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PeterVarga

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  1. PeterVarga
    Final final on that is that they pulled the old swicheroo.....Bought the transmission on EBay last March. Noticed the pin missing. Sitting it must have gotten swapped! I took it to the garage this morning and the pin was in it. Also noticed that it didn't have a bell housing that could be removed without the rest of the gear box. And, the pin is mounted in the end plate of the gearbox next to the bearings. Hotting up the surrounds of the pin might probably destroy the bearing. Have to do it while building the trans with the bearings out of the case. Learned somthing!
  2. PeterVarga
    When I swap my trans this weekend, I'll have to remove the release bearing lever support (aka 'Ball-Pin'). It doesn't look like it has threads in the drawings. What is the best method to remove this from the old trans and install in the replacement. It is #7 on drawing 23/2 and has a part no. of 21 51 1 202 467. Thanks..... Edit1: Let me add that this pin is missing from the replacement tranny. The one thats getting pulled has it in it. I was told to remove it from the one that getting removed and install it in the rebuilt one before I reinsall it. It looks like it is a pin in a hole with friction fit but I won't know until I remove it. I could buy a new one but they're $75 bucks! Edit2: If there isn't a better method, I'll just remove the bell housing from the original transmission and mount it with the pin on the replacement. QED.
  3. PeterVarga
    I don't know which starter you have installed but the BOSCH replacement is wired a bit differently. If I remember correctly, the ground path is through the block, the HOT is from the large cable (battery +) and there is one solenoid wire (not two). There is an informative page either in the FAQ's on this BBS or on the Tii Registry board. I think you end up with one unused wire that should be taped off.
  4. PeterVarga
    Can anyone survey the differences in the length of replacment E - Brake cables? Seems every one I purchase is about 1.5 cm longer than it should be. I can put spacers on the threaded parts but then the studs are longer than they should be. The last one I got said it fits to 12/75. My car was made in '76. It seems that there are a couple of lengths out there?
  5. PeterVarga
    Thanks again. I found the shop manual and it had a maximum permissable play spec. "Axial play for shaft is 0.5 - 1.0 mm" I think they mean the input shaft. This one is less than the 1.0 mm spc. Therefore I'll just install it as it is. Thanks for comments.
  6. PeterVarga
    Gracer ... thanks. Since there are no issues with the output shaft, I think I'll try replacing the input bearing/seal and hope for slight improvement. Sounds as if you have much experience. I do not have a set of proper transmission tools.
  7. PeterVarga
    Thanks. What you're saying is that for the slight wiggle in the iinput shaft replacing the bearing and seal is enough. The internal 'needle cage' is probably in decent shape. From the drawings it is not clear if the synchro assembly at the end of the input shaft can be removed through the bearing arpeture in the case or if the shaft is clipped in place and requires complete disassembly for replacement.
  8. PeterVarga
    I repaired my dash cracks about 4 years ago and they are just ready for touch-ups. Super-glue works best. Mask off the vinyl surrounding the crack with masking tape. Coat the inside of the crack with super glue. While drying, keep the vinyl on each side of the crack from curling upward with a popsickle stick gently pushi it down. When dry, fill in void with a type of filler. Hobby shop 'microspheres' is compatable with super glue. Several applications may be needed to bring level to top. Let dry. With find grit sand paper glued to wooden backing (like another popsickle stick) sand top when dry. Then apply color to match dash. I used black paint and a dabbing cloth. Let dry. Lasted 4-5 years. Most important.....shield dash from sun. Either a window reflector or dash mat. If it sits in the sun it'll crack quicker.
  9. PeterVarga
    Has anyone done this before? The input shaft on my tranny has a bit of wobble in it. Before I install it, I'd like to pull the input shaft and replace the bearing, seal and needle cage. Any tips? The rest of the transmission is decent enough. Comments please.
  10. PeterVarga
    Palo Alto Speedometer replaced the trip odo for about a 'hun. They did an excellent job. I think they replaced it with a freshly rebuilt unit. They are in Palo Alto, California, near San Francisco.
  11. PeterVarga
    Just a note saying thanks for the work well done. JP and his mechanic at A-1 Imports re-jetted my 32/36 Weber and 'Squeeky' passed its biannual smog test with flying colors. .... and has a bit more power to boot. Thanks Guys!
  12. PeterVarga
    I found the "middle ground" on the turn signal innerds of my '76 switch. For the high/low beam section that is. There is a larger contact bar that goes crosswise and is springy. Between it and the bakelite cover there is a contact. Bending it fixed the problem. Maybe it'll fix yours. Good Luck. Oh, incidentally, EBay often lists turn signal switches for our cars. They can be had often for $25 or thereabouts.
  13. PeterVarga
    that looks like the motor mount at the bottom. yes. the older starters were much larger than the BOSCH you're putting in. Doesn't really matter since they both fit. Just more power in smaller device. And the extra room makes better working in that part of the engine. I don't think you need to remove the motor mount, just clean it with a solvent rag from the oil and make sure it's tighten. Look for cracks in the rubber etc. The improvement in the starter is really worth it. Good Luck. Don't know regarding the four bolt pattern on the dipstick mount. I think every one I've seen pictures of in the parts books has that mounting plate with that pattern on it. Maybe someone else knows.
  14. PeterVarga
    It indeed looks as if the third contact arm has broken off. Did it fall out of the housing when you opened it? A contact arm broken at that bend is difficult to fix. You could find a parts donor motor and exchange the entire contact plate. Or, if you can afford it, get a fresh wiper motor. They can be found at the parts houses and of course on EBay occasionally. Or ask around this site. Someone may have one that they want to donate.
  15. PeterVarga
    (nt)
  16. PeterVarga
    ...yeah, what they said...remove water bottle if on top of brake master cylinder, remove air cleaner housing. Remove dipstick tube and dipstick. Even remove air cleaner bracket if you have round style air cleaner. If smog hoses in way mark them and tie out of the way with tape. And you really should put rags or paper over the open carb barrels and dipstick hole incase you drop mounting hardware......you may have to remove the water inlet(outlet) hose near the top of the bell housing to get a wrench over the bolt that holds the starter on. Clean bolts when out and probably should put medium strength locktite on when reassemble. You don't want your starter bolt vibrating off! It's a do-able project if you remove the stuff in the way first.
  17. PeterVarga
    Don't forget the internal contacts in the wiper-motor-gearbox assembly at the bot of the windshield. There is a 'continue running until the wiper is in the resting position' contact. If corroded, it never disconnects causing constant over ride of stalk switch, and relay functions. It sounds like that needs cleaning. I think removal of the wiper moter, open the housing and clean with CFC type contact cleaner. Clean the contact brushes and reassemble, test. Maybe just a shot of contact spray through a hole in the housing might clean it enough making it work again.
  18. PeterVarga
    (nt)
  19. PeterVarga
    Need M4 x .70 pitch slotted screw for points hold down in distributor. This is the typical late model BMW 2002 distributor. I have one but it is rusty and I want a clean shiny one. Anybody have one )or a couple) for sale? Thanks, Reasonable price plus shipping offered if you got one. ______________ P.S. I have one on order from a BMW dealership but they say it has to come from the MotherLand...ie. Germany. That may take a while. FYI...It is part of the distributor hardware kit for about $15. P.P.S. The part arrived and while it is a clean M4 it is phillips style slot not flathead slotted, and the top is rounded not flat as the OEM screw. Therefore still looking. Mike sent screws that are fine in the interim while looking for a new one.
  20. PeterVarga
    The second item ("horn contactor pin") is obtainable from Maximillian. I bought one for a '76 a year ago for about $17.
  21. PeterVarga
    Since you can find replacements for the broken support arm through salvage houses or even replacment parts vendors that is the best route. They're not overpriced yet. Even the tension springs are findable....in fact, put a request on the PARTS WANTED section of this BBS and I'll bet somebody has one for a reasonable cost. If its broken it probably is rusted and welding migh fix it but it won't stop the rust. You wouldn't want the hood falling on anyone working in the engine bay due to a corroded hood support part. Get a fresh one!
  22. PeterVarga
    Thanks, Mike...package arrived today.
  23. PeterVarga
    Mike: Let's call it a deal. I'll put $30 M/O in mail today or tomorrow. My address, in case you want to address it before you receive the pmt. is: Peter Varga The Mission Hotel #248 520 S. Van Ness Ave. San Francisco, CA 94110 Thanks! Pete
  24. PeterVarga
    Whoa! Mr. MonsterMike: Them's they.....Yeah, I love southern CA....but livin in San Frisco. I was thinking if I send you a money order or PayPal for $20 would that cover it? Peter
  25. PeterVarga
    Looking for one or better two license plate lamp housing plastic lamp covers for my '76 2002. I have a crome one and a silver painted one and I want them to match. The old one was cracked and leaking water. Don't want to buy complete lamp sets at this moment. EMail PeterVarga1953@juno.com Thanks.
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