarily and plug. Engine off, verify 0 deg. TDC with piston on compression stroke. Sync on plug #1 w/ timing light and look for mark at 2800 RPM. Should be 25 deg. BTDC. Retard hose remains connected during this proceduer. Is this correct? Thanks, Peter
  8. PeterVarga
    I had this for a while. I thought it was sludge in the tank that blocked the filtetr. Low RPM fine, choked on accel and more RPM. Turned out to be the points. The points were burned through and the metal that supported the contact had melted. Talk about pitted!. True story. Put in correct points, and condenser. Worked fine after that. A month later when the idel got crappy I sprayed carb cleaner through the jets and float/bowl. Cleanted it out and worked. What I have found is that since everything is fuel injected these days....only certain mechanics know how to fix carb'd engines.
  9. PeterVarga
    Had my odo fixed for $114 US at PaloAlto Speedometer. Took a week. After that, the speedo ran 5mph more than actual. Was told that a calibration spring inside could adjust this. Looked inside, there is a hairspring with the end wedged in a slot. Slightly larger than the spring in a watch. Impossible to adjust unless you have a tool to remove speedo pointer to reveal innerds, then microclamp to remove wedge, tighten spring end through slot about 1mm and then reinstall clamping wedge. You really need watchmaker tools and an extremely steady hand. But it was an interesting adventure through the speedo part of the gauges! They told me that there was a 'modern' calibration point and that having them recalibrate the speedo would yield the same result....given my final drive ratio....
  10. PeterVarga
    I forgot that one. I guess then the wheel is lobsided at the half point....then I'll adj the coupler one click. I think that's what it is. One spline off.
  11. PeterVarga
    Well, the final final on this is Mike was correct....the headlamp switch has a couple of plastic fittings that hold the connectors. The .187" fastons are held in that fixture and lock on the switch. Plus there is one outside lug with the same connector on it. Therefore, the E12 (530i) headlamp switch fits in the E10 (2002) lamp connector. (maybe that's why the part nos. are the same!) I sure hope the dimmer isn't ohmic as in the older one....the panel is much too dim even with fresh bulbs.
  12. PeterVarga
    Thinking about making a tool (or some kind of jig) that indicates when the Pitman arm is perfectly centered.....anybody done this? Sort of like a protractor that places against the mounting bolts of the steering gear and has a stick at square angle with an index mark for the main connecting bolt....Could then could then tell when the steering wheel was exactly centered.
  13. PeterVarga
    .....duh......as a final note, I compared part numbers for the lamp switch on a 530i and an '02 same year and it lists the same number. It be interesting to find out what it is when I pull it out of its mounting.
  14. PeterVarga
    Just got one from EBay. Its clean....but I'm not sure if it fits. The press-on connectors are smaller than I remember last time I had it apart. I'll have to open the console and look. But thanks, if this one doesn't fit, I'll reply.... I'll try and look at it this weekend. ....... It might just be a one piece connector that connects all the wires at once .....as Mike (above) mentioned....thanks.
  15. PeterVarga
    Obtained a salvage headlamp switch from an E12 (5 series I think.) Wondering if anyone knows if it fits an E10 2002 ('76). It looks very much the same but the electrical connections are small (5mm.) I can't remember seeing any connector (quick disconnect type) that is this size in my '02. They all seem the 7mm size. Anybody know?
  16. PeterVarga
    The Zerex website lists GO-5 coolant. It is described as a much lighter formulation with just a tint of yellow color. Its glycol based with anti-corosion additives for increased protection of aluminum engine parts.
  17. PeterVarga
    Questions:
  18. PeterVarga
    ...without specifying your DMM techniques, find out why there is no indication on the gauge when you ground the body of the sender. Verify that your ignition is 'on.' Wire brush the sender threads to remove any coatings that may interfere with your ground. Remember, a gasketed oil filter billet may be intermittent to ground. It depends on bolt head contact with the body and thread contact with the engine. Make sure bolts are secure into block...despite that the other gauges are functioning. If the sender gives a 100 ohm value when out of the mount (I'd recheck this.) the gauge should indicate. Otherwise, there is an intermittent preventing it from registering. If you're still stumped, wrap or clip a wire from the body of the sender and connect to a known ground. If it works properly, then the mount is suspect.
  19. PeterVarga
    water in the fuel?
  20. PeterVarga
    Maybe non-OEM-bottom-of-the-strut bolts. I heard that a trick when reinstalling your struts is put in hex-cap bolts with hex driver on socket. Not proper but simplifies installation. PO might not have had proper bolts. But, seeing as there are 15 I vote for the sway-bar mounts.
  21. PeterVarga
    Make sure the double filament indicator/park bulbs are not blown, and INSTALLED the correct direction. They are 5w/21w twin bulbs. The lower watt is for park, and the higher watt is for turnSig. Then make sure each lamp is grounded properly to the metal of the body. the securing screws make the connection, clean out the crud and paint, rust whatever. Test if indicator shows proper functioning. If there is sufficient surface rust that cant be removed, you may want the overkill method of bringing separate ground wires from each turn fixture to a spot inside the fender. Then you'll know yer grounded!
  22. PeterVarga
    Thanks for sharing!
  23. PeterVarga
    Thanks for the offer. First I'm going to try to put the spring back in them. Then we'll see.
  24. PeterVarga
    check your in line fuel filters....maybe blocked.
  25. PeterVarga
    Response for CK....Thanks for the URL....If I remember correctly, I removed the entire unit, inspected it and the end slots were not deformed, just dirt and paint. They were 'normal' to the mount and therefore changing them end for end didn't affect the preload in either direction. And the strange thing is that when I got the car, they worked fine. I think they just fatigued. I don't think they got swapped out. I guess the last resort fix is have the foundry heat them and reset their offset and quench them. But how did they fatigue in the first place!
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